Taiden wrote: Well, I think that I will clear out the garage, nail down a stock subaru as a daily, and snag this MGB. Although, if anyone wants to keep posting ideas in this thread, I would really appreciate it. 12b swaps need not applyI'd like to keep this one original
There are some worth while upgrades to consider. For instance,the rubber bushings for the leaf spring shackles allow for more lateral movement of the axle than I like and the castor kind of sucks with radial tires.
Oh, yeah, you need that. It should make the boat look cheap and easy. Says the guy with 4 Loti.
My friend's ex-wife had one. He said every time he drove it, it cost him one thousand dollars. Have phun.
Dr. Hess wrote: Oh, yeah, you need that. It should make the boat look cheap and easy. Says the guy with 4 Loti. My friend's ex-wife had one. He said every time he drove it, it cost him one thousand dollars. Have phun.
Sounds like the costs had more to do with the wife than the car. 
MG Bryan wrote:Dr. Hess wrote: Oh, yeah, you need that. It should make the boat look cheap and easy. Says the guy with 4 Loti. My friend's ex-wife had one. He said every time he drove it, it cost him one thousand dollars. Have phun.Sounds like the costs had more to do with the wife than the car.
Doesn't it always?
mguar wrote: ,.. Most ignorant Americans think the solution to fuel pump failure is to beat it with a stick..
...While most properly bred Oxford graduates know to smear the fuel pump with marmalade and crumpets....Then have your butler tow it with the Land Rover.
Wait until you're through with college. This will be a project no matter what. I have had the same '69 MG Midget since I was 13 (now 36), and it has always been a project. I didn't take it to college with me, and that probably saved me.
When you're a jr. engineer making $60k/year, then get it and have fun.
If you're going to run a vintage car, you probably can't find one that will be cheaper than a free MGB. Moss has some excellent parts diagrams and they don't exactly have a lot of mysteries anymore. There are other supplier such as the B Hive that will beat Moss prices by about 20%. There are a very large number of parts cars too.
My old LR was positive earth. Took about 10 minutes to switch it to negative. It's simple.
Like I said, I have been playing with these for over 30 years. Parts are easier to get for an MG that for a new domestic.
People drive these in from all over North America for the mettings. And they do drive them.
Even without the overdrive gear, there is no issue on a 75 mph cruise. Gonna be more noise than you are used to in a new car, but not a probelm for the car.
Nothing rare about the positive earth. No reason to change over to nevative. I seem to only get 20 years or so out of a generator and then I have to put in a set of $5 brushes.
I am not a fan of the 3 synchro transmission. However, if it has been re-built, good chance you will get 50k out of it. Would not be surprised if the car has overdrive considering the spec it was restored to. Also not sure why people are suggesting you need to part out a car with less than perfect door fit? If I read correctly, it is rust free, fully restored, with a door(s) that close tight. So it aint concourse material. drive it like you stole it.
NOHOME wrote: Like I said, I have been playing with these for over 30 years. Parts are easier to get for an MG that for a new domestic.
That's hyperbole. I can literally walk down the street and get GM parts. The closest place that stocks MG parts is ~12 miles away.
NOHOME wrote: Even without the overdrive gear, there is no issue on a 75 mph cruise. Gonna be more noise than you are used to in a new car, but not a probelm for the car.
BTDT. Sure the car is perfectly capable of it. High speed interstate cruising isn't the MGB's forte though.
NOHOME wrote: Nothing rare about the positive earth. No reason to change over to nevative. I seem to only get 20 years or so out of a generator and then I have to put in a set of $5 brushes.
I completely disagree. There are plenty of reasons to change over. I had a modern radio in my 66 for a while, and having converted it to negative earth meant I could simply instal the radio and be done with it.
NOHOME wrote: I am not a fan of the 3 synchro transmission. However, if it has been re-built, good chance you will get 50k out of it. Would not be surprised if the car has overdrive considering the spec it was restored to. Also not sure why people are suggesting you need to part out a car with less than perfect door fit? If I read correctly, it is rust free, fully restored, with a door(s) that close tight. So it aint concourse material. drive it like you stole it.
Before the chassis issues were actually explained, I had ASSumed that the car wasn't rust free. A poor quality resto has a tendency to return to rust pretty quickly. A free, non-running, rusty, poorly restored would be a parts candidate. A car that is otherwise solid, I agree, is a driver. And yeah, the 3 synchro sucks.
So assuming that this thing was in 8/10 overall condition when it was put in a garage 25 years ago, what would definitely need to be done after 25 years of storage?
How well do you want it to run?
-Carb rebuild kit (x2)
-new points/condenser
-fuel pump work
-radiator
-hoses
-rubber fuel lines
-brake hoses
-brake calipers/rear slaves
-brake master cylinder
-brake lines?
-clutch master cylinder
-top
-oil change
-fuel lines?
-fuel tank?
-any number of electrical items
-tires/tubes
-valve adjustment
These are "probably" assuming it was garaged the whole time. If outside, I'd say they are "absolutely", but closer inspection will reveal the truth. You can do them all, assuming they're buggered, or you can do them one at a time as they fail, and bitch about your "unreliable" MG, to parrot the old cliche. Oh, and there is likely rust on the cylinder walls, so when you turn it over the first time, you might bugger the rings.
Dude, I loves me some MG, but this is going to cost you some serious money and time to get operational. There's no such thing as free.
But there's still such a thing as a good deal :) I'd get it home and start investigating. We can imagine all sorts of problems, but only someone in the presence of the car can really evaluate it.
I have a free Lucas fuel pump for you if you want it. And probably some other MG stuff I didn't offload with my parts car.
Poached from an article that I believe was penned from the late great Tony Barnhill...
And since this site does ot do formating worth a darn, here is a link to the original text... http://tidentenn.com/pdf/AWAKENING%20A%20SLEEPING%20MGB%20CHECKLIST.pdf
AWAKENING A SLEEPING MGB CHECKLIST So, let's wake her up: _ Put the car on 4 jack stands & remove wheels. If there was an old battery in her, remove it to use as a core for a new battery. ENGINE COMPARTMENT _ Disconnect fuel lines at carbs. Remove spark plugs & turn engine over by hand checking for compression at each spark plug hole (I'm not interested in the amount of compression, just that I still have it!). _ Install new battery (DO NOT ATTEMPT TO START ENGINE!). Turn ignition key on & allow fuel pump to drain any gas remaining in the tank (&, in the event you didn't drain it before laying car up, you'll probably have 'dead' gas in there.) _ If fuel pump doesn't operate, stop & rebuild fuel pump and repeat process of draining gas tank. While you're under there, replace all flexible gas lines to fuel pump. Adjust valves. _ Change engine oil and filter. (In cold months, I use 10W-40 Castrol; in warm months, I use 20W-50 Castrol.) Install new, properly gapped spark plugs. _ Rebuild distributor (if electronic, check manual closely). Install new spark plug wires. _ Check the ignition circuit for proper operation (AGAIN: DO NOT ATTEMPT TO START ENGINE! At this point, all I want to know is if I have 'fire' at the plugs.) Drain all fluids (radiator, engine, transmission, rear end, brakes/clutch) _ Inspect radiator for signs of leakage (the proper way to store a radiator is with anti-freeze inside; you can tell if there's been any leakage by the tell-tale wierd, green patina on the core or along the edges of the tanks.). If there are signs of leakage, remove radiator for cleaning, pressurizing, and repair. Back flush the engine cooling system to remove any built-up crud. _ Replace engine thermostat. Remove the plug in the water pump & add a bit of grease. _ Remove all belts from front of engine. Bench check alternator/generator for proper operation. _ With proper spray cleaner & one of GEM Enterprises' special purpose brushes, clean all Lucas wiring harness connectors. Once cleaned, coat them with a LIGHT film of conductive grease (I mean every one you can see with the hood up! Take 'em apart & clean both ends of the bullet connectors). Pay especially close attention to the fuse block. Replace all belts with new ones and reinstall alternator/generator. _ Reinstall the radiator along with all new hoses. Fill windshield washer tank. _ Refill the cooling system with the proper mixture of water and anti-freeze. Remove carbs & rebuild/clean them as necessary. Replace air filters. _ Inspect engine mounts & replace as necessary. Replace all fuel/vacuum lines in engine compartment. _ Replace fuel filter. If so equipped, renew all emissions items to include recharging charcoal canisters. If equipped, remove the hoses from the air pump & spray lithium grease up inside the pump. _ Turn engine over with ignition switch to check compression (AGAIN, DO NOT START ENGINE!). UNDERNEATH CAR FRONT Remove front rotors & check for warping. _ Turn/replace rotors as necessary. Check calipers for proper operation. _ Replace all flexible brake lines. Install new brake pads. CENTER _ Replace fluid in transmission with the same oil you put in engine. Grease universal joints/check for looseness. _ Inspect transmission mounts & replace as necessary. Visually inspect exhaust for rust/holes, proper installation, etc. _ Visually inspect underside of car for rust. Lubricate hand brake. _ Clean all Lucas wiring harness connections & coat with a LIGHT film of conductive grease. REAR Remove brake drums. Visually inspect & replace/turn as necessary. _ Replace wheel cylinders (NO! Don't even try to repair - just replace them!) Install new brake shoes. _ Replace flexible brake line on passenger side of car. Drop gas tank & visually inspect for rust. _ Remove gas sending unit & check for free operation of arm. Have gas tank boiled/cleaned as necessary (I take mine to my local radiator repair shop). _ Install cleaned & newly painted gas tank. Replace all flexible fuel lines to fuel pump/gas tank. _ Fill rear end with SAE 90 Gear Oil. In trunk, if so equipped, replace flexible lines to vapor separator & gas tank. _ Put 93-octane gas in tank & pressurize fuel system to carbs. Clean all Lucas wiring harness connections & coat with a LIGHT film of conductive grease._ Top off brake & clutch master cylinders Bleed clutch slave cylinder & check for proper operation of clutch. _ Bleed brake system starting with driver rear wheel. Reinstall wheels & adjust rear brakes DON"T TAKE OFF JACK STANDS YET! _ FIRE 'ER UP! Allow oil pressure to come up & note where it stops at idle. _ Allow car to idle until temperature has come up to normal operation range. Make any adjustments to carbs or timing. _ Depress clutch & verify its proper operation. Check operation of transmission through all gears. _ Check operation of hand brake. Check operation of wheel brakes. _ TURN ENGINE OFF. Visually inspect for any leakage along gas, clutch & brake lines, at wheel cylinders & calipers, in cooling system. _ Install & balance new 185x70R14 tires (tubes also if wire wheels) - HEY! They're probably dry rotted! Install wheels, adjust rear brakes & take car off jack stands. BODY _ Check operation of all exterior lights. Replace windshield wiper blades & check operation of wiper/washer system. _ Spray lithium grease door, hood, & trunk hinges and latching mechanisms. Install one of GEM Enterprises' emergency hood latches. _ Lubricate top bows, seat rails & adjusters. Check operation of all dash, interior, & trunk lights and switches. _ Clean all Lucas wiring harness connections & coat with a LIGHT film of conductive grease. ENGINE COMPARTMENT After engine has cooled down, readjust valves. _ Check/refill cooling system as necessary. Check engine oil level. NOW, its time for a short test drive. Once around the block only. While driving, pay particular attention to status of gauges, check for proper operation of brakes, watch for tell-tale signs of smoke from exhaust. Back in garage... ENGINE COMPARTMENT _ Recheck all engine fluid levels. Check belt tension. _ Check clutch & brake master cylinder levels (look for signs of leakage in engine compartment, under dash, and on garage floor under car). Put car on jack stands. _ Recheck rear brake adjustment. Tighten lug nuts (or wire wheel center cap). ____ Put her on the ground. At this point, feel free to drive down to the nearest filling station and fill up with 93- octane gas. I know, I know! Some of you are going to tell me that's not necessary. But, hey, that's all I ever put in my cars. I personally feel its needed all the time but should be used at least once every few tanks full. Now, after a good wash, wax, and interior detailing, she's ready for daily use. From this point on, follow the maintenance guidelines in your owner's manual.
Keith wrote: But there's still such a thing as a good deal :) I'd get it home and start investigating. We can imagine all sorts of problems, but only someone in the presence of the car can really evaluate it. I have a free Lucas fuel pump for you if you want it. And probably some other MG stuff I didn't offload with my parts car.
Yes, but a deal is only good if you have the time and money to make it "good". Taiden has started a few threads about not having any money, time, etc while going to college, and an old British car isn't going to help on any front. I know because I've got one. If that situation has changed for the better, then I rescind any recommendation to hold off. Everyone needs to know the pain/joy of an MG in order to appreciate the disconnect/numbness of a modern car. And any thoughts of garnering positive female attention by driving a cool car is offset and more when it breaks down on a date. I know because I've had it happen (berkeleying headlights break on my first date with a beautiful woman who asked me out? WTF?).
So the chick asked you out, the headlights broke and what happened? If she dumped you over that then she wasn't worth being around in the first place.
Back to the thread subject: MGs are about as complicated as a hammer. No one says it has to be running in the first ten minutes. Make a list of what needs doing and check them off as they are completed. 'How do you eat an elephant? One bite at a time'.
Exactly. It's been sitting somewhere else since just before the Miata was introduced (!). Might as well sit in Taiden's garage, where he can gradually bring it back to life one piece at a time. It would be a nice change from studying 
I have to admit that my MG underwhelmed me mightily on the short drive I was able to take before it declined the invitation to run again. Might have had something to do with some rear telescoping shocks that were locked up. But still.
I'll sweeten my offer of the fuel pump with a lever arm shock. I think I've still got one stashed in the garage. Maybe two.
If I owned this MGB, there would be a verbal warning upon entry that any trip in the MG was to be considered an adventure, with the definition of such being "an inconvenience rightly considered." All occupants of the MG would also be required to wear these regardless of gender.
I propose that any owner of an MGB will at some point in time come to the conclusion that the GRM article from years ago was, in fact, correct: The Miata is the finest English car ever made.
In march we unleash mgacoupe.com we have a crap load of mgb parts we will be selling NOS used parts , IF you get an mgb beware you will get a couple more from people that have one or know of where one is . / midget /mga /triumph .
Karl La Follette wrote: In march we unleash mgacoupe.com we have a crap load of mgb parts we will be selling NOS used parts , IF you get an mgb beware you will get a couple more from people that have one or know of where one is . / midget /mga /triumph .
Yeah, you can't just have one. MG's are the doritos of cars.
Curmudgeon wrote: So the chick asked you out, the headlights broke and what happened? If she dumped you over that then she wasn't worth being around in the first place.
No, just totally embarrassing. I was known for my car. It was cool, eccentric, interesting, a bit dangerous, and then they ride in it, and oh, so that's why they make toyota camry's. The girl and I were friends, but it was a bit humiliating when my competition for said girl stopped and offered to give her a ride home. I denied it on her behalf, and stuck an allen key in place of the fuse. If I'm burning down in this car, you are too, baby. What a night. It was a Sadie Hawkins disco themed dance, and I was wearing shiny silver disco pants, 6 inch elevator shoes, and an opaque shirt.
Yada yada yada, still have the car, got a different girl.
mguar wrote: No you can't (get parts for a Chevy) by walking down the street. At least not few dealer only parts.. However every part for a MG is honestly as far away as your keyboard.
Well, as long as you don't want a steel dash. Or a square oil pressure gauge. Or a set of center vents for a 1972. Or rear quarter windows for a GT
In reply to mguar:
There's a Chevrolet GM Buick dealer down the street from my house. Parts for late model domestics are more convenient than MG parts.
Victoria British: 00-094 and 00-095 clear GT quarter glasses. $69.95 each.
Square oil pressure gauge, not available new but Nisonger rebuilds them. http://www.nisonger.com/index.htm
Steel dash and '72 dash vents, well ya got me there.
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