Since intact wiring harnesses for early 90's Suzuki Swift GT's are getting kind of hard to find, how hard would it be to just megasquirt the 1300 twincam that I found for the car.
Again, I'm not interested in building some kind of buzz bomb temperamental race car. I just want a fun reliable little car to drive.
Snowdoggie wrote: I just want a fun reliable little car to drive.
In my experience, you're not going to get better reliability than OEM, you'd be lucky to get anywhere near that. It's just difficult to get OE quality connectors, wiring, and electrical components and put it all together as well as a factory can.
In reply to Snowdoggie:
I wonder if working with a company like Painless Wiring could get you needed connectors, contacts, and wire to rebuild the factory harness. It would probably be easier once you had these items and a good wiring diagram for the car to go and build up a replacement factory harness using the proper wiring colors to match what was original to the car.
You'd basically need to do this anyway if you did an MS although you could go away from factory wire colors if you really wanted and were interested in developing a proper wire diagram for the car so you knew what color wire went from pin to pin. Short of making a new wiring diagram I wouldn't do anything other than replicating factory as close as possible.
JohnyHachi6 wrote:Snowdoggie wrote: I just want a fun reliable little car to drive.In my experience, you're not going to get better reliability than OEM, you'd be lucky to get anywhere near that. It's just difficult to get OE quality connectors, wiring, and electrical components and put it all together as well as a factory can.
This is probably because I tend to drive italian cars and we know italians aren't so great with electrons, but my X1/9 was way more reliable post megasqirt than pre megasquirt.
The same will likely hold true for the Maserati as well.
What I like about MS is that long after all the OEM parts are unobtainium, the MS will be rebuildable/upgradeable. I think you can buy OEM quality connectors for darn near every part of the harness too, or just use OEM connectors from different vehicles.
I will echo the MS is reliable sentiment. My last 3 daily drivers have been on it. The bonus is when something does go wrong you are already equipped with the tools to fix it.
What does it take? A throttle position sensor, a coolant temp sensor, an intake air temp sensor and an oxygen sensor. Is that motor distributor driven or COP? Both methods are documented plus you can switch to distributorless for E36 M3s-n-giggles. Idle control for warmup has a few options. What does the G13B use?
I like working the GM IAT and CLT sensors into the car and use the common and high quality GM weatherpack connectors for durability, availability and simplicity.
I think you have to make some code changes to use the distributor, but it's not a big deal. It's very well documented on teamswift, and we do have a guy that does plug and play units for the GT. You could probably use my tune.
Swap over to MS using all GM harness connectors and as many GM sensors as possible. That way you can get all the connectors from the local P&P. Some good soldering and shrink wrap and making a reliable harness is simple. And if anything brakes or otherwise needs replacement you can just go get more from the P&P or order replacements on line from many aftermarkets suppliers. I have take the harder rout and tried to make my MS work through the OE harness. This was a project! You basically have to map out and learn the OE harness and more importantly how each circuit works with in the harness. Not hard but time consuming.
The only other thing I would recommend is that if you have a distributor I would convert it to EDIS. EDIS seems to be the easiest of the ignition options due to the EDIS box dealing with all the ignition settings for you. All you you have to do is figured out the timing table once the EDIS set up is fitted to the motor.
For your reading pleasure.
My adventure in converting my 924s to a cam triggered EDIS system
http://www.autosportlabs.org/viewtopic.php?t=2026
My on going saga of me putting MS in to my 924s. It covers 2 years of me messing around with this.
http://clarks-garage.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=8338
Zomby Woof wrote: I think you have to make some code changes to use the distributor, but it's not a big deal. It's very well documented on teamswift, and we do have a guy that does plug and play units for the GT. You could probably use my tune.
MS2/Extra code (or MS3) can run the Swift GT distributor right out of the box.
I agree with ditchdigger, m4ff3w and dean1484, if you set it up right, and make good connectors, think soldered joints with heat shrink to protect from the elements, or proper OEM style weather-pack connectors you're looking at very high reliability. Our race car which is street legal and driven to/from events on the highway and around town has had a MS1 V3 in it for going on 5 years now. It starts every time, and runs better than it ever did OEM, but again, that was compared to 80s German electricals...
Do like Keith Tanner in his Locost book, and do breakers, and a custom harness, only with Mega Squirt. If you don't have a factory harness , that's the easiest path. ...Man, stuff IS easier said than done. Pix with project, please, sir.
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