1 2
PseudoSport
PseudoSport HalfDork
10/5/12 9:26 a.m.

I’m looking at a 2001 Chevy 1500 4X4 Z71 step side this weekend. I don’t know too much about this generation of truck and was curious about any common problems. So far I know the truck needs brakes all around and the passenger window won’t go down. I’ve read that the rear brake backing plates like to rust off and something about an ABS sensors issue. What else do I need to know?

Also I asked the guy selling it what engine it has and all he said was “V8”. Don’t know if it’s a 4.8L or 5.3L and honestly I’d be happy with either. Is there an LS guide for dummies kicking around the interwebs? I never bothered to learn anything about the LS engines other that they fit into everything.

Ranger50
Ranger50 UltraDork
10/5/12 10:08 a.m.

"Should" be a 5.3. I know 4.8 4x4's exist, but more times then not, it is a 5.3.

Correct on the backing plates and rust buildup on the front ABS sensors in the hubs.

If the trans has been never serviced, don't expect to get many more miles above 125k or so, unless it is all freeway.

The lower steering shafts like to wear out and cause a clunk over bumps. Inner and outer tierods are hit and miss. They are undersized from the factory for a 4x4.

That is what i can think of off the top of my head.

Kenny_McCormic
Kenny_McCormic Reader
10/5/12 10:20 a.m.

You can figure out which engine it left the factory with by the vin number, 7th digit IIRC. There are no visible external differences AFAIK, the piston design and stroke are the big differences.

They are solid trucks with solid engines for the most part, the 5.3 has a few oil pump issues with bypass failure, but this usually happens slowly and doesn't hurt anything. The 4L60e will run for 250k+ if kept cool and full of fresh fluid.

Ranger50
Ranger50 UltraDork
10/5/12 10:23 a.m.

Oh and as long as it hasn't been wrecked, the core support should have the emissions sticker stating the engine size on it.

Pbw
Pbw New Reader
10/5/12 10:41 a.m.

Check for missing coolant, the 01-04 5.3 and 4.8 engines with Castech heads have issue with cracking heads. GM TSB GM's TSB #06-06-01-019B.

http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/Bluegorilla/2008-12-05_142924_Coolant_loss_5.3.pdf

Keith Tanner
Keith Tanner GRM+ Memberand MegaDork
10/5/12 10:44 a.m.

If you want to know what's bad about them, buy it. Then every person you meet will be happy to tell you how much Chevy trucks suck and how much trouble they are. At least, that was my experience when I got my truck. It was odd.

LS engines for dummies, go to Wikipedia. That'll help identify the engine without needing the VIN too. If you want to know how to make power out of them, that's a deep, deep hole.

PseudoSport
PseudoSport HalfDork
10/5/12 10:45 a.m.

Truck has 150K on it and looks pretty clean in pictures. No rust or dents that I can see. For $1,800 I’m sure it will need some work but hopefully nothing major. Even if I have to put a transmission in it down the road I think I could always sell it for more then what I’ll have into it.

My thought is to pick this truck up and use it as a daily driver if it’s solid then sell my 2011 Frontier and loose the truck payment.

yamaha
yamaha Dork
10/5/12 11:26 a.m.

fuel pump/sender......thats all I'd be worried about aside from the trans

HiTempguy
HiTempguy SuperDork
10/5/12 11:26 a.m.

There are bearings in the t-case that typically go south by 175,000kms. I don't know if that is a later (03-07) models, but it happens in EVERY, SINGLE TRUCK.

$1800 is a screaming deal though, I am super jelly.

bravenrace
bravenrace PowerDork
10/5/12 11:34 a.m.
Keith Tanner wrote: If you want to know what's bad about them, buy it. Then every person you meet will be happy to tell you how much Chevy trucks suck and how much trouble they are. At least, that was my experience when I got my truck. It was odd. LS engines for dummies, go to Wikipedia. That'll help identify the engine without needing the VIN too. If you want to know how to make power out of them, that's a deep, deep hole.

This has been my experience also. I love my truck when everything is working fine, but they do have their problems. Most common are:

  • Piston slap - Make sure you get to start it up cold before you buy, as this is a VERY common problem.

  • Transmission. If it hasn't been rebuilt, it will need to be at a some point. Mine needed done at 120k, and I have the stronger version.

  • Door hinges - I've had my truck for 2 years and it's ready for it's 3rd set on the drivers door.

  • Window regulators go bad on a regular basis.

  • Rust, rust, rust. Especially in the rocker panels.

novaderrik
novaderrik UltraDork
10/5/12 8:00 p.m.

no one mentioned the brakes lines that like to explode one day for no apparent reason..

other than that, they are good trucks.

my brother's got an '01 Z71 with a 5.3 that has just over 100,000 miles on it.. he's had it for 5 years and hasn't had any major issues with it... recently it decided that it want's to crank over a lot before it starts- threw my pressure gauge on it and figured it was the fuel pressure regulator, so he put one of those in.. it wasn't the problem- there is a check valve in the fuel pump that goes bad. a new pump/hangar assembly is like $300 and he doesn't have that kind of coin... i've been searching online and some people say you can just put a $10 check valve in the pressure line, but i can't seem to find a part number or any pics of one actually installed..

Travis_K
Travis_K SuperDork
10/5/12 9:37 p.m.

Many of those trucks burned when they were newer, I'm guessing that if it was going to happen it already did since I haven't seen a burned one in several years. Used to be 50+ in the junkyard when I'd go in there though.

bluej
bluej Dork
10/5/12 10:17 p.m.

NovaD, have you not been able to find a JY pump?

Like has been mentioned, easiest way to check which disp. is the vin digit. Just for reference, the easiest (only?) way to tell externally from the engine alone is to look for the tabs that stick out from the HG under the exhaust manis. They'll say 4.8 or 5.3 but in my experience are corroded at that age and more difficult to read, especially on a running vehicle where they are harder to get to vs. a JY.

Does sound a good deal at that price if you're expecting to put a little work in post purchase.

Flight Service
Flight Service UltraDork
10/5/12 11:09 p.m.

From my chevy dude at work, if it has been worked the tranny will need a rebuild soon,

Ranger50 seemed to hit all the high points.

novaderrik
novaderrik UltraDork
10/6/12 12:09 a.m.
bluej wrote: NovaD, have you not been able to find a JY pump? .

we're not going to go thru the hassle of dropping the tank or lifting the bed off just to put a pump in it that could decide to go bad in a week. the truck runs fine now once it starts- it just loses pressure really fast when shut off. it's his wife's daily driver- which means it has 2 car seats in it, with a third coming in November (yes- that's right.. they will have 3 car seats in an extended cab Chevy truck..) so it needs to be reliable.. i'm trying to figure out which check valve to get to fix it on the cheap.

bluej
bluej Dork
10/6/12 1:13 a.m.

Well then.

I agree, it Is a pain to drop the tank.

chandlerGTi
chandlerGTi HalfDork
10/6/12 7:57 a.m.

I just remember getting half way through changing spark plugs on one of mine ( had 99 and 04) and looking at the back drivers side one thinking oh crap. No issues on either of those trucks, I traded them off at 100k.

bravenrace
bravenrace PowerDork
10/6/12 8:08 a.m.

In reply to novaderrik:

If you are talking about the brake lines that run along the outside of the frame rail under the driver's door, I forgot about those. Mine rusted out and burst while making a panic stop on the freeway. Fortunately I was able to stop, but had no brakes after that point because all the fluid came out during the panic stop. But like I said - Rust, rust, rust. One of my fuel tank straps also rusted out and I almost lost my fuel tank! Rust, rust, rust.

slopecarver
slopecarver New Reader
10/6/12 8:32 a.m.

small bed on a big truck.... no thank you. I have a stepside on an already small truck and it's idiotic to waste potential bed space.

AutoXR
AutoXR HalfDork
10/6/12 8:55 a.m.

Paid 2 K for mine 5 mos ago and love it. Needed cat converters ($500 for an oem style pipe) 02 sensor. Has the ABS issue that I need to fix as well as the gas gauge...I just reset the OD.

has 120,000 miles on it (190k)

Keith Tanner
Keith Tanner GRM+ Memberand MegaDork
10/6/12 10:06 a.m.
bravenrace wrote:
Keith Tanner wrote: If you want to know what's bad about them, buy it. Then every person you meet will be happy to tell you how much Chevy trucks suck and how much trouble they are. At least, that was my experience when I got my truck. It was odd. LS engines for dummies, go to Wikipedia. That'll help identify the engine without needing the VIN too. If you want to know how to make power out of them, that's a deep, deep hole.
This has been my experience also. I love my truck when everything is working fine, but they do have their problems. Most common are: - Piston slap - Make sure you get to start it up cold before you buy, as this is a VERY common problem. - Transmission. If it hasn't been rebuilt, it will need to be at a some point. Mine needed done at 120k, and I have the stronger version. - Door hinges - I've had my truck for 2 years and it's ready for it's 3rd set on the drivers door. - Window regulators go bad on a regular basis. - Rust, rust, rust. Especially in the rocker panels.

I should point out that onlooker comments have no relationship to what kind of truck you buy. No matter what it is, people will feel it's their responsibility to tell you - unasked - how much trouble it's going to be. At least, that's the case around here where a truck is a working machine as opposed to a fashion accessory.

bravenrace
bravenrace PowerDork
10/6/12 1:28 p.m.

In reply to Keith Tanner:

Yes, I know. And I guess I'm doing the same, although he did ask.

glueguy
glueguy GRM+ Memberand Reader
10/6/12 4:14 p.m.
PseudoSport wrote: and the passenger window won’t go down.

these are notorious bad for window regulators. Cheap and plentiful on eBay, youtube to walk you through it, no biggie.

novaderrik
novaderrik UltraDork
10/6/12 4:15 p.m.
Keith Tanner wrote:
bravenrace wrote:
Keith Tanner wrote: If you want to know what's bad about them, buy it. Then every person you meet will be happy to tell you how much Chevy trucks suck and how much trouble they are. At least, that was my experience when I got my truck. It was odd. LS engines for dummies, go to Wikipedia. That'll help identify the engine without needing the VIN too. If you want to know how to make power out of them, that's a deep, deep hole.
This has been my experience also. I love my truck when everything is working fine, but they do have their problems. Most common are: - Piston slap - Make sure you get to start it up cold before you buy, as this is a VERY common problem. - Transmission. If it hasn't been rebuilt, it will need to be at a some point. Mine needed done at 120k, and I have the stronger version. - Door hinges - I've had my truck for 2 years and it's ready for it's 3rd set on the drivers door. - Window regulators go bad on a regular basis. - Rust, rust, rust. Especially in the rocker panels.
I should point out that onlooker comments have no relationship to what kind of truck you buy. No matter what it is, people will feel it's their responsibility to tell you - unasked - how much trouble it's going to be. At least, that's the case around here where a truck is a working machine as opposed to a fashion accessory.

the OP was about "Common problems" with this style of truck.. we pointed out the common problems to look out for and even some solutions...

Keith Tanner
Keith Tanner GRM+ Memberand MegaDork
10/7/12 1:04 a.m.

Never mind, I was commenting on society at large. I have no input on what goes wrong with a Chevy, as I've never owned one and thus have not been educated by everyone else as to what will go wrong.

1 2

You'll need to log in to post.

Our Preferred Partners
lfEQwh98uOMFYgXBmVKtxu9Hm1DoBqzGK9QUvxqDmJmFj3OBG1Mq0PZTAadVa9bv