mityvac - spring for the metal one?

Looks like I'm in the market for a hand-held pressure/vac pump. I had been bleeding with a cheap advance auto "1-man bleeder" but I think it crapped out on me finally yesterday. It must've had a bit of a one-way valve in it that didn't allow fluid to flow back into the master but now that is no longer working. I'd also like to have a tool that can help test other vacuum devices.

I think mityvac is the answer. There seems to be a plastic one for $40ish and a metal one for $70. I'm trying really hard to stop buying cheap junk tools so I want to buy the one that's going to last. Is the plastic a problem on these however? It actually seems like a place where a metal tool may not really be needed. 

Thoughts?

actually,

$60 metal https://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-MITMV8500-Silverline-Automotive-Vacuum/dp/B0002SQYUA/ref=pd_day0_hl_0_2/130-8091566-0265657?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B0002SQYUA&pd_rd_r=29b28488-549b-11e9-b6b9-cd59af5e4b95&pd_rd_w=ModmZ&pd_rd_wg=mjma6&pf_rd_p=ad07871c-e646-4161-82c7-5ed0d4c85b07&pf_rd_r=PEAVWNAMM0TQHTT5DJF0&psc=1&refRID=PEAVWNAMM0TQHTT5DJF0

$35 plastic https://www.amazon.com/MV8000-Automotive-Tune-up-Brake-Bleeding/dp/B00265M9SS

I have a plastic one and frankly I think it's kind of junky and not very useful. Always seems to leak a bit of air around the bleeder (or possibly through the threads of the bleed screw) and I usually have to give it one last go round the old fashioned way to get the pedal totally firm. So mostly I'd just skip the Mityvac altogether out of convenience. Not sure that the more expensive model would solve any of those issues.

For brake bleeding, take your $35 and instead buy a pump sprayer, pressure gauge, an extra master cylinder cap, and some lines and fittings and build yourself a power bleeder. 

In reply to Furious_E :

I've built a power bleeder and it sucked because I could never get the plastic cap to seal to the brass tube fitting correctly. I also have a motive power bleeder that I love. But I don't like that you need to buy a $40ish adapter for every different type of master you deal with. And that is my current scenario, I need to bleed a master that I don't have the motive adapter for. The motive bleeder also doesn't help me test stuff that needs to hold vacuum or needs to change with vacuum. 

Maybe I can get another cap (its an old GM one, so it's more of a 'lid') and make my own motive adapter however. Not a bad thought. 

I've used the power bleeder in a reverse bleed type arrangement and it was great. Push fluid from the bleeder screw up into the mater cylinder. Just make sure not to overflow the master (I use a turkey baster bought for the purpose to empty it out) and it works great.

Robbie said:

In reply to Furious_E :

I've built a power bleeder and it sucked because I could never get the plastic cap to seal to the brass tube fitting correctly. I also have a motive power bleeder that I love. But I don't like that you need to buy a $40ish adapter for every different type of master you deal with. And that is my current scenario, I need to bleed a master that I don't have the motive adapter for. The motive bleeder also doesn't help me test stuff that needs to hold vacuum or needs to change with vacuum. 

Maybe I can get another cap (its an old GM one, so it's more of a 'lid') and make my own motive adapter however. Not a bad thought. 

I bought the fancy Motive caps since they were a tool investment and use them with my home-built pressure bleeder.  If you want to use cheapo plastic caps, use a plastic fitting instead of brass and plastic weld, epoxy or JB Weld it in place, it should seal better and the parts are cheap enough that you can make several for the various types you need to work on.

As to your original question: I don't think the metal one makes a huge difference other than it might old up to certain types of fluids better.  Is there a rebuild kit for it?  If so that might make it worthwhile since you can replace seals, etc.

I've had a metal Mity-Vac for...  at least 15 years.  I've used it dozens (hundreds?) of times for various tasks. Most common for me was using it to prime a new fuel filter on the TDI.   Whether or not it worked for bleeding brakes has been more dependent on how well the bleed valve at the caliper/wheel cylinder seals against the threads. Sometimes, it would just pull air past the threads. 

They make a metal Mity-Vac? Hmm, I think I might have to get one, to replace my cracked, leaky plastic one. 

I've used a Vacula for close to twenty years with no problem. Just need shop air to use it.

RealMiniNoMore said:

They make a metal Mity-Vac? Hmm, I think I might have to get one, to replace my cracked, leaky plastic one. 

Yep. Although the current version is a little different than the old one I have (that I probably bought at Pep Boys).

Ian F said:

RealMiniNoMore said:

They make a metal Mity-Vac? Hmm, I think I might have to get one, to replace my cracked, leaky plastic one. 

Yep. Although the current version is a little different than the old one I have (that I probably bought at Pep Boys).

My post was more of a suggestion for Robbie to opt for the metal one, with my comments about cracks and leaks. 

But I'm still going to put the metal one in my Amazon cart... 

I have the metal one and its given me more problems than i hoped for. Had to take apart and clean/lube the pressure/vac knob since it was too stiff to turn by hand at one point. Right now the piston seal has swollen up. I guess I let some kind of non-allowed fluid get into the pump body. I sure wish somebody would just invent a pump seal that could handle contact with all the common automotive fluids without going to E36 M3. This is what has killed my old cheaper pumps as well. 

I have a metal Mity-vac and it is one tool I truly hate.   I used it once for brake fluid and it made a mess out of the whole shebang.  I am tempted to pitch it in the trash and buy a new one for just non-brake work and switch to a pressure bleeder for all my actual brake bleeding.  

dculberson said:

I've used the power bleeder in a reverse bleed type arrangement and it was great. Push fluid from the bleeder screw up into the mater cylinder. Just make sure not to overflow the master (I use a turkey baster bought for the purpose to empty it out) and it works great.

I forgot to mention, a big advantage of this is you have no need to make or buy master cylinder caps. One disadvantage is the bleeder screw threads can leak air in and fluid out, so wrapping them in a turn or two of teflon tape can really help. Just be VERY careful not to leave any teflon tape hanging over inside the bleeder. Only on the threads.

In reply to Vigo :

Odd... mine has had contact with all sort of fluids over the years: brake fluid, diesel, gasoline, etc. and still works fine.  

I keep a couple of nasty old 5-gallon Cornelius kegs around.  You can pressurize them with a bike pump, or you can pull a vac on them with a hand pump.  You can use them to pump fluid into things, pump fluid out of things, or vac out or vac through.  They have a pressure releif valve in the lid you can use to bleed off excess pressure.

Pretty much any metal or plastic cap can be drilled to install a tire valve stem.  Locking Schrader valve heads are available cheap from bike supply shops.

After a while, you accumulate a junk box of hoses and a few fittings that cover all your needs.  Brakes, auto trans fluid, diff fluid, gear oil.  I can do a cooling system flush without spilling a drop.

I've had my Motive Power Bleeder for over 15 years and it works perfectly.  One of my favorite tools!

I've got a Motive power bleeder and it's great for full brake flush, when I don't want to wait for the gravity method.  I still finish the bleed with the traditional two-man (or one man and one mildly-disappointed wife) method.

I've got a Mity-vac and it comes in handy.  It's plastic and beat to hell and still does it's job.  I'd probably buy another plastic one.

Now one miracle tool that really did turn out to be as magical as promised is the Air-lift for coolant replacement.  Holy crap, I'll now be more responsible about exchanging my coolant.  

Similar to this:

https://www.amazon.com/OEMTOOLS-27066-Cooling-System-Refiller/dp/B01GSQA5BI/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_263_tr_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=Q1HT1W9SRCC801G2A9KS

Hook it up to shop air, pull a vacuum, observe the gauge for leaks.  If none, drop the pickup hose into a 5gal bucket of coolant.  Flip the valve and voila!  Refilled cooling system and no air pockets.