Metal-on-metal AC clutch, how bad?

I ordered an AC clutch kit for my Toyobaru after the AC pulley took a hit in a crash and started making some unhealthy pulley bearing noises. As is apparently common for Subaru AC compressors, the only kits available are from the sketchiest Chinesium manufacturers, so I ordered one of these:

https://www.ebay.ca/itm/375723784069

Only after looking at install videos did I notice that AC clutches generally have a ring of wearable friction material while this one has none, both surfaces are just metal. Is this bad? Searching around, it looks like it's fairly common for bargain-bin kits.

Thinking about this, my fear is that the compressor pulley seizes up and makes the engine accessory drive unworkable, so I think I'm gonna just install the new clutch kit and if the AC doesn't work, that's a smaller problem I can deal with later.

If you just unplug the clutch connector, it will freewheel. I've never seen one seize up when it's just freewheeling, the bearings would have to fail and that's pretty unlikely..

The only AC clutch i ever had apart was just metal on metal and that was an OEM Ford AC clutch. I took a shim out to make it work again and it was still working when the truck got stolen a few years later.

The bearings seem to be the problem here, it's making a noise very much like an idler pulley with a worn bearing. The AC compressor pulley took a hit from the front.

Edit: Just took the belt off and exposed the pulley, I can confirm that the part of the pulley that the belt rides on is noisy and has inconsistent drag when you try to spin it. Now trying to figure out how to get a grip on just the face of the pulley to undo the center bolt...

I've never seen an A/C clutch with friction material.  They have always been metal to metal.

There are special clutch holder tools, or you can try powering it with the belt on.  The nut isn't held on with much torque, it's probably only an M6.

Yeah it looks like powering up the clutch while the belt is on is the only non-special-tool option for this model...with the likelihood of needing a puller to get the old pulley off at the next step, the economics of DIYing this job are looking increasingly questionable.

The pulley SHOULD slide off after you remove the circlips.  It's a close tolerance fit so you need to slide it straight off (so TWO flathead screwdrivers, using one may make it bind) but you'll notice that there's no provision on the pulley or bearing to mount a puller.

For funsies, put a clutch disk on a transmission input shaft and try to pull it off with one hand.  It won't budge, pulling off center like that will male it bind harder the harder you pull.  And that's a looser tolerance fit.  With two hands it will slide right off.