May look at this MK1 MR2 this week... input?

from talking to the kid it sounds like its had a bad owner in the past who liked electrical tape and RTV so he's been going through a lot of it and correcting things but is selling because he needs a truck to move his tools around now.
fortunately he sounded like an enthusiast and has a buddy who's had a whole bunch of them.

has a baseball sized rust spot on the drivers door and a few little bubbles around the mud flaps, has what he described as a fairly loud honda volume exhaust without a cat (i really dig the center out muffler, but needs more resonator and/or cat), but apparently doesnt leak and isnt a T-top car, the interior looks pretty good, has working cruise control, plus the price is right.

here's the CL link http://providence.craigslist.org/cto/2208657324.html

so does this look like a pretty good deal?

There's a lot of plastic panels around the bottom of those cars which looks really nice, but under the bumpers and sideskirts there's often a LOT of rust on northern cars. Really try to get under the car and make sure it's not totally shot before getting it.

Not to hijack, but I find myself interested in one myself, and was about to post a similar thread...except this one has possibly minor (or not) crash damage :/

http://rockford.craigslist.org/cto/2169234882.html

I am going to call tomorrow and ask what the hell happened.

If the A/C and hand brake work, that is a pretty good deal. All you need to do is replace the bushings, fix the rust and missing front airdam and you have a pretty good vehicle.

Just make sure the rust is not too bad. Rust is THE ENEMY on these cars. Check under the interior and trunk carpets for rust--if you can. Also poke underneath with a screw driver. If these areas prove to be rusty, I would walk away. Also check around the master cylinder for leakage and and around the rear rocker panels for rust. Take it for at least a 20 minute test drive. If it does not overheat offer him 900. If he takes it that's an excellent deal. If not he has done most of the hard and boring work for you so still a decent deal. Dont forget he changed the timing belt and put new tires and brakes on it. Those alone are worth something:)

If the AC does not work then 1000 is the most I would pay. These cars can get rather hot inside in the summer especially without the moon roof cover. Again, if floors are rusty, I would walk away. If there are no suprises, then that is not a bad deal at all.

Weird damage on that other one...bonnet all mangled but the bumper seems fine.

First one sounds like a good deal to me! I can't find an AW11 locally for under $4K

The only thing I know about these cars is that I have always wanted one and this looks too nice and affordable for this area

Interested in company if you go to check it out? I might need to make an offer if you decide to pass...

As others have said, rust, rust, then look for more rust. Those little triangle shape trim pieces in front of the rear wheel love to hide significant rust. Try to peek inside of there. One of the MK1s I owned had so much rust there that the trim just fell off because everything holding it on rusted away.

But if it's relatively rust free and you don't mind doing some work on it...jump on it.

Man....I wish I still had one of these things...

Sub $300 Complete unwrecked MR2

http://lansing.craigslist.org/pts/2146911532.html

I miss mine (it's my B-day today, buy it for me?)

Grtechguy wrote: Sub $300 Complete unwrecked MR2 http://lansing.craigslist.org/pts/2146911532.html I miss mine (it's my B-day today, buy it for me?)

WTH?? $290??

SlickDizzy wrote: Not to hijack, but I find myself interested in one myself, and was about to post a similar thread...except this one has possibly minor (or not) crash damage :/ http://rockford.craigslist.org/cto/2169234882.html I am going to call tomorrow and ask what the hell happened.

He probably hit an SUV.

One of the first cars I drove was a mk1 mr2. Red, with the rear spoiler and sunroof. Was a very cool little car. The owner was my boss and she traded a BMW in on it after a spin in the rain scared her silly

4AGE power.... sweeet little powerplant

Re the rust, check the rear wheel arches - if you can still see the spot welds, the arches are likely to be original still and a good indicator of the overall condition of the vehicle. Also, don't forget to check the A post as that's another notorious structural rust spot.

Luke wrote: Weird damage on that other one...bonnet all mangled but the bumper seems fine. First one sounds like a good deal to me! I can't find an AW11 locally for under $4K

Hit an SUV/pickup

I reviewed the pictures of the red car. Looks good at $1k-ish. My first thought was that being that red (not pink) and shinny it must have been repainted once. Sure enough, I am pretty sure the tow hooks under the rear bumper should be factory black. I can not be exact sure because my old '88 MR2 had been repainted too.
Since we are talking repaint then look for what was hidden. I would highly suspect rear wheel arches have been bondo'ed (bring a magnet.) But, at $1k, if the work is okay then it likely is acceptable.

I did not expect that the car would have the trim piece that surrounds the radio/HVAC. These are damn near impossible to find replacements for. They tend to get ruined from peoples knee resting against it. If that does not kill them then one pretty much gets ruined every time a stereo is stolen. There is no aftermarket answer. Back in 2003 I sold a perfect one on ebay for $110 (and actually got paid.) The auction started at $10 - what did I know. Is sold two others over the years and would get $45-$55 all the time.

For the black car the damage does not look so unique. I had an accident with my old '96 Accord with similar results. The car in front of me braked hard on the expressway. While braking his rear end lifted in the air and my vehicle dived down. Result; my car mustly went under their vehicle. More impact after the headlights rather than in front of the lights.
Bad picture but it looks like there may be some A-pillar damage. That would be bad.

Also, good comment about the parking brake. I had to disconnect the pins at the rear caliper for mine. The cables are metal in a metal sheeth and they rust together. Replacement is cumbersome. I got along for 3 years with a wedge chock tied to a string.