You guys need to realize how big a deal it is that I am even asking about a Toyota. Given a 4runner decided to try to kill my whole family. (grumble)
The Tundra DC long bed is very attractive to me.
I have very little use for 4x4, is it worth it or should I just do a PreRunner and ad the electric locking diff?
If you don't need 4wd, don't buy it. The trucks are a good bit cheaper in 2wd form, at least around here.
But, if it's something you find yourself actually needing, it's kinda hard to replace or replicate. Yea, you might be able to play with winches and such, even an e-locker, but neither are 4wd.
I've lived my entire life up here in the midwest dealingwith all 4 seasons and I've never NEEDED 4wd. Other people have their own ideas of what is needed and what is not. But if you feel you don't need it, don't buy it. extra maintenance, extra cost up front etc.
I've NEEDED 4WD a few times to get trailers out of storage locations in the middle of summer. Well, I suppose I didn't need it if I'd had access to another truck 
But it comes in handy when you don't expect it. I rarely use the 4wd on my trucks, but when I do there's no way around it.
2wd trucks are much, much cheaper in CO.
My big use would be wet boat ramp. The E-Locker would probably work better than 4x4 in that situation. This is going to be a near term replacement for the X3 and will then be regulated to pinch hitting for a much more efficient sedan soon after. Given I am putting about 10K a year on my vehicles that would put it around 120K (average miles seen in budget plus two years) before it goes to substitute duty.
That brings me to 4x4. Like people said rather have it and not need it than the other way around and louisiana can get muddy at times. 
So no opinion on locking dif vs 4wd?
I would go for a rear locker and 4x4, that way it will be the best in all situations. All of my vehicles have a rear locker/LSD, except the Mustang 
, and I have to tell you, in mud, snow, ice...whatever, its the best. I would highly recommend at least 4x4 though, living up here in Alberta, 2wd trucks are useless.
I'd rather be putting power to all four than have a locking rear. You're less likely to break traction if you have all four wheels powered. Especially since most trucks have most of their weight (and thus traction) over the front wheels unless they're loaded.
I've had identical trucks, in open diff 2wd, locker 2wd, and 4wd. 4wd won hands down in climbing slippery slopes.
I went test driving yesterday in the rain. Nice what you can learn in the rain.
2006 4wd Taco SR5 120k $18K- something was wrong with the truck it was crabbing with the rear out to the right. No visible tweaks to the frame but signs of paint. Might have been an offset frontal maybe. Deffinate no.
2012 4WD Taco TRD 140K (
) $25K (I made the comment I have never seen a good price at the dealership and I was looking at the $17K area, he came back at $20K +++. I should negotiate like that more often) Truck had a leveling kit that wasn't adjusted properly (IDK IDC car salesmans words) It was high in the front by about an 1" Even with the epic mileage it drove out great. Local 1 owner truck, had everything but Nav and Leathr. Lockers 4wd, hitch, skid plates the works. Gave me hope I was picking the right truck.
Now given I can pick up the truck I want new MSRP at $28K (base with hitch, everything else I can do later or just say berkeley it.) Should i go used?
It is esentially $11k for 9 years and 120K. Which with a normal car with that year and mileage is a much greater drop (about double)
In the end I just don't want to be spending 80% of my money on something I won't use 99% of the time.
Opinions?
With the high resale its tough to buy a used Toyota,upside is it costs less to own then buying new.I've had 3 new Toyotas and the last 3 have been used,no new ones in my future.
I'd buy the 4 wheel drive personally,you'll kick yourself the 1st time your stuck and its WAY easier to sell the 4wheel drive truck later(at least where I live).The additional buy in you'll get back in the end(probably more)so it'll essentially be free.
As for the fact your considering a Toyota despite that one with 200k had a part fail,I just roll the dice and pick one of the 3 in my driveway and cross my fingers.
That's too much cash for a used truck with that kind of mileage, and I own one.
Wet boat ramp? Buy the 4x4. I used to spend a lot of time at a marina with a somewhat steep concrete boat ramp. They kept a 4x4 truck there and were always saving peoples butts with it.
Toyota pickups are highly priced around here, and $4k less in Denver. Take a look around, there might be some geographical oddities in your area as well.
Given those numbers, though, I'd go new. I DID go new when faced with similar math on the Ram.
kevlarcorolla wrote: With the high resale its tough to buy a used Toyota,upside is it costs less to own then buying new.I've had 3 new Toyotas and the last 3 have been used,no new ones in my future. I'd buy the 4 wheel drive personally,you'll kick yourself the 1st time your stuck and its WAY easier to sell the 4wheel drive truck later(at least where I live).The additional buy in you'll get back in the end(probably more)so it'll essentially be free. As for the fact your considering a Toyota despite that one with 200k had a part fail,I just roll the dice and pick one of the 3 in my driveway and cross my fingers.
it didnt have 200k and it was the rack and pinion, kind of one of those must never catostrophicaly fail parts
The two options I want that a new one wouldn't at the base price is the lockers and the power inverter
The inverter is easy, I can get those cheap, as is the upgraded alternator. No biggie on either one of those.
The locker is another story. Those are a little more difficult across the board. but then again it isn't a $4k option to me either.
If 4x4 isn't really needed, why do need it to have a locker? As noted above, I would rather have a 4x4 than a 2x4 with a locker. IIRC, the rear locker is not available on all/some Tacoma configurations after a certain year.
Also, if you are shopping new, I wouldn't be surprised if you could get a Tundra for the price of a Tacoma once the negotiating is done. That is what I did, and my 2008 Tundra has been the most reliable vehicle I have owned. You get used to the size.
You know what doesn't get used to the behemoth size of the Tundra/Titan/F-SuperDuty trucks?
Parking spots.
Tacoma for me. The locker thing I can do with out. Just a want, not a need.
You can always get a TRD mechanical locker after the fact.
Please tell me more about this TRD mechanical diff?
In reply to Flight Service:
I was mistaken, TRD stopped with the mechanical lockers after 2004. They all went electronic after that.
I believe that there are several aftermarket companies that make LSDs for the Taco.
In reply to SyntheticBlinkerFluid:
my research says the same thing but the <GRM hive also believes the OEM locker is best.
Not a big deal.
I picked up a 2003 Tundra access cab with TRD package and tow package (wiring, trans cooler, larger battery/alternator)in the fall of 2012 with 118k, body in good shape, for about $11k, and added a cap to it. Had the timing belt and WP done as soon as I bought it. Smaller body profile (length and height) as others have mentioned which is what I was looking for, and more of a car-like ride/handling. Full set of snow tires and 180 pounds of tube sand in the bed and it handles Wisconsin winters most of the time in 2wd. I use 4wd when the snow gets deep or pulling the trailer out of wet grass paddock. 17-19 mpg highway empty, and 13 mpg towing about 5500 pounds (steel bed open trailer, Spec E30, and track supplies/gear) with cruise set at 62 mph. Does fine but with tow load won't win any entry ramp acceleration awards.
Issues are as others have noted. Frame rust but not as bad as the 00-01. PO had the gas tank straps, spare tire holder, and one of the bed cross-members done under recall, and the frame coated with the dealer's cheap version of POR-15 that wears off after a season. My dealership redid it last year while the frame recall was still going on. Front sway bar links will disintegrate but are an easy/cheap Rockauto DIY. Parking brake is an issue with sticking. Ball joints and gas filler tube were a recall item. Use an OEM gas cap or you will throw a CEL. My power steering leaks required a rack replacement early this year. New battery, Wagner catback, front brakes/rotors, otherwise so far so good at 133k.
FWIW, I would take an e-locker over a mechanical (automatic) locker every day of the week. A locker that locks only when I tell it to lock is very useful. One that locks on its own because whatever conditions are right is very unpleasant when driving around town.
On a fore mentioned Toyota Death Machine my 4Runner was a predecessor to the modern TRD. It was a limited with factory electric lockers. They worked very well.
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