https://www.homedepot.com/p/Dannmar-MaxJax-2-Post-Portable-Lift-DMJ-6/204163445
One day only...
Nice! Just wish they could fit under my cars!
i can see that happening for me in 2020
It also says free curbside liftgate delivery. Kind of a big deal as most places you order it from you need to get it delivered to a shipping dock or they charge you extra. This really is a bargain.
Interesting, I didn't know Home Depot sold them.
Several major retailers are essentially becoming drop shippers for items they don't stock in stores. It's an interesting strategy against Amazon and eBay.
Just how “portable” is that setup? Do the posts need to be bolted down? I would assume so. How thick does the floor under the posts need to be? Color me very interested ....
Four inch concrete (if my memory circuits are firing) and yes, you have to drill five holes for each post and bolt the columns down. Runs off 110V which is a plus for those of us without 220 in the garage. You can unbolt and move the columns in about 10 minutes per side. I love mine, it's what I used to pull the R63 motor.
Not that I can buy one right now but how does one determine how thick thier exisisting garage slab is?
Damn, poor timing for my bank account
Lobsterpennies said:Not that I can buy one right now but how does one determine how thick thier exisisting garage slab is?
I think you drill a small hole all the way through.
"Time to full rise is 30 seconds"
They arent the only ones making that claim.......
Justjim75 said:"Time to full rise is 30 seconds"
They arent the only ones making that claim.......
seems kinda slow to me
AngryCorvair said:Justjim75 said:"Time to full rise is 30 seconds"
They arent the only ones making that claim.......
seems kinda slow to me
The actual time has nothing to do with the unit, it is all dependent on the operator.
I always wonder about these two-post lifts. I'm sure they're fine as long as the car's CG is within X inches of the post, but how would most people guess where their CG is? It just seems like a liability nightmare for the manufacturer when somone puts something on it with the CG way off, raises it, which increases the lever arm on the offset, until it pulls half the anchors out of the concrete and the whole affair comes crashing down. Never heard of it happening though/yet.
There are guides online for repair shops that tell you where the cg is for most cars.
kb58 said:I always wonder about these two-post lifts. I'm sure they're fine as long as the car's CG is within X inches of the post, but how would most people guess where their CG is? It just seems like a liability nightmare for the manufacturer when somone puts something on it with the CG way off, raises it, which increases the lever arm on the offset, until it pulls half the anchors out of the concrete and the whole affair comes crashing down. Never heard of it happening though/yet.
I think the arms are designed to be at max length and have most or all of the weight out that far. If you screw up the cg, the lift doesn't fall over, the car falls off the lift. Most common when doing a big removal like pulling the engine or something. Car is on the lift fine, lower it, set engine and subframe on floor, lift car again, it is barely balancing now. Go put a breaker bar on the back wheel to remove a lug nut, pull down hard, and...
Robbie said:kb58 said:I always wonder about these two-post lifts. I'm sure they're fine as long as the car's CG is within X inches of the post, but how would most people guess where their CG is? It just seems like a liability nightmare for the manufacturer when somone puts something on it with the CG way off, raises it, which increases the lever arm on the offset, until it pulls half the anchors out of the concrete and the whole affair comes crashing down. Never heard of it happening though/yet.
I think the arms are designed to be at max length and have most or all of the weight out that far. If you screw up the cg, the lift doesn't fall over, the car falls off the lift. Most common when doing a big removal like pulling the engine or something. Car is on the lift fine, lower it, set engine and subframe on floor, lift car again, it is barely balancing now. Go put a breaker bar on the back wheel to remove a lug nut, pull down hard, and...
Or anytime you lift an Elise...
30 seconds is quick when you're almost 50, and it takes half that time when I'm not alone.
Lol!
You'll need to log in to post.
