One of my best friends loves C3 Corvettes and wants to build his 1982 Special Edition. Pretty sure it is an automatic, so maybe a change but he may just buy another with a stick. This one still needs to be built/made more reliable.
LS, of course. Maybe a manual, as mentioned. What about the wet noodle frame?
Dear Hive help me help a brother out.
My love of Corvettes skips the 3rd and 4th generation because they suck.
'83 was the best year ever made.
oh wait....
Ever seen Apollo 13? Yep, all astronauts drive c3s.
Holy crap. That made me go look up c3. Did you know that was the longest production corvette so far? 14 years!?! 68-82
A "best of stock" build might be fun with a span like that. Engine from 69 (or whatever, idk which is actually best), suspension from xx, etc. Should be lots of various combinations to choose from.
'68 L88 is probably best.
I admit that I have very little love for C3 Corvettes, but if I were going to build one I would aim for something like this:
I believe the last manuals were 80 but it should be a simple swap, you may need to add the Z bar pivot to the chassis but otherwise everything falls into place.
There was a recent thread where Jerry was inquiring about a C3. There was a lot of good info in that thread regarding where to look and what to do/not to do.
Personally I'd go for whatever makes the car more pleasant to drive. Late C3s are cruisers, not bruisers, may as well play to those strengths. LS swap makes sense, you get a fair amount of drivability and reliability with that. I'd be curious if there were a way to put a normal power steering box in there to get rid of one of the C3's biggest flaws. Next biggest flaw fix would be replacing the brake calipers with ones that have the seals in the body instead of on the pistons. (SSBC got their start, and their name, from repairing C3 brake calipers by putting stainless steel liners in the bores) The Corvette got disk brakes in the early-mid 60s and they kept using early-mid 60s brake calipers until 1982, while everyone else modernized.
I wonder if there is a better radiator solution. The OE radiator is heavy, takes up a lot of space, and that fan shroud needs to berking die.
IF IT WERE ME, and if I did such things, and it had to be an 80's Corvette, I think I would do the following;
Vortec-style 350 with a spreadbore intake & Q-Jet carb. HEI ignition. Bit of a cam. Nice and straight forward and no engineering to do, just order the parts and spend the time in the shop.
700-R4 with a mild lock-up converter and shift kit.
Then it's just maintenance and whatever it takes to tighten up the handling a little. Probably have to go through the rear end and rebuild the 3rd member. Maybe a 17 inch wheel & tire package.
This place advertises in the back pages of Hot Rod magazine every month: https://www.corvettecorrection.com They build a replacement frame that's lighter and stronger than original, and it accepts C4 suspension components.
We start with a 2x4 and 3x4 rectangular tubing and create a new frame. A "double rail" frame is built that eliminates the x-frame section on the C-1 and Tri-5. The C-2 & C-3 is reinforced to take the torque. This enables us to lower the engine and transmission; and leaves a lower C G (Center of Gravity) giving more tunnel clearance. Doing this lessens the heat in the tunnel; creating a cooler cockpit. Doing this also gives more clearance to accept larger transmissions (ex: T-56 - 6 speed or a 4 L80E automatic). Our design leaves more room for working on the engine and transmission; and the frame is stronger than the original. (If you would like you can sell your old frame.) The frames are sand blasted and powder coated for protection from the elements. You simply bolt C-4 components on to the frame; then bolt on the body with little modification.
In reply to pres589 (djronnebaum) :
That would be a car I would enjoy. Not enough to spend money on, and give up other projects, but fun. And I've driven a few with that basic recipe. The only body I like better than the "stingray" is the 1963 one year only.
Would ya believe there was a conversion back then to take the split window out and replace it with the later full glass!!!
I've driven 'em with stick, and AT. In that car, not enough difference in fun level for me to jump through many hoops for.
Folgers said:
Step one: side pipes.
Only car I ever really liked with side pipes!
Folgers said:
Step one: side pipes.
Step two: short length side pipes.
Step 3: maybe white side pipes.
Step 4: long pants, no synthetics.
I'd first define a goal. The x frame isn't the best handler, but do you want track day handling or just better than stock handling? Or is it more of a drag car or street / strip? And what lengths are you willing to go to get there?
This is also a car where there are a ton of engine options. The LS series would be great if you're thinking cross country road trips. A big block Chevy would be good if you want cruise night glory, while a 455 from another GM division could be a great eyebrow raiser. Or I've seen recent Maserati V8s go for around $3000 if you want something totally absurd.
Although it seems like whatever you use for a motor, a Corvette needs a V8. Unless you want a nod to what could have been and use a rotary...
In reply to MadScientistMatt :
It's the one car I'd definitely want a big block in. Big block, side pipes, and on a later C3 like that the ridiculously wide Greenwood flares if the body wasn't good enough to leave alone
stuart in mn said:
This place advertises in the back pages of Hot Rod magazine every month: https://www.corvettecorrection.com They build a replacement frame that's lighter and stronger than original, and it accepts C4 suspension components.
We start with a 2x4 and 3x4 rectangular tubing and create a new frame. A "double rail" frame is built that eliminates the x-frame section on the C-1 and Tri-5. The C-2 & C-3 is reinforced to take the torque. This enables us to lower the engine and transmission; and leaves a lower C G (Center of Gravity) giving more tunnel clearance. Doing this lessens the heat in the tunnel; creating a cooler cockpit. Doing this also gives more clearance to accept larger transmissions (ex: T-56 - 6 speed or a 4 L80E automatic). Our design leaves more room for working on the engine and transmission; and the frame is stronger than the original. (If you would like you can sell your old frame.) The frames are sand blasted and powder coated for protection from the elements. You simply bolt C-4 components on to the frame; then bolt on the body with little modification.
ok, im filing that away in my brain for later. COOL!
yupididit said:
Hear me out, 2jzgte lol
Then confuse people when you tell them you're running a 2jzc3
yupididit said:
Hear me out, 2jzgte lol
If the 1967 Mustang from F&F/Tokyo Drift can have an RB26 in it, a Corvette with a 2JZ should work well too!
dyintorace said:
yupididit said:
Hear me out, 2jzgte lol
If the 1967 Mustang from F&F/Tokyo Drift can have an RB26 in it, a Corvette with a 2JZ should work well too!
While true, the Mustang was engineered for an inline six (which is why V8s fit so poorly in them) while the last six cylinder Corvette was, what, 1955?
Well, the shark bodied '75 (I hate the ret-conned C3 moniker) in my garage has a 95 LT1 from a 9c1 Caprice as well as the 4l60e trans. It will have the later 79 rear flare on the rear bumper, bubble tail lights, and a deep front air dam. I have an aluminum rad with electric fans, shorty headers, and will go with side pipes too. Of course this all requires I get back out into the garage and get back to work on it. Sharkbite makes good suspension parts, as does VanSteel. Not sure which way I'm going with that. Not doing a frame off so I'm stuck with the flexi flyer chassis. I am considering a roll bar to help. Plus the stiffener that goes between the front upper control arms. Then most likely the Borgeson power steering conversion.