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92CelicaHalfTrac
92CelicaHalfTrac MegaDork
11/8/12 10:01 a.m.

Has anyone had this happen?

My Cherokee had the windshield replaced a couple months ago, and i've had HUGE wind noise ever since. It did not do this before.

The only thing i can seem to notice is that the moulding looks quite a bit different than the stock stuff that was on there.

I also have a very slight water leak that the company is going to come out and look at. (Despite everything, i've been VERY impressed with the service i've gotten from these guys.) Would it be worth my money at this point to purchase factory Mopar moulding and have them re-do it?

yamaha
yamaha Dork
11/8/12 10:04 a.m.

Safelite?

92CelicaHalfTrac
92CelicaHalfTrac MegaDork
11/8/12 10:07 a.m.
yamaha wrote: Safelite?

I don't remember what it was, to be quite honest. ICS guy, Eric. He's been great, all things considered. I'm chalking this up to my luck and not doing research ahead of time.

Just wondering if aftermarket mouldings often cause this.

Cone_Junky
Cone_Junky Dork
11/8/12 10:45 a.m.

That's a legitimate complaint against the windshield. I've had the same problems in the past. It might coincide with the water leak, but supplying your own factory moulding when they replace thier first mistake is a good idea.

02Pilot
02Pilot HalfDork
11/8/12 10:46 a.m.

Could be the molding. I haven't had experience with aftermarket ones, but replacing the old cracked one with a new factory part on my 525i made a huge difference in noise level. I was amazed at how much effect they can have.

sachilles
sachilles SuperDork
11/8/12 10:57 a.m.

I'm betting your water leak is the source of your wind noise.

92CelicaHalfTrac
92CelicaHalfTrac MegaDork
11/8/12 11:06 a.m.

Hrmmm... Seems Jeep moldings are way cheaper than Celica moldings. Looks like i'm spending in the $50-$75 range for a Mopar part. I'm cool with that.

So the molding is the first thing you guys would be looking at?

92CelicaHalfTrac
92CelicaHalfTrac MegaDork
11/8/12 11:07 a.m.
sachilles wrote: I'm betting your water leak is the source of your wind noise.

Well the windnoise is DEFINITELY coming from the passenger side, and the water leak is directly above the steering wheel, so i'm thinking they're separate issues, unfortunately.

The molding for sure isn't fitting like factory. It's wider and is going over onto the body, i think it's lifting up at speed or something.

16vCorey
16vCorey PowerDork
11/8/12 11:10 a.m.

Carefully push around the edge from the inside. If it moves at all, it didn't seal. We have a lot of windshields put in and I've never noticed any wind noise with an after market molding, but we have had a few that didn't seal properly after being put in.

GameboyRMH
GameboyRMH GRM+ Memberand PowerDork
11/8/12 11:26 a.m.

I wouldn't be surprised if the seal was causing it. On my 'rolla, an invisibly small difference in the window position can make a HUGE difference in wind noise. Like 1/10mm is the difference between "almost as quiet as a modern car" and "WW2 fighter plane," and that's after there's a good few mm of overlap between the window glass and the upper seal. I can change it just by putting pressure on the window lever.

Swank Force One
Swank Force One MegaDork
9/17/13 4:23 p.m.

Alright, i'm bumping this.

Tried to contact the company that did the replacement a few times, never got any sort of response. (Economy Auto Glass.)

About a month ago, a sign at SWMBO's work fell on the Jeep, cracking the replacement windshield.

Figured i'd give the guy another shot, this time i'd supply OEM moulding, thinking that maybe that was what the problem was. Could never get ahold of him again.

So... i called Safelite, who couldn't really quite match what i paid before, and refused to just charge me for the glass and labor, despite me already having the OEM moulding on hand. But i digress. I had the come out and do it anyways.

Yesterday, they show up, start poking around, take the old moulding off by hand in about... 30 seconds, saying "Ummm.... i shouldn't be able to do this." They then find 4 leaks caused by improper install. The glass also isn't centered, and the moulding was obviously not installed correctly.

There's now rust damage caused by the absolutely horrendous install and the leaking. Safelite wasn't even sure if they could get a new glass in yesterday. We couldn't find out yesterday, since the new glass they brought was already chipped and turned out to be a wavy piece of E36 M3.

Just got a text from SWMBO saying that they just finished up, had to charge a little extra because of the horrendous amount of cleanup and prep they had to do because of the terrible previous install.

So, my question is: What do i do from here? Anything? I'm pretty E36 M3ty that i paid $250 for the first install that has now caused rust damage in a pretty E36 M3ty place on the Jeep, as well as extra money to clean up their mess enough to even be able to put in a new glass. SWMBO took pics of the damage, and the Safelite tech said that it should be pretty apparent that the damage was caused by the previous install. He also said that this is what caused my headliner to fall down.

I don't want to lose this truck to rust, and i can't really afford to pay a body shop to go back in and fix it all out of pocket, and i'm going to be extremely irate if this ends up turning into a nightmare all because of this.

Swank Force One
Swank Force One MegaDork
9/17/13 4:39 p.m.

It's like this everywhere the gaps weren't filled properly. berkeleying ridiculous.

turboswede
turboswede GRM+ Memberand PowerDork
9/17/13 4:55 p.m.

Asked my buddy who runs a glass company (and is a car guy like us) about your situation (sent him the thread) and he responded with the following:

Aaaron Hambleton, President of Precision Glass of Clackamas said: It's called universal molding...no bueno on many cars. The rust should have been repairable, if it was in fact created by the inferior last install. We do it all the time on cars MS (Glass) bones up.

So yeah, I'd go back after the idiots that screwed up your install for proper repairs as they dropped the ball. However this will likely require going to small claims court to get them to pay up (if you can get them to respond).

Swank Force One
Swank Force One MegaDork
9/17/13 4:58 p.m.

Thanks man!

Now i suppose the next question is: What's enough proof? Safelite wouldn't write anything up, but i do have pictures of the E36 M3ty install without the moulding covering it, and i do have pictures of the rust.

And the original receipt for the work.

The rust IS repairable, but it's one of those things at this point that it's probably going to need to be done sooner rather than later unless i want it to become a SERIOUS problem, and i can't imagine it being cheap.

SlickDizzy
SlickDizzy GRM+ Memberand UberDork
9/17/13 5:11 p.m.

Honestly that rust looks like you could just paint POR-15 right over it and you'd be fine.

Swank Force One
Swank Force One MegaDork
9/17/13 5:13 p.m.

Which involves taking the windshield out again. If this were one of my piece of E36 M3 daily drivers, i'd probably just ignore it, but this is the "nice" daily driver, and if the windshield is coming back out, it's getting fixed the right way.

I don't have the rest of the pictures yet, i need to see those.

turboswede
turboswede GRM+ Memberand PowerDork
9/17/13 5:18 p.m.

In reply to Swank Force One:

Probably take it to a body shop to have them document the cost for the repairs and then talk to an attorney to help you file the proper paperwork for a claim against the company. The attorney may be able to write a nasty letter to start with and go from there.

Sucks, but such is life.

Or you can wash your hands of it all and fix the rust yourself with some Por15 and get on with life.

Your choice.

Swank Force One
Swank Force One MegaDork
9/17/13 5:22 p.m.

If i were to fix it by just throwing some Por15 over it, what would be the order of operations?

Pay someone to take out windshield, cover rust with Por15, pay someone to put windshield back in?

If i go this route, any guesses as to how long i have before that fix isn't really a viable option? I don't have time to mess with it until late November, which won't really work since i can't have it down for any length of time during the cold months. So it'd have to wait until Spring at the earliest.

SlickDizzy
SlickDizzy GRM+ Memberand UberDork
9/17/13 5:25 p.m.
Swank Force One wrote: If i were to fix it by just throwing some Por15 over it, what would be the order of operations? Pay someone to take out windshield, cover rust with Por15, pay someone to put windshield back in? If i go this route, any guesses as to how long i have before that fix isn't really a viable option? I don't have time to mess with it until late November, which won't really work since i can't have it down for any length of time during the cold months. So it'd have to wait until Spring at the earliest.

Your order of operations is correct.

Well, if the rust is already there, it is only going to get worse and worse the longer you wait. How long until you hit the tipping point is anyone's guess but I wouldn't be surprised if you start seeing bubbles in the sheetmetal around the windshield before spring.

Javelin
Javelin GRM+ Memberand MegaDork
9/17/13 5:25 p.m.

In reply to turboswede:

Heeeeyyy... Does your guy do winshield channel / A-pillar repair?

Swank Force One
Swank Force One MegaDork
9/17/13 5:27 p.m.
SlickDizzy wrote:
Swank Force One wrote: If i were to fix it by just throwing some Por15 over it, what would be the order of operations? Pay someone to take out windshield, cover rust with Por15, pay someone to put windshield back in? If i go this route, any guesses as to how long i have before that fix isn't really a viable option? I don't have time to mess with it until late November, which won't really work since i can't have it down for any length of time during the cold months. So it'd have to wait until Spring at the earliest.
Your order of operations is correct. Well, if the rust is already there, it is only going to get worse and worse the longer you wait. How long until you hit the tipping point is anyone's guess but I wouldn't be surprised if you start seeing bubbles in the sheetmetal around the windshield before spring.

Bubbles already there, showed up about 3-4 months ago, which was my first clue that this install was probably botched.

SlickDizzy
SlickDizzy GRM+ Memberand UberDork
9/17/13 5:29 p.m.
Swank Force One wrote:
SlickDizzy wrote:
Swank Force One wrote: If i were to fix it by just throwing some Por15 over it, what would be the order of operations? Pay someone to take out windshield, cover rust with Por15, pay someone to put windshield back in? If i go this route, any guesses as to how long i have before that fix isn't really a viable option? I don't have time to mess with it until late November, which won't really work since i can't have it down for any length of time during the cold months. So it'd have to wait until Spring at the earliest.
Your order of operations is correct. Well, if the rust is already there, it is only going to get worse and worse the longer you wait. How long until you hit the tipping point is anyone's guess but I wouldn't be surprised if you start seeing bubbles in the sheetmetal around the windshield before spring.
Bubbles already there, showed up about 3-4 months ago, which was my first clue that this install was probably botched.

In that case, I might just let it go and wait until the whole thing rusts out. That means it's already reached the underside of the roof skin. You'll be fighting a losing battle unless you want to spend a LOT of money.

Swank Force One
Swank Force One MegaDork
9/17/13 5:31 p.m.
SlickDizzy wrote:
Swank Force One wrote:
SlickDizzy wrote:
Swank Force One wrote: If i were to fix it by just throwing some Por15 over it, what would be the order of operations? Pay someone to take out windshield, cover rust with Por15, pay someone to put windshield back in? If i go this route, any guesses as to how long i have before that fix isn't really a viable option? I don't have time to mess with it until late November, which won't really work since i can't have it down for any length of time during the cold months. So it'd have to wait until Spring at the earliest.
Your order of operations is correct. Well, if the rust is already there, it is only going to get worse and worse the longer you wait. How long until you hit the tipping point is anyone's guess but I wouldn't be surprised if you start seeing bubbles in the sheetmetal around the windshield before spring.
Bubbles already there, showed up about 3-4 months ago, which was my first clue that this install was probably botched.
In that case, I might just let it go and wait until the whole thing rusts out. That means it's already reached the underside of the roof skin. You'll be fighting a losing battle unless you want to spend a LOT of money.

Awesome. So my Jeep was killed by a 2nd rate glass installer.

Seems like every time somebody else touches my vehicles, it's a recipe for disaster. I wish i just knew how to and/or had the time to do everything for myself.

SlickDizzy
SlickDizzy GRM+ Memberand UberDork
9/17/13 5:34 p.m.

In reply to Swank Force One:

Well, to be fair, this is why I always pony up the extra $100 for Safelite or another major auto glass company versus Joe Local. I'd have also been on the phone the day after install if it was making such a weird noise the whole time. But, live and learn I guess.

turboswede
turboswede GRM+ Memberand PowerDork
9/17/13 5:36 p.m.
Javelin wrote: In reply to turboswede: Heeeeyyy... Does your guy do winshield channel / A-pillar repair?

Sounds like it. Hit him up on FB and ask him.

http://www.facebook.com/precisionautoglass

http://www.facebook.com/aaron.hambleton.5

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