Saw a 78 datsun 280z on craigslist and was thinking about taking a look at it. Now besides the rust issues what else should I know about these cars?
Saw a 78 datsun 280z on craigslist and was thinking about taking a look at it. Now besides the rust issues what else should I know about these cars?
Fuel tank rust can be a problem with these cars. If the tank is rusty it clogs up the fuel filter and the car stops running. The suspension and steering rack bushings wear out, but it is pretty straightforward to replace everything. And if Per is involved, the work can move pretty quickly.
Pretty bulletproof otherwise.
Just about everything you need for it will be available via the web. Aftermarket, restoration and go fast stuff is all out there. Great support and a terrific knowledge base too. Looks like prices are on the rise after years of being in the basement so look out for abuse/neglect. The stock Bosch EFI system can be a bit finicky but is fairly easy to troubleshoot and work on. You'll love it.
Black Dragon has many useful bits.
My Father had a 260.. they are NICE cars. The 280 should be even more refined and nicer than his 260..
you looking at a 2 seater or a 2+2?
The 280 is the heaviest of all of the S30's because they were reinforced more than the 240/260. The L-Series motor is one of the easiest to work on and are virtually bulletproof. The interior is getting kind of hard to find now, so try to make sure as much of the interior is there. The stock brakes are adequate for AutoX, and road racing as long as everything is in working condition. Other than that stuff, go and have fun.
Rust, rust and more rust. All else is fixable. Well, rust is fixable too, but its time consuming and dirty to fabricate a car from mig wire...
Streetwiseguy wrote: Well, rust is fixable too, but its time consuming and dirty to fabricate a car from mig wire...
This deserves to go in the magazine. 
You need to know it's not an E30!
Seriously, someone sell this guy an E30.
In reply to MA$$hole:
He likes these almost as much as an E30, believe it or not. 
Rust, ESPECIALLY on the frame rails holding the engine/transmission in the car. DO NOT buy a vintage "Z" without getting it onto a rack with a strong light and a tool for poking into nooks and crannies.
Also, avoid 2+2 models. They are generally the same, but there are enough "special" parts used by the 2 to make owning one that is not perfect a small or even large headache.
Finally, these car be very much the handful due to their manual steering and somewhat heavy front end/bumpers.
Like everyone else said, it's rust, rust and more rust. Everything else is fixable and just normal old car stuff. They rust everywhere, especially the lower fenders, below the battery, the hatch area, below the tail lights, bottoms of the doors, floor plans, frame rails, hood hinge areas, windshield frame, anywhere there is metal basically. Check it all and then be prepared to find rust even though you think you may not have any.
It's hard to find one without dents in the roof line, but try.
Made plans to look at the car tomorrow morning. Here is the car in question. It started off at $2,300 and has dropped a few hundred every other day.
http://boston.craigslist.org/gbs/cto/2424621957.html
dents in the roofline? That seems a weird place to find dents.
If I can find a mostly rust free fiat.. I am sure he can find a mostly rust free Z
If it's truly a west coast car, it won't be rusty. I have some mint black seats that I'd be willing sell 
2 minor points:
I may be wrong, but it looks like something is missing around the shifter boot, and if it is you will be at the mercy of a fair amount of exhaust and/or gasoline fumes.
It's my personal feeling that anyone who "hacks" a hole in the roof of a vintage sports car needs a bit of their "manhood" hacked off.
Yeah, leaky aftermarket sun/moon roofs lead to many other problems with moisture trapped inside the car.
Also, check under the front carpets in the foot well, the rear carpets above the muffler and in the spare tire well for rust.
The only real problem with these motors is the old vacuum hoses and electrical wiring. Many fuel mileage and drive-ability problems result from minuscule vacuum leaks and corroded or internally broken down wiring that are hard to detect and track down.
I usually recommend a complete vacuum hose replacement on one of these as a start. Otherwise, I've seen people spend hundreds of dollars on new sensors that were unnecessary because they didn't want to spend the time and the $25 on new vacuum hoses...
Anyway, rant off. All problems can be solved with MS&S!
integraguy wrote: 2 minor points: I may be wrong, but it looks like something is missing around the shifter boot, and if it is you will be at the mercy of a fair amount of exhaust and/or gasoline fumes. It's my personal feeling that anyone who "hacks" a hole in the roof of a vintage sports car needs a bit of their "manhood" hacked off.
That's the way it's supposed to be.
Corroded wiring in 280Zs is usually found in the battery lead that also has the fuel injection wiring connected to it. (Sorry, I only play at being a mechanic, I don't do it for a living.) I believe it has to be the positive lead. I bought my Z in Tn. but it had spent a fair amount of time somewheres where salt is used and as a consequence corrosion developed in the wiring. Symtoms? The car would be running fine and then suddenly stop running....usually when I was in a hurry to get somewhere's important.
Blah, I didn't notice the sunroof. First thing I noticed when I got there was that the car did have a fair amount of rust. Lower fenders, rockers, bottom of the rear quaters, and top of the tail pan all needed to be replaced. Under the hood was actually pretty clean including below the battery box. The car has not been started in a few years and was parked because of a cluch issue.
The car can be saved but the sunroof made me pass on it.
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