Having recently "mostly" finished working on my friends 1974 Mercury Capri we find that the 5 speed conversion ( T5 trans) works OK but the clutch action via a OEM style cable is not user friendly. I'm using a Mustang II bell housing that bolts up to the 2.8L V6 along with the stock clutch linkage inside of the bell.
I'm now thinking of going with a hydraulic set up since other then mounting the cylinder to the clutch pedal I can use all OEM parts. The early 2000's V6 Mustangs had a hydro set up and I have a Camaro T5 input shaft bearing retainer where the OEM slave cylinder mounted on that model car.
What I am a bit confused about is do some clutch masters require being pulled and some are pushed like a brake master?
I have never worked on a car that had this system, my last two daily drivers having this set up.
I do have a friend who I can consult as he converted two different cars to hydro set ups. Both were auto before.
I've never seen a clutch master cylinder that was pulled by the clutch pedal, instead of pushed like a brake master. When talking about clutches, pull-style vs. push-style is always referring to whether the release bearing pushes or pulls on the pressure plate fingers.
What's the problem you need to solve with your setup? Can you not find a master cylinder that will work with the factory pedal?
It's exactly like a brake system. The push/pull part comes from how the clutch diaphragm is operated. A push style clutch typically "inflates" the throwout bearing which pushes on the diaphragm springs to disengage the clutch. Pull style does the opposite.
T5s (I think) typically use a push style.
I'm using a push style slave cylinder actuating a stock style clutch fork on my T5 bellhousing (between my 351 Cleveland and my TKO-600) though I've seen others using a pull style cylinder on that same bellhousing.. My slave cylinder acts on the rear of the clutch fork. The pull style slave cylinders mount and act on the front side of the clutch fork. The direction of travel is the same in both cases just different mounting location for the slave cylinder.
I guess my question was not clear. I understand how the hydro set up pushes on the pressure plate. I've seen that end of a number of transmissions, what I haven't seen that much of is the clutch pedal end. Is there two different ways to generate fluid flow? Pushing on the pedal like a brake pedal is want I would expect but some set ups I've seen connect to the pedal and are pulled not pushed or at least that's the was it seems to appear in the pictures I've seen on line.
In reply to jimbbski :
All clutch master cylinders work by "pushing". Some are just mounted very, very oddly.
Sonic
UberDork
10/6/21 5:50 p.m.
Pete. (l33t FS) said:
In reply to jimbbski :
All clutch master cylinders work by "pushing". Some are just mounted very, very oddly.
Yup, this. For example, I converted my 89 Civic from a cable clutch to hydraulic as part of a K swap that needed it. To make it work I made a bracket on the pedal cluster that adapted a 95 Civic clutch master but it was backwards, facing towards the driver. The reason was that the stock pedal was made to pull a cable and had a C shaped opening in the top to pull on the cable, so putting the clevis pin of the pushrod of the clutch master in this same C the stock pedal would push into the master with no change to the pedal itself. It worked great once I pressure bled it.
Sonic said:
Pete. (l33t FS) said:
In reply to jimbbski :
All clutch master cylinders work by "pushing". Some are just mounted very, very oddly.
Yup, this. For example, I converted my 89 Civic from a cable clutch to hydraulic as part of a K swap that needed it. To make it work I made a bracket on the pedal cluster that adapted a 95 Civic clutch master but it was backwards, facing towards the driver. The reason was that the stock pedal was made to pull a cable and had a C shaped opening in the top to pull on the cable, so putting the clevis pin of the pushrod of the clutch master in this same C the stock pedal would push into the master with no change to the pedal itself. It worked great once I pressure bled it.
That's what I most likely will have to do as there is very little room where the clutch cable enters the car. I do think I can mount it under the dash and operate it as you did. Thanks, I think I'm clear on how this set up works. I now need to figure out what parts I can use.
In reply to Sonic :
From what I have seen, this is how right hand drive Audi ur-quattros worked. The clutch master was in the dashboard like a Vanagon.
No room under the hood because some dingus put an engine on that side of the engine bay 
