My daughter's step-dad just traded in his Cherokee with over 250,000 miles. No heat or A/C, but the engine still ran well. He cried when it left.
My daughter's step-dad just traded in his Cherokee with over 250,000 miles. No heat or A/C, but the engine still ran well. He cried when it left.
My son had a 99 Cherokee that had 140K on it when he sold it. Completely reliable and basically simple. So I am looking for another one now for a winter/tow vehicle. I love the fact that it's pretty basic. Prices are low now and good ones can still be found. In fact it may be the Miata of the truck world. 
sorry to thread jack, but how would it be to take a 2wd cherokee, turbo it, drop it and use it for racing?
I had a '90 XJ 5-speed 2-door.....power windows...well, they worked occasionally. Interior was about the worst-quality thing I've ever seen. Dash looked like it was designed in the 50s. Tranny was solid, as is the TC and the Dana 30/35s....unless you plan to hardcore offroad. Climate control was a joke, and mine worked perfectly...and still could not sufficiently heat or cool the car.
BUT....it was a RENIX....DAMN RENIX!!!!!! After multiple issues with insane idle, low idle, and other ...and trying every known fix out there from every Jeep forum, Jeep club, and jeep buddy out there, I finally gave up and got rid of it.
I would run away fom a Renix XJ, though I may get another XJ one day (newer, non-renix one). XJs are fun little trucks, are tough as hell, easy to work on (generally) and parts are inexpensive as hell..
neon4891 wrote: sorry to thread jack, but how would it be to take a 2wd cherokee, turbo it, drop it and use it for racing?
I hope you're not serious. Maybe ok for drag.....even a stock I6 XJ 5-speed is pretty quick. My 4x4 XJ on 31s and stock engine still managed to get the jump on various sportscars at stoplights and surprise them :)
But the gearing would need to be changed, the vehicle still handles like crap, and....well.....why?
I certianly wouldn't think even extensive mods could make it more than half-decent for any kind of racing with turning or braking involved...
What is Renix?
The only thing my buddy had go wrong with his '89 (240,000 miles) was a wore out timing chain & timing gears. That was it other than general maintenance and some stuff that's already been mentioned.
I'll also say that the thing was fast as hell and got decent mileage.
Renix = Renault's godawful sequential fuel injection and ignition control system.
There is no code reader for it except from Renault, try finding one.
When it works, it's fine. When it goes bad you're in for an hour with a multimeter to find the failed parts.
BTW the crank sensor could have been mounted at the crank pulley or anwhere on the generous, open, inline six bellhousing. They put it behind the cylinder head at the top of the bellhousing, there's no room to work back there and you can't see what you're doing.
When I had to change my CPS I did it from under the truck, on top of the transmission with about 3 feet of extension bars and a wobble joint.
Shawn
Trans_Maro wrote: Renix = Renault's godawful sequential fuel injection and ignition control system. There is no code reader for it except from Renault, try finding one. When it works, it's fine. When it goes bad you're in for an hour with a multimeter to find the failed parts. BTW the crank sensor could have been mounted at the crank pulley or anwhere on the generous, open, inline six bellhousing. They put it behind the cylinder head at the top of the bellhousing, there's no room to work back there and you can't see what you're doing. When I had to change my CPS I did it from under the truck, on top of the transmission with about 3 feet of extension bars and a wobble joint. Shawn
Yeah, the CPS is a pain and I had to get at it on my '93 with the same setup as you. But, to its credit, some of the nuts/bolts in the same area of the Miata are nearly as difficult IIRC. I got mine for free from a guy on Craigslist because he thought the CPS was bad and didn't want to deal with it. Turns out he was right and I got a great running vehicle for the cost of the CPS (about $40) and the hour it took to install it. With the extensions and the wobbly joint, it really wasn't THAT bad and I've been able to enjoy it as my DD for four years now. BTW, non-Renix models from '91 to ('97? I think) don't need a scanner for trouble codes. You read the codes from the flashing "check engine" light.
neon4891 wrote: sorry to thread jack, but how would it be to take a 2wd cherokee, turbo it, drop it and use it for racing?
beam front axle
Can these things be "un-Renixed" using later 4.0 HO parts? I'm not talking about going with an MSquirt or anything like that, just updating to the more reliable MoPar stuff, and not having some massive project out of it.
pres589 wrote: Can these things be "un-Renixed" using later 4.0 HO parts? I'm not talking about going with an MSquirt or anything like that, just updating to the more reliable MoPar stuff, and not having some massive project out of it.
I would think that as cheap as the 4.0 HO jeeps are, it wouldn't be worth the effort. Just buy the one you want from the beginning.
What are the Renix years, so they might be avoided?
I believe Renix is 90 and earlier, as all '91 and later 4.0s are HO with the newer fuel injection setup.
HO heads are also different, a Renix 4.0 intake and a HO intake will not interchange.
Shawn
just get the 4.0 HO.. You get an extra 15-20 hp and just plain better engineering.
so which is the best year?
reliability, power...
smog7 wrote: so which is the best year? reliability, power...
whatever is cheap.
My '89 Comanche Eliminator 2wd with the 4.0 and 5-speed was the fastest compact pickup in production until the Syclone/Typhoon came along.
I did grow to loathe it and all it's problems though.
Based on how many people I know have had XJ and MJ series vehicles and have had great results, I'd be willing to bet that I bought the one made at 4:30 on Friday.
Shawn
I blew up the 4 liter in my wife's jeep once...
We have them at work for patrol cars. They get abused for two shifts a day, hold a trunk full of crap, and are quicker off the line than the should be. They are being phased out and replaced by Escapes and Priuses. Most guys are reluctant to let them go as they don't have to avoid potholes and curbs like they do the newer flimsyier cars. While it it is against our rules, I have seen more than one push a stalled bus out of traffic.
They aren't perfect but they are definitely a Grassroots type SUV. They don't have any bells and whistles, they just work. The 4.0 has a lot of usable torque and they are light (under 3,000 lbs for the 2wd). The chassis isn't wonderfully stiff but they can be made to handle quite well with some decent tires and sway bars. My '88 was a little sport truck for me in highschool.
Someone should definitely turn one into a Challenge car.
smog7 wrote: so which is the best year? reliability, power...
I'd say the newer the better. Preferably '97 or newer (Slight body change and updated interior) Wiki has a pretty good write up with different stats.
I put a 88 short block in my 93 with all the 93 head and efi seemed peppier than before.
stan_d wrote: I put a 88 short block in my 93 with all the 93 head and efi seemed peppier than before.
That's because of the different EFI system and the fact that you went to the H.O. head.
You'll need to log in to post.
