LS1 crank pully

Is it common for the pulley bolt to come loose on them? Shortly after some hoonage the crank pulley came loose and it tossed a belt.

Hoonage

They don't have keyways, only a tapered fit with a torque to yield bolt. Bone stock, few issues. Pulley replaced, usually without a new bolt and probably not torqued properly, lots of loose pulleys, tossed belts, and scored crankshafts.

Okay, he said it's happened before. I'll be sure to tell him to get a new bolt as it's TTY, and properly torque it.

It's not taper fit, it's a mofo of a press fit.

The crank and damper are probably damaged if the bolt came loose. I've pinned ones that loosened the bolts but didn't lose all of their press fit with good success. I believe I got the pinning kit from Magnusson - it is just a drill guide and a couple of pins.

I'm not sure how much the pulley moved, the bolt was completely loose. It would have completely fell out if the steering rack wasn't blocking it. The AC belt got kicked and the other belt is sitting about 1/4" off it's normal place on the crack pulley.

We've had it happen a couple of times in c5 track cars. I've had good luck with a new bolt and locktite.

Nick_Comstock wrote: Is it common for the pulley bolt to come loose on them? Shortly after some hoonage the crank pulley came loose and it tossed a belt. Hoonage

hoonage? that's just a couple of donuts..

Dusterbd13 wrote: We've had it happen a couple of times in c5 track cars. I've had good luck with a new bolt and locktite.

I had one that fell off to the OP's degree... pulleys far out of line and all. Customer concern was "belt slipping". Would lose power steering in parking lots. It wasn't the belt that was slipping, it was the damper hub loose on the crank. Crank end and damper were FUBAR.

Loctite bearing set, a pair of pins (and I'd like to say they are 6mm or 1/4" diameter), and a new bolt, and it lasted until the end of the season when he could afford the downtime to have us pull the engine and replace the crank.

It should wear out your arm beating the pulley on with a hammer. I do the angle torque by marking the bolt's position and the new position 140 degrees away and it usually just about stalls my 2135 trying to get the bolt that tight. The marks also allow you to see at a glance if the bolt loosened in the future.

Knurled wrote:

Dusterbd13 wrote: We've had it happen a couple of times in c5 track cars. I've had good luck with a new bolt and locktite.

I had one that fell off to the OP's degree... pulleys far out of line and all. Customer concern was "belt slipping". Would lose power steering in parking lots. It wasn't the belt that was slipping, it was the damper hub loose on the crank. Crank end and damper were FUBAR. Loctite bearing set, a pair of pins (and I'd like to say they are 6mm or 1/4" diameter), and a new bolt, and it lasted until the end of the season when he could afford the downtime to have us pull the engine and replace the crank. It should wear out your arm beating the pulley on with a hammer. I do the angle torque by marking the bolt's position and the new position 140 degrees away and it usually just about stalls my 2135 trying to get the bolt that tight. The marks also allow you to see at a glance if the bolt loosened in the future.

don't they make installers that thread into the tapped hole in the crank and push the balancer on?

My experience is with the LS3, but I think it's the same.

The pulley installers found...everywhere...don't fit the deep LS pulleys. You just can't find them, which is odd given that this has been the Standard Chevy V8 for the last 18 years. I ended up having to make my own installer out of specially ordered metric rod, some nuts and greased washers. Worked perfectly, everything went together easily and so far no challenges even with lots of high rpm track use.

Here's a handy diagram: http://www.rigidracing.com/images/projects/LS1_CRANK_PULLEY_INSTALLER/LS1_CRANK_PULLEY_INSTALL_TOOL.pdf

novaderrik wrote:

Nick_Comstock wrote: Is it common for the pulley bolt to come loose on them? Shortly after some hoonage the crank pulley came loose and it tossed a belt. Hoonage

hoonage? that's just a couple of donuts..

That's just the short bit that was caught on camera, and any way donuts still qualify as hoonage. There where three people and each got a turn sending the old tires into the afterlife.

novaderrik wrote: don't they make installers that thread into the tapped hole in the crank and push the balancer on?

Yep. They don't necessarily work very well.

I use an extra long bolt with a large stack of washers to start the pulley, then an old crank bolt to finish it. Final fit is a NEW crank bolt with red loctite. Haven't lost one yet.

Pretty common for the pulleys to come apart, I think Ive only seen the bolts come use at the track or after they have been removed.

Follow the proper procedure when reinstalling it,seat with old bolt, then remove and install new bolt its like 240ft lbs then so many degrees or a certain torque then 240*, I cant remember which but its readily available online.

Ive done it a few times, and had to on the vette, getting the full torque/angle spec is kind of a pain in the ass without a flywheel holder, I strongly recommend one, Ive done it without and with, with was much easier. You just pull the starter and bolt it in and it holds the flywheel in place.

You have to torque the E36 M3 out of the bolt so its one less thing to worry about. Also have a big cheater pipe.

I purchased one for my GTO and after reading the specs, decided that this was not a "home mechanic" project. Local shops werent prepared to help either. Finally took the car to race shop for their assistance. YMMV