Lug studs, Lug bolts, what's the difference?

Chas_H wrote: Wheels using tapered or conical seat fasteners do not need to be hub centric.

They need to be hub centric if they are held on with bolts. Studs seem far less sensitive.

At least on Volvos.

This may also fall under the same situation as cylinder head bolts vs studs. Here's a good explanation. http://www.northernautoparts.com/ProductModelDetail.cfm?ProductModelId=14714

In reply to Streetwiseguy:

The old wide five VWs never had a problem using bolts and no hub centric.

Chas_H wrote: In reply to Streetwiseguy: The old wide five VWs never had a problem using bolts and no hub centric.

Wide 5 VW's never went fast enough to notice the shake.

Streetwiseguy wrote:

Chas_H wrote: In reply to Streetwiseguy: The old wide five VWs never had a problem using bolts and no hub centric.

Wide 5 VW's never went fast enough to notice the shake.

Sure they did. 65 mph is fast enough.

wheel studs/bolts can be replaced free for 2012 challenge, not all nuts/bolts.

Per

ncjay wrote: This may also fall under the same situation as cylinder head bolts vs studs. Here's a good explanation. http://www.northernautoparts.com/ProductModelDetail.cfm?ProductModelId=14714

yes and no... I know I hate that to torque the heads on my saab you need to reach a certain torque and then crank them another 90 degrees...

Never heard of that being done with a lub bolt..

Chas_H wrote:

Streetwiseguy wrote:

Chas_H wrote: In reply to Streetwiseguy: The old wide five VWs never had a problem using bolts and no hub centric.

Wide 5 VW's never went fast enough to notice the shake.

Sure they did. 65 mph is fast enough.

I stand by my original statement.

never had a problem with wheels not being centered properly using only bolts on watercooled VW's.

Never heard of that being done with a lub bolt..

Never had to remove a wheel that was put on by a tire shop, eh?

Streetwiseguy wrote:

Chas_H wrote:

Streetwiseguy wrote:

Chas_H wrote: In reply to Streetwiseguy: The old wide five VWs never had a problem using bolts and no hub centric.

Wide 5 VW's never went fast enough to notice the shake.

Sure they did. 65 mph is fast enough.

I stand by my original statement.

And I will stand by mine. A wheel in good condition will be held true by tapered or conical fasteners regardless of a hub centric fit or not.

The Vee I wrench on sees speeds in excess of 100 mph and serious cornering forces. All with lug bolts and no hub-centric mounting. We torque to 65 lb-ft with no issues in 3 years.

You all are still missing the point. When the car is new or relatively new. Bolt / studs doesn't make a difference. But in the case of many of the challenge cars the hubs may come off questionable cars that some idiot / current owner banged up the holes / studs. They look ok but due to the reduced contact area they fail under high stress situations by failing to maintain friction lock. So by allowing either screw in studs ( and tack welding them ) or press in studs the cars will be much safer. Think age and fatigue. Not which is stronger. And for the stretch bolt / stud. A fastener is a fastener. VW has been using stretch bolts onheads for many decades. ARP studs are used in VWs to stop from having to replace head bolts all the time

Per thanks for making the studs free to the budget.

MSF owner.

Chas_H wrote:

Streetwiseguy wrote:

Chas_H wrote:

Streetwiseguy wrote:

Chas_H wrote: In reply to Streetwiseguy: The old wide five VWs never had a problem using bolts and no hub centric.

Wide 5 VW's never went fast enough to notice the shake.

Sure they did. 65 mph is fast enough.

I stand by my original statement.

And I will stand by mine. A wheel in good condition will be held true by tapered or conical fasteners regardless of a hub centric fit or not.

I welcome you to come to my shop and install a set of winter tires on aftermarket wheels onto a 850 Volvo, then explain to the customer why you now have to sell them a set of Volvo wheels, because they are hub-centric.

Really.

I've never had problem with after market wheels. Sounds like a personal issue to me. As you've already read, there are other cars which do not require hub centric wheels. That a model of Volvo might certainly doesn't mean every car needs them..

aggravator wrote: I dont mind the bolts with a hubcentric wheel, but light aftermarket wheels dont have the proper dia. I tried the plastic hubcentric inserts but melted them on a track day. Thinking of getting studs.

You can get aluminum hubcentric inserts (Tire Rack sells 'em), which won't melt at track days. :)

My Audi has bolts, and the most annoying part is that the rotors don't have a separate fastener holding them to the hubs. This means that when you hang the wheel on the hub and spin it to line up the holes, you sometimes spin the rotor as well. Getting all three to line up can be a PITA.

codrus wrote:

aggravator wrote: I dont mind the bolts with a hubcentric wheel, but light aftermarket wheels dont have the proper dia. I tried the plastic hubcentric inserts but melted them on a track day. Thinking of getting studs.

You can get aluminum hubcentric inserts (Tire Rack sells 'em), which won't melt at track days. :) My Audi has bolts, and the most annoying part is that the rotors don't have a separate fastener holding them to the hubs. This means that when you hang the wheel on the hub and spin it to line up the holes, you sometimes spin the rotor as well. Getting all three to line up can be a PITA.

That is the worst. Just about any VW that has ever had a rotor replaced has also had the set screw broken, and I hate putting the wheels back on those.