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wspohn
wspohn HalfDork
11/6/14 9:45 a.m.
Vracer111 wrote:
Flight Service wrote: I don't know who these people are or what forum they think this is but Miata all the way. It is always the answer.
Except when the answer is Cappuccino? Oh how I wish I were a tiny Japanese man sometimes that could squeeze into one of those...

Or from a previous generation:

Rupert
Rupert HalfDork
11/6/14 2:40 p.m.

I know, a lot of people aren't into Consumer Reports. I certainly don't go by their car test reports. However their Reliability ratings are based on real world input from people who actually own and drive the cars being rated. Not some magazine writer who could care less how long it runs or how often it's in the shop. These ratings include a lot of warranty related problems. But even under warranty, the car is out of service while being repaired.

According to the Dec. '14 Consumer Reports chart the Honda Civic Si is the most reliable "Sporty Car" with about 65% less reported owner problems than the average. Next is the Miata at about 55% better than average. Among other "Sporty Cars" we've discussed the Corvette is about 15% below average in reliability and the Hyundai Genesis Coupe is about 25% worse than average.

The Frisbee twins are rated least reliable of all "Sporty Cars" listed by the Consumer Reports customer survey. The Scion FR-S is about 45% below average reliability while the Subaru is about 78% less than average.

If I were thinking DD plus fun and/or had a small repair budget, I'd have to consider repair costs and down time in my purchase decisions.

Rupert
Rupert HalfDork
11/6/14 3:50 p.m.

In reply to MrChaos:

That Skyline looks great!! Repair parts might be an issue.

mad_machine
mad_machine GRM+ Memberand MegaDork
11/6/14 4:19 p.m.

but even at 75% less reliable than average.. the BRZ is still a few thousand times more reliable than any sporty car built in the 60's, 70's or 80's

Vracer111
Vracer111 Reader
11/6/14 8:25 p.m.
Rupert wrote: I know, a lot of people aren't into Consumer Reports. I certainly don't go by their car test reports. However their Reliability ratings are based on real world input from people who actually own and drive the cars being rated. Not some magazine writer who could care less how long it runs or how often it's in the shop. These ratings include a lot of warranty related problems. But even under warranty, the car is out of service while being repaired. According to the Dec. '14 Consumer Reports chart the Honda Civic Si is the most reliable "Sporty Car" with about 65% less reported owner problems than the average. Next is the Miata at about 55% better than average. Among other "Sporty Cars" we've discussed the Corvette is about 15% below average in reliability and the Hyundai Genesis Coupe is about 25% worse than average. The Frisbee twins are rated least reliable of all "Sporty Cars" listed by the Consumer Reports customer survey. The Scion FR-S is about 45% below average reliability while the Subaru is about 78% less than average. If I were thinking DD plus fun and/or had a small repair budget, I'd have to consider repair costs and down time in my purchase decisions.

The issues that Consumer Reports think effect 'reliability' of vehicles are idiotic and have not much to do with true reliability of the vehicle. Serious mechanical issues and factors which would render the vehicle not operational and leave you stranded is true reliability. And how the heck can Subaru BRZ be LESS 'reliable' than the Scion FRS; it's the same car built in the exact same manufacturing plant with the same workers and equipment and tested the same.

My FRS hasn't been perfect...visited the dealership twice for issues (replace failing/failed computer and trying to get service for what I suspect is a failing Bank 1 coil pack [unfortunately the Check Engine light doesn't stay on long enough for the dealership to be able to see it by the time I'm able to get to them). At no time could I not drive the car like normal in the past nearly 3 years. I don't baby the car under warranty - warranty period should be treated like a 3 year high stress test time when you want the issues to come out and taken care of on the manufacturers dime. I will say the car is definitely more Subaru than Toyota when it comes to build quality and absolute trust in it being robust. Was leery when it was announced the car would have a Subaru boxer motor...one of the quirkiest Japanese motors available. I wanted a Toyota/Yamaha power plant! But I'm okay with the FA20 motor...has more advantages than disadvantages compared to previous NA Subaru Boxer motors I've dealt with...

MrChaos
MrChaos GRM+ Memberand Reader
11/6/14 8:48 p.m.
Vracer111 wrote: I will say the car is definitely more Subaru than Toyota when it comes to build quality and absolute trust in it being robust.

see this is this is the main reason I am hesitant about the twins. Subaru isnt known for having reliable engines and transmissions. I can look on my local cl and find a ton of subarus needing a tranny or head gaskets or a new engine all with less than 150k miles.

Mr_Clutch42
Mr_Clutch42 Dork
11/6/14 10:15 p.m.
MrChaos wrote: I could get this and then a miata later http://www.japaneseclassicsllc.com/1989-nissan-skyline-r32-gts-t-type-m-4-door-5-mt-12995---available-now.html

Someone on this forum imported that generation Skyline from Japan sometime this year, I want to say it was in the summer. He wrote about the whole process, and it wasn't that expensive at all. Do a search on importing a car in this forum search bar. From what I remember, it cost much less than that car is listed for.

MrChaos
MrChaos GRM+ Memberand Reader
11/6/14 10:34 p.m.

In reply to Mr_Clutch42:

yes but that car is already registered and titled in the US so that takes all the head ache away, and i think it was that 4wd turbo mitsu van that you are thinking of.

Knurled
Knurled GRM+ Memberand PowerDork
11/7/14 6:09 a.m.
MrChaos wrote: In reply to Mr_Clutch42: yes but that car is already registered and titled in the US so that takes all the head ache away, and i think it was that 4wd turbo mitsu van that you are thinking of.

kanaric imported an R32 this year. A GT-S or GT-T. Anyway, he posted a "how I did it" thread as well as a thread in the projects section.

maj75
maj75 Reader
11/8/14 6:12 p.m.

I've been on track at Sebring in a FRS at the same time as a Genesis 2.0t. I wasn't impressed and was able to run faster lap times even though the Genesis was faster on the straights. FRS had a tune, lowered and race brake pads and lines. The FRS is just fun to drive on the track, no matter if it's stock or modified.

kanaric
kanaric Dork
11/9/14 10:41 a.m.
MrChaos wrote: In reply to Mr_Clutch42: yes but that car is already registered and titled in the US so that takes all the head ache away, and i think it was that 4wd turbo mitsu van that you are thinking of.

Importing isn't as hard as you might think. Especially if you use an experienced importer instead of doing it yourself like I did. It opens up so many car options you otherwise couldn't have had. It just takes time. All you have to do is wait and make sure your paperwork is in order. I was one of the first American imports from the company used so it was a learning experience for him, if you use the same guy yo will have an even easier time than I.

That Skyline you posted is ABSURDLY expensive. You can get a GTR for that. I paid $7000 to my door for mine.

For $13,000 I would get an Alpina BMW E30 with M30 engine, Lancia Delta Integrale, or GTR. Or maybe an 80s Renault Alpine or Sierra Cosworth. No JDM car will be this much. NSX and GTR are the exceptions. You are at high end 80s euro territory at that price.

Knurled wrote:
MrChaos wrote: In reply to Mr_Clutch42: yes but that car is already registered and titled in the US so that takes all the head ache away, and i think it was that 4wd turbo mitsu van that you are thinking of.
kanaric imported an R32 this year. A GT-S or GT-T. Anyway, he posted a "how I did it" thread as well as a thread in the projects section.

yup, really importing is a more of a "budget" option for sought after cars, not paying $12k lol.

I was actually at a "meet" on Wednesday in the south side of Las Vegas and people there told me that there was a stealership in Cali that was selling my car for $14k. I didn't think it was real until now. That is insane. Double what I paid.

It's just more proof that you should just import what you want. www.pacificcoastjdm.com

Be prepared even if the car looks perfect it will need some work because it's 25 years old. Mine had a cooling issue and the driver side window regulator just broke. Both fixed. Really for a car this old that is quite good. The car is the best condition older car i've ever bought.

Rupert wrote: In reply to MrChaos: That Skyline looks great!! Repair parts might be an issue.

They are not surprisingly.

First of all the RB series engines are a popular swap here. Anything engine related is readily available for little money.

Importing aftermarket parts from the UK, Japan, or Australia is inexpensive. Most import aftermarket parts like prefab intercoolers are marked up in the US for shipping from Japan already. I paid $500 for what is here an $800 Blitz intercooler from Japan and bought a bunch of parts which ended up keeping shipping down and saved money. Keep in mind you can have a 3in exhaust fabricated at a muffler shop for next to nothing.

It shares a lot of parts with USDM cars. 300ZX, S13 240SX, Infinity G20. Basically has S13 rear with G20 front suspension. 300zx brakes. Anything unique to the car can be bought from canada. I bought a new alternator locally for this car, since the engine is used here, for cheap. Nissan Quest alternators can be modified to fit. LSx coils can be modified to fit the engine and is a popular "upgrade" in Australia because RB coils are expensive everywhere and LSx coils are cheap everywhere.

Really parts is not an issue at all. The only issue you might have are on trim pieces but i've managed to replace every leather trim in the car on the super-cheap from the UK on ebay. There is Canadian company that stocks Skyline parts as well that I found however I haven't needed them yet. Bought my replacement window regulator, was refurbished for $70, on ebay from Canada.

Some parts might be a bit more expensive than other cars but that is a world wide issue with Skylines. Most things, however, are cheap unless you have a GTR.

kanaric
kanaric Dork
11/9/14 11:11 a.m.

As far as aftermarket, power upgrade path for RB20 skyline is:

(~250-280hp not whp)

3in exhaust

Front Mount intercooler

boost controller

nistune/apexi power fc or other engine management.

That is what I have on my car now or is going in soon. Turbos are not to produce more PSI than around 13-14 due to the wheels being weak. I have a turbo back exhaust made up of stuff I bought prefab. Kakimoto cat back, catless downpipe from the UK, and a Tomei turbo elbow.

(280-350hp)

All the above plus:

turbo upgrade (rebuilt R33 turbo is cheapest option) - can be acquired anywhere, kinugawa makes Skyline 6 bolt exhaust housings, they are in the US. Series 1 R33 turbo has smaller housing than S2 and are considered better if you want more response.

Z32 300ZX MAF conversion.

Injectors/fuel pump

recommended upgrades at that point:

ARP head studs

Exhaust Cam gear (properly tuned brings on boost about 500-700rpm earlier with dyno evidence on SAU)

Any power over this people swap in RB25s. RB20 becomes horribly laggy with larger turbos.

At that power level the transmission can become unreliable. R33 unit swaps in with some modding. However plenty of people run them fine on the track, just not launching the car all ridiculous all the time. The engine internals are extremely stout and should have no issues other than high PSI and the head.

All this info is from my reading Skylines Australia for over a year.

http://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103095-rb20-turbo-upgrade-all-dyno-results/page-20

There's a good thread on what can be done with the RB20. That is also by far the best Skyline website.

Other items?:

Wheels: you can put 350Z wheels on which I did, R32 and R33 GTR wheels will fit and are forged/lightweight. All are inexpensive. Generally likes +30-+35 offset. Running maximum possible tire with rolled rear fenders which is 235/45/17 on front 255/40/17 rear. You will not fit any more than that without extensive modding. Kumho Ecsta XS on the car.

Suspension: This gets tricky so I haven't done it yet. Stock suspension is fine for now for me it rides and handles far better than any car i've owned including my modded 350z as it sits now so i haven't felt the need to upgrade yet. Whiteline apparently sells sways and the bilstein models that work are listed on the SAU site. All you need then is springs which eibach used to sell but haven't seen them available.

Body: A FMIC will not fit without cutting the bumper. A GTR front bumper will fit but you have to cut the bumper bar or buy a GTR one. A fiber glass gtr replica bumper is made that fits better than a GTR does (gtr one is meant for wide body), as well as others all of which I find tasteless.

Other: Hicas (4 wheel steering) can be removed if it's a problem, it's generally not worth fixing. You need a disabler bar that is readily available. Drifters do this as a upgrade so they are all over. Coils are known to go bad so that is one of the first things to check if the car is running like E36 M3. Other than the car is not known for any issues particular to it. They are generally considered overbuilt and reliable.

Lesson I learned: DO NOT put a lot of electronic accessories on this car. The alternator is very low output and it will cause serious issues. Keep stock clutch fan and don't put subs or any serious audio E36 M3 in. Nissan Quest alternator can be modded to fit to resolve this. GTR one will not.

MrChaos
MrChaos GRM+ Memberand Reader
11/12/14 10:51 p.m.

Looking around it seems that I have a decent amount of NC miatas and Sky/Solstice's in my price/mileage range. Any info on the Solstice or Sky's?

turtl631
turtl631 Reader
11/13/14 6:36 a.m.

I just got a 2007 S2000, they are relatively expensive but values are holding strong. You won't get significant depreciation at this point. The cars are nicely put together and have enough power and suspension poise that you don't really need to mod. With 06+ cars, you can get a Flashpro and test pipe or high flow cat to get a nice bump in midrange power for a reasonable outlay. Plus it's a convertible and from the era of good Hondas. I'm very happy but had serious lust for these things for a looong time, YMMV.

Rupert
Rupert HalfDork
11/14/14 9:56 a.m.

In reply to turtl631:

Sounds like a nice ride! Good for You!

Mr_Clutch42
Mr_Clutch42 Dork
11/15/14 6:24 a.m.

In reply to kanaric: What's the name of your thread you made about importing your Skyline?

ae86andkp61
ae86andkp61 GRM+ Memberand Reader
11/20/14 1:52 a.m.
rotard wrote: I've owned both (2013 Club/2015 FRS), and they're pretty even in the 1/4 mile. Performance is so close, especially on the street, that I'd let the roof issue be the deciding factor.

Exactly! The roof as the deciding factor is why I bought an FR-S. After spending over a decade staring at Miatas and S2000s and thinking that the RWD and lightweight would be fun, when a manufacturer stepped up and built a light sports car also useable as a daily driver, I put my money where my mouth was and bought an FR-S. It has been great! If convertibles are exciting for you, get a Miata. If a coupe 2+2 is more appealing get an FR-S.

Oh, and for MrChaos...the twins don't have a Subaru transmission. It is an Aisin, the basic architecture of which might be recognize able from a Lexus IS or a Toyota Altezza. A version of it was also sold to Mazda for.....the Miata and RX-8.

LanEvo
LanEvo GRM+ Memberand Reader
11/20/14 7:53 a.m.

I picked up a 2010 E90 335xi for under $30k through BMW's CPO program. Only 23k miles on the clock with full service history, warranty, etc. Mine is an AWD automatic sedan (wife-and-baby friendly) but you can find RWD manual coupes as well. You can probably find a similar deal on a Boxster. Or a 1-series coupe. Maybe not a 135i, but a 128i for sure.

Something to think about.

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