Miata clutch job

Next weekend I'm going to do a clutch job on my 96 miata. Is there anything specific to look our for or any special tools I'm going to need (like triple square bits on vw's). I've don't clutches before, but only on fwd drive cars so this is uncharted territory for me. I am not anticipating a ny problem, just figured I'd ask first. That deepest I've ever dug into the car was a timing belt/water pump job last year. Also is there anything else that should be replaced while I'm in there. Thanks for any help or tips.

I don't think there's anything special needed on a Miata, but if you've done FWD clutches before this will be easy for you.

The Miata clutch job is easy sauce. Might as well replace the slave cylinder while you're at it if it hasn't been replaced recently.

Agree on clutch slave. If you have oil leaks, reaching around the transmission to disconnect the switch wires is like bear-hugging a block of grease.

For me, reaching the top bolts on the transmission was way easier with a U-joint and some looooooong extensions. YMMV. That's about as specialized a tool you'd need—and the clutch alignment tool, of course, but that comes with your clutch.

Some of you can remind me: anything tricky about the power plant frame? My memory's fuzzy. I can't recall if I had to loosen it from the differential or not to make room for the trans to come out.

I couldn't loosen mine from the diff (rust) so I used a tie down to pull it over to the side.

I pulled the ppf and exhaust completely out of the car when I did mine, made for very easy access. I agree with getting the top bolts with a bunch of extensions and a u joint socket from underneath.

I've done this job a couple times.

1. The top bolts are easier with the engine tilted back. What I did ('90 and '91) was hold up the rear of the transmission with a jack and disconnect it from the PPF. Through the shifter hole, I secured the transmission with a ratchet strap or rope then lowered it down. I removed the coil pack from the back of the valve cover and moved it out of the way and padded the firewall. Then I lowered the jack until the engine was resting on the firewall and used another ratchet strap to hold the top of the engine against the firewall. With the extensions and wobble bits I had no problems getting the top bolts out.

2. While you're at it, (not sure about a 1.8L), there is a tiny rubber boot on the back of the head that is much easier to replace with the trans. out. On a 1.6, these leak and blow the coolant out.

3. Rebuild the shifter with new bushings.

4. Replace the rear main seal.

5. If your speedo bounces, it is easier to replace the cable with the transmission out too.

6. If the tailshaft of the transmission drips at all, that seal is pretty easy to replace.

7. Replace the front seals in the transmission if there is any evidence of leakage, or just as preventive maintenance.

Not a hard job. It took me a day taking it slow with the car on jack stands. It takes about an hour or two if at the racetrack and you have to get it done now. I spent time cleaning, degreasing, and rust proofing so that took extra time.

That boot isn't on the 1.8, it's only for the 1.6.

I don't disconnect the PPF from the diff. That's a hassle. Just push the PPF out of the way.

It isn't that hard to get to the top transmission bolts. Extensions and a universal, job done. Long extensions, maybe. But we never bother tilting things around.

You will need new boots for the shift lever. I have to admit I've never changed any bushings on the shifter.

The engine is going to flop forward when the trans comes out. Put a socket or some other spacer between the oil pan and the subframe or steering rack to support it, it'll be a lot easier to align the trans on reinstallation.

I think you have a clutch slave in stock Aaron... I probably dont want to know what clutch you are using do I.... ;-)