Learn Me Trailer GVWR.

I just learned that they make a 6x14 enclosed trailer and I am contemplating getting one.

Some background:

I have a very narrow slab on the side of the house and fitting that home is a primary concern. My Datsun is only 12ft by 5ft so it will easily fit. The F500 is even smaller.

The one sticking point I have is the GVRW; it's 3500lbs the trailer is 1750 and the car is 1650. So that only leaves 100lbs. Before anyone chimes in note I keep everything in the van as my current single axle open trailer only carries the car. At most I would put my BMX bike in the trailer.

So now for my question, how close to the edge is the 3500GVWR? I do not plan to load over that but I like a lot of margin when it comes to towing.

Practically speaking your trailer has more like a 3850lb capacity.   

Confirm but it's most likely the axle has a 3500lb capacity.    Figure out the dry weight on the axle hooked to a car.   Then you can load it until the axle is loaded to 3500lb.  The trailet hitch will take some amount of weight.  Usually around 10%.  That weight is not technically on the trailer axle and therefore is not trailer weight.  That said it is included in you tow vehicles payload capacity and is part of your combinations Gross Combined Weight Rating.  

That said it's probably best to keep the total trailer weight including tounge weight to 3500lbs.  But the axle ultimately is what is rated to 3500lbs so tonque weight gives you margin 

In reply to nocones :

I figured the tongue weight factored in at some level.

Single axle trailers can be tricky to balance. If you get the distribution off by much, it will be nightmarish to tow. 
 

Sounds like you will be close. You can adjust a little bit by rolling the car +- 6", or by backing it in (but that can be a pain if you are not winching).  If the tongue weight goes much past 10%, it will buck hard. 
 

You might have to try it before you know for sure. 

The weight rating comes from the axle and the tires. Make sure they are trailer spec tires and inflated property, which may be the max stamped on the sidewall. 

Also, double check the tires and upgrade if necessary. I know you know that, but my 2950 GVWR trailer had tires rated for 1500 each, when I got it.

Can you get in/out of the car with it in a 6' trailer?  If you need to winch it in/out, figure on adding 100lbs of winch and battery to the front.  Also, with only 12" of extra space front/back, you will have very little room for balancing and tie down locations will be restricted.

I used to have a 6x12 enclosed, and it was tight with two sportbikes.  They make dual axle 7x16' enclosed trailers... if that fits in your storage location, it would probably work a lot better for hauling a car.

There are 6x14 trailers dual 3500 lb axle

In reply to Rodan :

The Datsun is only 1600lbs. The ATV winch on my current trailer only weighs 15lbs. I have the van set up so it can power the winch. 

A 7ft trailer restricts access to my back gate; the hole the trailer goes in is only  9 1/2 feet wide. A 7ft trailer only leaves a 1ft walking space.

In reply to Rons :

That's waaaaaaay more than I am willing to spend on a trailer. The single axle is less than half that.

Keep in mind I have 9K in the Datsun and 6K in the F500.

I just did a quick google and there's multiple options for steel versions at well under half that price. (also that aluminum trailer price is in canadian dollars so the real money price is ~$9.5k which is still excessive but not nearly as bad)

Call me overly cautions but running a single axle trailer at capacity with the cargo being something I care about just doesn't sound appealing in any way.

The single axle is cheap for a reason.  Given the value of your cargo going cheap might not be a good idea.  Single axle does not tow as smoothly as dual.  Just a fact, and I have validated it.  It bounces more, which is no fun at 65 mph.  If you intend to tow distances at highway speeds for many hours a single axle will wear your nerves out.  But if you do it anyway prepare to spend on the tow vehicle, new shocks, stiffer springs and maybe a WD hitch to make it tolerable.

Do it. Winch it in, tie it down, and laugh at all the people who don't know how to tow

In reply to porschenut :

I'm towing with a single axle trailer now.

The enclosed trailer would only add 900lbs to the equation and with my current 3/4 Van that still leaves me a 2300lb margin. Note the van has a tow package.

In the last 34 years of racing cars I've used single axle trailers. I briefly had a double axle trailer and I can't say it was a revelation on road trips. Also note none of my trailers have had brakes. 

 I posted this thread to get different points of view than mine so I appreciate the feedback.

I'm using a 6x12 for my F500. I have considered if my bugeye would fit and broke out the tape measure. Long story short, while it would fit inside the trailer, the door clearance is on the order of less than an inch per side, if I removed the sideview mirror.  I can't imagine the Datsun is really narrower than a bugeye.

In reply to Tom1200 :

OK, then you know how to drive with a trailer.  Many do not, I have driven with single and dual axle trailers of the same weight on the same roads. There is a noticeable difference.  Regarding the brakes, if I had that much money in my cargo brakes would be on my trailer.  

In reply to porschenut :

Keep in mind I only drive 65 mph. I saw someone lose a trailer many years ago and that dissuade me from the urge to drive faster. 

I should clarify my comments on the single versus dual axle; yes I did notice the difference but it wasn't (for me) like going from a Camry to  a Cayman.  It was obviously more stable but at the speeds I'm driving it wasn't enough of a difference for me to run out and buy a new trailer. Naturally I review that decision every 5 years or so.

After reading the many replies I'm leaning towards keeping the existing tilt trailer. 

In reply to Apexcarver :

I talked to my fabricator last night and in the discussion it was mentioned I'd need to winch the car in and out which sort of defeats the purpose. Note the Datsun is 60" wide so that would only leave 6" on either side.

PS: sweet BMX bike in the trailer.

In reply to Tom1200 :

I thought that was a given in the width considerations.

Since the 1200 is a hardtop, you won't be able to get out of the car once you drive it in. It will require winching. 
 

(edit: it's actually less than 6" each side. Subtract the thickness of the walls and studs)

In reply to Tom1200 :

The key isnt the interior width, but the DOOR.  Granted, mine has barn doors rather than the fold down ramp, but the stated size may be different from what it measures out.

Right after I typed that I went out back with the tape measure. The door opening on my 6x14 is 61".   Not saying that the one you are looking at will be the same (mine is from the 90's), just saying BE VERY SURE YOU MEASURE. 

In reply to Apexcarver :

Well that pretty much seals it. I was going for the trailer website dimensions.

I double checked the interior dimensions of new trailers and the 6 X vary between 68 & 69 inches. leaving 4-4.5 inches on either side.

Not saying it cant work, but that there's more work than website browsing.  Also, getting around the car to tie it down might get a touch interesting depending on how far forward you need to pull it. 

I am totally revamping how I have that trailer set up this winter. Not sure if I will do it in the F500 build thread or start a fresh one, but the wire shelves are going away and E-track on the walls with some window installations and assorted things to make it work both as a car hauler and a camper. 

Insofar as the bike, it was mine growing up and we got it used.  Early-mid 80's schwinn thrasher.  Not a light bike, but it held up through at least 3 kids and is still rideable.  One note, the seat post seen there failed MISERABLY, so its back to a straight "stock" one.  

In reply to Apexcarver :

I should share my current glorious track side set up. The bike leaning up against the van is a retro Mongoose California Special.

In reply to Apexcarver :

Here is the Datsun on the trailer.

In reply to Apexcarver :

Tie down...

When I am putting a car inside a short box, I reverse the tie downs. I tie the front of the car to the back of the trailer, and the back of the car to the front of the trailer.  
 

So, I first attach the rear car tie downs to the front of the trailer and pull them to the rear laying on the floor.  Then I start winching the car into the trailer with the front tie downs tied to the car dragging loose under the car. When the car gets in place, I make all the attachments at the rear of the trailer/ car.

This also makes the tie downs a decent length, so they are not vertical.

It can be done, but it takes thinking ahead.