First time poster, very, very long time lurker. Now I know you're all thinking "Use the search". I did and could not find what I'm looking for. I just got a 81 fox body for 100 bucks, runs like a top, 4 speed stick and a inline 6. I don't know anything about the engine/ trans and would like for somone to learn me a thing or two. I want to know how the strong the 4 speed is. and what type of bell housing did the inline 6 have
Blitzed306 said: I want to know how the strong the 4 speed is. and what type of bell housing did the inline 6 have
The short answer is Not Very, and That one!
The 200ci I6 only had 85 horsepower, even the four cyl models had more than that!
The 4 speed sucks... Swap in a built 2.3 turbo and a T-5, and be very happy for very cheap.
Isn't there a front crossmember issue with the six cylinder cars, as in a 4 cyl and V8 use the same unit, but the 6 is different? Not that its a huge deal, I would imagine there are fox crossmembers in every scrapyard in North America...
If you can't tell from the above, its already time for an engine swap. The six can be developed, but it'll take cubic dollars to match what a mild 5.0 can do.
maroon92 wrote:Blitzed306 said: I want to know how the strong the 4 speed is. and what type of bell housing did the inline 6 haveThe short answer is Not Very, and That one! The 200ci I6 only had 85 horsepower, even the four cyl models had more than that! The 4 speed sucks... Swap in a built 2.3 turbo and a T-5, and be very happy for very cheap.
turbo lima would be sweet, but I've already got the built 306 in the garage keeping the SR20 company lol. I had a feeling it was weak sauze
Getting a K-member should be a cake walk. I also heard these things are weighing in around 2600 pounds. My car is a base model w/ AC delete and power nothing
A 1981 base notch with a V8 C4 swap and a D&D crossmember with SN95 brakes should weigh about 2800lbs wet with a Kirkey seat and a Jegs cage kit.
I liked my Fox bodies a lot in the past. They can turn if you make the investment.
ahh memories... only new car I ever bought was a 1980 fox body Capri.
I ordered it with the Recaros, the TRX suspension, and the turbo engine. I even paid the stealership $59 extra to have the flat black grill installed instead of the chrome one.
Btw... the 4 speed in the turbo car was a massive POS, not sure if it is the same gearbox as was behind the 6 or not
It later got a few Racer Walsh goodies (suspension pkg, and variable boost kit)
I don't think I've ever seen someone just reply "Use the Search." We aren't dicks like that.
I love this forum even more.
Indeed, this forum rules. Its kinda funny how all this came together. I traded a Fbody guy some adjustable lower control arms and a hurst shifter for a complete ford explorer motor w/ a blown head gasket, then I started getting it put back together and had to think of something to put it in, I traded a 96 Escort SE with the valve seats dropped out for this mustang. it looks great and drives, It thats not grass roots then I don't know what is. I've got a grand total of 0$ in my latest project car.
The 200 six may not be the most powerful engine around but it is ridiculously reliable, you could make a nice profit by selling it on FordSix.com.
The six cylinder K-member has the engine mount locations further forward than the 4-cylinder and v-8, I'm not sure of the exact distance.
Compared to your K-member an '88 and up V-8 K-member will have A-arm mount locations that are .500" further outboard on each side, I believe, so you will gain some negative camber along with 1" of track width should you stick with your stock wheels.
Check out "Mustang Performance Handbook 2" by William R. Mathis. He has some nice grassroots handling solutions for the Fox Mustang.
I dont anything about this place but something makes sense to me in hot rodding a ford straight 6.
The_Jed wrote: Check out "Mustang Performance Handbook 2" by William R. Mathis. He has some nice grassroots handling solutions for the Fox Mustang.
I recommend this book as well.
And get some full-length subframe connectors welded in that thing, pronto.
10-4 on the sub frames. I'm new to mustangs, any brand thats better/worse as far fit and finish reguarding sub frame cons?. strut tower brace? ect? I gotta get that book.
I've read that on a road course the first and best improvement you can do to these cars is to weld in above-frame connectors from the back seat, under the front seat and connect to the front frame rails. I believe Griggs suggested this. This would be in addition to sub-frame connectors.
I really like the 4 headlight Mustangs.
Blitzed306 wrote: 10-4 on the sub frames. I'm new to mustangs, any brand thats better/worse as far fit and finish reguarding sub frame cons?. strut tower brace? ect? I gotta get that book.
As far as subs go, the big three are Maximum Motorsports, Griggs and Steeda. Seems like most of the AI/AIX guys go with either MM or Griggs. Subs are on the list for me as well, but since mine won't be seeing the track for a long time, I can wait. One piece of advice that made sense to me was start stock to find what you need or suits your driving style, then go from there. Also depends on what you're going to be doing. If just a track toy, go for it, otherwise I'd see what your class rules allow.
Appleseed wrote: I don't think I've ever seen someone just reply "Use the Search." We aren't dicks like that. I love this forum even more.
Use the Search.
(There, now you've seen it.)
Appleseed wrote: I don't think I've ever seen someone just reply "Use the Search." We aren't dicks like that. I love this forum even more.
HEY!!! Use the sear... oh wait. Wrong forum. My bad. Carry on....
alright guys, Just went to to fire her up and all I get was a click. strange thing is the click isn't coming from the noid or the starter. I swapped in a fresh battery, nothing, new noid, nothing. my ground wire is fubar though...... so simple, yet its holding me back
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