Lots of low mileage cars at the the SC co-part right now because of the recent flood

CoPart SC saw a raptor infinit G35 AWD etc.

use the damage filter. shows 235 cars

http://www.copart.com/us/Lot/35689855?searchId=868798103 Porsche Boxter

Nissan GTR

http://www.copart.com/us/Lot/34291555?searchId=868798103 2008 Miata

f6sk wrote: http://www.copart.com/us/Lot/34291555?searchId=868798103 2008 Miata

This would have been a great chassis donor for the Molvo and saved me thousand in petty items like ball joint bushings and other minor bits and consumables. I paid that much for a bare chassis. The flood damage would not be relevant to such projects.

Will have to keep Copart in mind for future projects as a a source for donors.

I have heard that flood cars aren't worth resurrecting due to continuing electrical gremlins.

I once saw a very graphic demonstration of why I won't touch drowned cars. A drinking cup of water was sitting on a table with one end of a ~12" piece of insulated wire sticking in it. The other end was left dangling over the edge of the cup down toward the table... and they waited. After some minutes, water started dripping from the end of the wire, having been drawn to the top of it by capillary action, then down by gravity.

Now substitute water that has a bit of salt in it, thoroughly saturating the wires inside the insulation. Let the car dry out and while the water may leave, the salt/deposits doesn't, and between that and humidity, the corrosion will never stop advancing.

In reply to Mr_Clutch42: It depends on how serious you are.. If you want a race car you don't want the old wiring.. (even non flood cars) There are miles of wire in some and it weighs a lot.. You don't need lumbar massage on a real race car. Plus all critical wires usually have break points for ease of assembly.. Firewalls for example..

Think of a car as just a collection of parts to be used.

i hate the whole need a broker deal. wish it was easier to get a dealer license in ohio, i would consider some of those, look at it as a "body in white" purchase for a track car. like the GTR. chances are the interior stinks, everything electronic is ruined, engine has water in it. who cares if you want the rolling body to put a cage, rewire, no hvac, aftermarket gauges, whatever drivetrain you want, etc... that's still a ton of car depending on the price it ends up.

the worst part about copart is you log in and click the "no broker needed" auctions, get a list, go to bid(on an ATV no less, that is 5 miles from my house), and you get a "broker needed" message.

In reply to patgizz:

Let me talk to some people... I know someone who might either be able to help or know someone else who can. If you're serious about buying.

When (and if ) my shop space comes to fuition, I was planning on buying parts cars through Copart but haven't looked too deeply into the nuts and bolts yet. But first, need the place to work. Baby steps.

i consider it a good source of flips/donors/parts cars so i am definitely serious. we're in the same boat, looking for an old warehouse or building around the i-480 ring(parma, brooklyn, etc) and then i could have a physical address to get dealer license. mostly to open opportunities from true dealer auctions, and not so much to sell a bunch of cars.

The dealer license requirements, if you're not familiar with them, are geared to prevent people running a "dealership" from a desk drawer in their house. You need X square feet of paved lot, an office that meets certain requirements, things like that.