Miatas...

z31maniac wrote: Would be nice! I ended up with a 1.6 with an open because the 1.8 Torsen cars tend to be 2x the price where I live. For the $2500 difference, I can do a Torsen swap and a 99-00 engine swap.

Sure, a 90 is gonna cost less than an NB, but swapping the NB drivetrain into a 90 is still gonna leave you with a 10-year-older chassis, probably with a bunch more miles on it, paint in worse condition, etc etc.

My point is that if you go out and look at two cars, same year, same miles, same condition, but one has a Torsen and one has an open diff, the Torsen isn't gonna cost you any more. It certainly doesn't add a grand to the value of a used Miata!

Now that MS3 and the VVT-tuner can both control VVT, the 02+ cars are a viable option too.

codrus wrote:

z31maniac wrote: Would be nice! I ended up with a 1.6 with an open because the 1.8 Torsen cars tend to be 2x the price where I live. For the $2500 difference, I can do a Torsen swap and a 99-00 engine swap.

Sure, a 90 is gonna cost less than an NB, but swapping the NB drivetrain into a 90 is still gonna leave you with a 10-year-older chassis, probably with a bunch more miles on it, paint in worse condition, etc etc. My point is that if you go out and look at two cars, same year, same miles, same condition, but one has a Torsen and one has an open diff, the Torsen isn't gonna cost you any more. It certainly doesn't add a grand to the value of a used Miata!

True. Depends on what you want to do with.

Leather and nice paint is irrelevant for a track rat.

Wow, surprised to see many responses.

The reason i asked about leather was because I was wondering if it becomes a nuisance in the summer with the top down. Like if it gets hotter than the black cloth or too cold in the winter. Im located in CT and I was looking at miatas before and my priorities changed, but now I want one again regardless. I have the money ready I'm just waiting for one I like to pop up and I will buy it. Just wondering about some factory options you guys think are must have.

And I'll fit in one it just fine, I'm 5'3" 150 pounds.

A/c is nice though I didn't use it once last year, and central VA isn't terribly cool in the summer. I will likely remove it soon, since I have removed most other creature comforts. Still fun on the streets. Didn't like leather, hit in the summer, cold in the winter, and always slippery. Don't care if it has a Torsen or not on the street. Power windows are nice, power steering is nice if you are going to add wider sticky tires. For a street car that will be fair weather, get a soft top, it's nice to drive topless, and it's one of the few things I am considering reversing on my car.

Black leather gets really hot in summer. I just don't put the top down anymore. Ever.

Tan isnt as bad, but is ugly. If I were to do this again (and I wouldnt), I'd get an 02se for the mocha brown leather interior or a 10ae for the blue. Black leather sucks in a vert.

I run the VLSD in both my F Prod. and my street Miata. Both are '90's running on 205/50-15's. I've never felt the need for a Torsen, or even a Mazdacomp diff, at any time.

My NC had tan leather. I live in PA, and summers will get in the low-mid 90's. Sure, it got warm in the summer, but it was never so hot that I couldn't bear sitting on it . Same with winter. It was cold at first to sit on, but not a whole lot worse than cloth and it warmed up fairly quick.

As for being slippery, I never got thrown out of the car while taking a corner, so I guess it can't be that bad.

Having said all that, my NA has cloth and I'm very happy with it.

racerfink wrote: I run the VLSD in both my F Prod. and my street Miata. Both are '90's running on 205/50-15's. I've never felt the need for a Torsen, or even a Mazdacomp diff, at any time.

I run an open diff on my '90 on 205/50 R888s........even in tight 2nd gear corners over the curbs I don't get any wheelspin.

Alan Cesar wrote: Find an NC in a color you like. Write check. Go home.

This.

I just found a gem of a Winning Blue GT that was hiding away in a dealer in NJ.

Since the OP did state he was looking primarily as a DD, I will say the 6 speed I've found 2nd gear is good for 5mph to 40. Very nice when rush hour crawls.

It is a bit rough changing gears when cold, but supposedly Motorcraft gear oil will help remedy this. Hadn't had a chance to try it myself yet though.

I've owned 20+ miatas and for a DD I would buy an NC. The paddle shift auto is not terrible but a 6 speed manual would probably still be more fun. My current DD is a 10AE and I agree about the gearing not being ideal.

As far as a torsen goes, they are out there if you look. The last one I bought out of a 00' I paid $75 for at the U-Pull it. NB's are starting to show up there more and more.

z31maniac wrote: I run an open diff on my '90 on 205/50 R888s........even in tight 2nd gear corners over the curbs I don't get any wheelspin.

Stock motor? If so, then that's because you've got lots of grip and a car that's underpowered even by Miata standards. :)

codrus wrote:

z31maniac wrote: I run an open diff on my '90 on 205/50 R888s........even in tight 2nd gear corners over the curbs I don't get any wheelspin.

Stock motor? If so, then that's because you've got lots of grip and a car that's underpowered even by Miata standards. :)

Zactly.... All I get is wheel spin with my open diff.

-Hamid

I recently picked up a red 95 with leather. I just needed any car and figured a decent miata was in my sub 4k price range. Yes and no. Most cars I saw were severely neglected. Ever tried gumbo colored coolant? Many sold before I could see 'em.

I took a chance on a CL ad (located in the hood, close to me) with no pictures -- mainly because even the worst cars took good pics. I didn't really want red, leather or non-zip widow, but the car was a decent mile 1.8 with torsen. It was leaking oil (VCG, CAS) and coolant (old hoses) smelled moldy, had ripped seats and non-working head unit. I'd spend the same $500 or so getting just about any car up to rude health, so I wasn't put off by the lack of love under the hood. It had good bones and rode well, even on a set of Good Ride Radials.

The used miata market in my area is brisk and filled with crappy cars. The guy asking $4400 for a clean 91 mariner with hardtop doesn't sound so crazy now. It must be even worse for people looking for s2000s.

racerfink wrote: I run the VLSD in both my F Prod. and my street Miata. Both are '90's running on 205/50-15's. I've never felt the need for a Torsen, or even a Mazdacomp diff, at any time.

Try launching it at an autocross. I've seen them blow up with even 195 street tires at autocrosses. I'm wondering how long mine will last in my DP car.

I live the new MX 5 with the power top. This one with the black rims look hot

I'm in CT also, I think I've used the A/C once since I bought mine in 2010. I wouldn't worry about it. But then again, I also did a 7-hr drive through New Jersey in July with the top down, so I might not be the best guy to listen to in that regard.

I have a 1990 which will have a Mazdaspeed drivetrain and rear subframe assembly when its done (see my profile). I'm using this as inspiration, and the benefit is that when I'm done I'll have the better mechanicals of the MSM with the lighter, better looking chassis of the early NA. However, this is a pretty involved project. If you just want something to drive around in and have fun, buy the cleanest NB or 1.8 NA you can find.

TL;DR: Buy a 1.6 car if you want a long-term project, otherwise just save and get a 1.8 NA or NB

If you're going to go on track, stay away from the power hardtop cars. You basically can't install any rollover protection.

It's the ring and pinion that's weak on the 1.6, not the diff. So open or VLSD makes no difference for strength. I'd recommend buying a 1.8 as they have the stronger rear (and a Torsen, most likely), bigger brakes and 10% more power. My favorite gearset is the 5-speed with a 4.10, which is 1994-97. I do prefer the 1.6 interior although you're not going to find a junkyard replacement for the radio surround or the gauge cover - they're all broken.

I'd skip the 1999-00. Too blobby for my eyes and the headlights suck. The 2001 redesign added a bunch of extra stiffness and refinement. VVT is nothing to be scared of.

BTW, there's no reason to put a MSM rear subframe in an NA unless you want the subframe bracing. The geometry of the subframe is the same - although the rear uprights will give you an extra 10mm of track, which means more difficulty fitting big tires. Plus the MSM turbo is nothing to write home about. I've got a MSM engine in my 1990, but with a better turbo :)

^ I'm aware of that, but since I'm swapping over the torsen diff, brakes, and sway bar, I figure I might as well clean up the subframe and put that in as well. As for the turbo, I'm actually planning on staying N/A for now to make the swap easier. Plus, selling off the turbo stuff will recover most of the cost of the donor car. I wouldn't have even bothered with the Mazdaspeed over a regular NB, but I found an entire donor car for challenge pricing. I agree that normally it doesn't make sense to pay extra for the MSM stuff, but in this situation its worked out nicely.

Thanks for the info, no I don't plan on taking it to the track. Yes, I personally have been looking for a 1.8 5 speed NA, I prefer the body style.