Let's talk impact guns!

Update:

Since my Harbor Freight model was refusing to tighten nuts (just loosen them), I took a flyer on the $60 one that Opti posted about:

24v Impact Wrench

Had it for three months now. Great tool for $60, but it needs to have been fully recharged within the previous 24 hours to be of any use. It tightens my wheel bolts to something in the 90# range, and I can do a couple of 4-corner wheel changeovers in a track day without recharging. Any longer than that, and it's charge is too depleted.

But once in a while, it still doesn't have the snarglies to back out a bolt here or there.

Also, without apparent reason, the HF model is now working in both directions. With two batteries, it's a better tool than the 24v one, but it costs more.

After dealing with the limitations of these tools for a fairly long trial period, I am giving up and getting the DEWALT DCF889B. In the past, it would've cost me $300 because I also needed batteries and a charger for it. But I recently bought those for a different tool, so the cost of entry is down to $150.

Doing the math, I should have just gotten the DEWALT in the first place. That's tools for ya!

I have this one:

Ryobi 18v 1/2" Impact

But with two batteries. I already had a Ryobi drill that I was happy with so went this route to save on cost.

I LOVE the damn thing. It's never failed on a lug nut - ever. even on my 4Runner, Tacoma, Expedition, nothing. It's a tank. It works well on larger suspension bolts too, and hasn't even flinched when I just sit with my finger on the trigger for 30+ seconds at a time on some stubborn rusty bolt.

I throw it around, take terrible care of it, and generally abuse the piss out of it and it's still going strong. A+ would recommend.

EDIT: Looks like it was listed in the Car and Driver test that was linked earlier in the thread. They didn't like it. I've experienced no such issues like what they mention. YMMV

DEWALT DW059HK-2 1/2-Inch 18-Volt Cordless Impact Wrench with Hog Ring Anvil

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00545PIXU

I take this one with me to the track and to autocrosses. A single charge on one of the batteries usually lasts all weekend at the track (removing and tightening at least 16 wheels with 4 lugs each), so I find the battery life is excellent for my purposes.

Torque is perfect for me as well. I let the thing crank on the lugs, and even if the battery was just recently charged, It won't over-torque my lugs. I then follow up with a torque wrench. It's perfect, because I can crank them on without thinking about it, and then I can get the torque control I need with just a slight turn of the torque wrench. (The gun says "300ft-lbs maximum torque" in the specs. My preferred torque for lugnuts is 100ft-lbs. So something doesn't add up there. Not that I care, because it does exactly what I want it to do.)

The thing is heavy, yes. But it does its job well.

http://www.ingersollrandproducts.com/am-en/solutions/garage-solutions/maximum-impact-enewsletter/feature-articles/impact-gun-torque-ratings-science-or-magic

Ingersoll Rand Article (link above) said: Ingersoll Rand advertises three torque ratings for our tools; max reverse torque, “nut-busting” torque, and forward torque range. The max reverse torque is the maximum amount of torque that the tool is able to deliver in reverse. The max torque rating is established based on a statistical analysis of a sampling of tools which have been tested in Ingersoll Rand’s lab on a Model M Skidmore tension tester with a high-strength 1-1/4” bolt. “Nut-busting” torque refers to the tool’s ability to remove a bolt that has been tightened down using methods other than the tool itself. For the “nut-busting” torque, a bolt is tightened with a torque wrench calibrated to 1100 ft-lbs, then removed with the tool being tested. In this case, the 2135TiMAX is able to remove the bolt, so the advertised “nut-busting” torque is 1100 ft-lbs. Since torque capacity is effected by many variables like bolt type and size, thread conditions, air pressure, CFM, etc., a comparison test can be difficult for an end user to replicate. And since there’s currently no industry wide standard for testing or publishing torque ratings it difficult to compare published torque ratings across manufacturers.

This sort of explains why my gun is rated for 300ft-lbs max torque, but won't tighten all the way to 100ft-lbs. It does break my lugnuts after they've been torqued. And after they've been rusted in a bit. So I would guess the advertised torque probably falls into either the "max reverse torque" or the "nut-busting" measure described in this article (which isn't DeWalt's article, but I figure marketers from any company are going to use the highest number they can).

The snap ons I've seen tend to break just after warranty periods. Ir seems to handle lug nuts the easiest but they're pretty expensive (figure $400+ for a decent one) but if you're not working in a shop it will probably be the last one you buy

CrookedRacer wrote: I figure marketers from any company are going to use the highest number they can.

Not always. I sell several lines of air tools and the one with the middle rating is strongest. The next one up is almost there but quieter. The trade-off is more size and weight. The lowest rated gun is the one most guys want because it has been around forever and is tough as nails. Then they complain when their buddy buys one of the others and it is stronger. Go figure.

Used my Craftsman this weekend to R&R the diff on EvanB's Miata. On the same charge as when I put my trailer together five or so months ago. Worked just fine. Laughed at the axle nuts. Was fighting the diff to PPF bolts when the battery finally started to show a lack of charge.

So I slapped in my 3/8" drill's Li-Ion battery and kept truckin'.