Learn me mazda5 service

So i need to pay attention to the wifes 2006 mazda5. Its using a bit of oil (1quart/1k) sway bar rattles, and brake squeaky. 

In doing some research, i found that a bad pcv, or stuck rings normally cause oil consumption in these.

So im going to do both.

Soaking the cylenders in carb cleaner is simple enough.  Picked up some b12 chemtool for that job.

But how the berk do i get to tge pcv valve? Near as i can tell I'll have to pull the intake. Gotta ve an easier way. Solutions?

Squak turns out to be rear rotors are visibly warped. At least 1/8 of runout at the edge of the disc. I have no idea how it happened, so no ideas how to fix it.

Sway bars should be simple enough on the rear. Havent looked at the front though. How bad is it?

replace them with speed3 parts.

Dusterbd13 said:

So i need to pay attention to the wifes 2006 mazda5. Its using a bit of oil (1quart/1k) sway bar rattles, and brake squeaky. 

In doing some research, i found that a bad pcv, or stuck rings normally cause oil consumption in these.

So im going to do both.

Soaking the cylenders in carb cleaner is simple enough.  Picked up some b12 chemtool for that job.

But how the berk do i get to tge pcv valve? Near as i can tell I'll have to pull the intake. Gotta ve an easier way. Solutions?

Squak turns out to be rear rotors are visibly warped. At least 1/8 of runout at the edge of the disc. I have no idea how it happened, so no ideas how to fix it.

Sway bars should be simple enough on the rear. Havent looked at the front though. How bad is it?

Mazda discontinued it- but a Ford pcv tool from the same era focus 2.3 will work. You just have to convince a parts guy to order it. 

In reply to Dusterbd13 :

Real talk- it's an absolute berkeleying nightmare. You have to disconnect the engine mounts and drop the subframe. Expect at least 6 hours to do the front bar. Maybe an hour to do the rear. Save yourself a E36 M3load of trouble and buy a t handle hex, (I think 7mm? Maybe 8. I don't remember) and count on replacing the endlinks. If you get them off once, you will never get them off again without a torch, and aftermarket ones are the correct answer. I have hotchkis bars and awr links in my car. I've done multiple suspensions on this platform, I still remember most of the tricks. 

My original post SHOULD have said sway bar bushings.  This thing is her appliance and the family car. Therefore stone stock for all time.

Does that change the nightmare status on the front?

And pcv tool: does it save me pulling the intake?

In reply to Dusterbd13 :

Pcv took turns a 5 hour job (pulling that main is only slightly less painful than the fsb) into a 30min. Theres a reason Mazda wouldn't sell me one. They want the book labor. 

Bushings make it marginally less painful.  I don't remember if you can thread the new ones in without dropping the frame. 

Front sway bar bushings are doable without dropping the subframe, I did it on my in laws 5.  Not that bad of a job.  Do the endlinks at the same time as they are probably on the way out, and are a weak point.   Rear sway bushings are also not hard, that bar is right at the bottom.  

Yes, PCV involves pulling the intake 

In reply to Mndsm :

Any idea on a ford part number?

Ill go ahead and order the end links

And apparently a valve cover gasket.  Its leaking. 

Is there a good how to onthe pcv valve?

Sorry, just dredged this up. No, theres never been a p/n I can find. Anyone u know that's ever had one knew a guy who knew a guy. I'll look some and see.