Ashyukun (Robert)
Ashyukun (Robert) GRM+ Memberand UltraDork
5/15/18 11:43 a.m.

To complete the turbo Rampage's intercooler system I need to use a few short lengths of aluminum tubing I picked up. However given the connections need to hold pressurized air, I don't figure that just putting the connectors on the smooth hose is going to hold so I want to put a lip or raised ridge on them like most hard lines have. Is there an easy/simple way to do this? Thanks!

stafford1500
stafford1500 GRM+ Memberand HalfDork
5/15/18 11:46 a.m.

You can make a simple beading tool with a couple of short pieces of 1/4" dimeter rod and some big pliers. Use a single rod inside and two rods outside to make a small dimple, then work your way around the tube at least once.

Weld the rods to the pliers if you want a more permanent tool.

Furious_E
Furious_E GRM+ Memberand SuperDork
5/15/18 11:47 a.m.
EvanB
EvanB GRM+ Memberand MegaDork
5/15/18 12:04 p.m.

How much boost are you going to be putting through it? My Miata intercooler pipes hold fine up to 14psi with no bead on them. 

BoxheadTim
BoxheadTim GRM+ Memberand MegaDork
5/15/18 12:10 p.m.

In reply to EvanB :

I think that depends on the materials used. My last turbo Miata (that I didn't build myself) used cheap metal piping from the local plumbing hardware store and the silicone couplers would pop off at the slightest whiff of track action.

Of course with the materials used by the PO, there wasn't an easy way to put a bead in it because of the wall thickness of the piping...

Ashyukun (Robert)
Ashyukun (Robert) GRM+ Memberand UltraDork
5/15/18 12:12 p.m.

I don't think the turbo can really put out much more than 20psi (and I think that may be high). It's fairly thin-walled aluminum so I expect putting a bead on it will be relatively easy if I have the right tools.

Stefan
Stefan GRM+ Memberand MegaDork
5/15/18 12:25 p.m.

Roughing up the aluminum where the hose will sit can help, that and doubling up on the hose clamps

Put one on the hose where it sits on the pipe and the other just ahead of the pipe.

I'd build something similar to the pliers above only I'd use some small roller blade wheels with bolts drilled and tapped into the ends of the pliers.

wae
wae SuperDork
5/15/18 12:35 p.m.

I'm using smooth aluminum tube with silicon couplers and T-clamps.  No beads and no problems at 17psi.

I did experiment with using alumaweld to put a slight ridge on some aluminum IC piping for the last engine I had in the car and that was pretty easy.  I was going to do the same for the new engine but I put in the charge piping without and ridges or beads "just to mock it up" and haven't ever gotten around to it...

44Dwarf
44Dwarf UberDork
5/15/18 1:47 p.m.

https://www.amazon.com/Earls-Performance-5-5167R-008ERL-EZ-Beader/dp/B000A8OTVI

insert the "bolt" in to tube then tighten the inner bolt that pushes out the ball bearings then turn the bolt and balls roll the bead.

 

Ashyukun (Robert)
Ashyukun (Robert) GRM+ Memberand UltraDork
5/15/18 2:30 p.m.

In reply to 44Dwarf :

That's interesting, but it looks like getting one for the 2.5" tubing I have would get expensive.

The wire crimper idea from Furius_E's video looks like the simplest & cheapest. Found a crimper on Amazon that should work for $14 and should be here on Thursday. Thanks!

APEowner
APEowner GRM+ Memberand HalfDork
5/15/18 2:47 p.m.

I've just wrapped some flat  stock around the tube and tack welded it in place.  You do need the ability to weld aluminum for that to be a viable option however. 

oldopelguy
oldopelguy UberDork
5/15/18 6:41 p.m.

Get the tool.

Vigo
Vigo UltimaDork
5/15/18 9:37 p.m.

Can verify, that turbo will not make more than 20 psi on a stock engine, and less with any airflow improvements. That's plenty of pressure to blow a coupler off, though. 

Stefan
Stefan GRM+ Memberand MegaDork
5/15/18 9:42 p.m.

Terry Ryan ran his with the Wastgate wired shut and managed 18psi on his NHRA Stock Eliminator record setting Turbo Caravan.

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