Trying to figure how crazy it would be to run a sub 2000lb sub 100hp FWD mod class rally cross car with no power steering. Car will most likely be running 175/70/13 snow tires . maybe 185/60/14's
Thoughts ?
Steering wheel is up close, elbows bent good leverage NASCAR style. Also running full wrap around aluminum kirkey seat.
Was maybe thinking adding steering quickner ? More effort but less movement at steering wheel=more movement at wheels.
Car has factory manual steering rack. From center it is two turns to lock
Not totally crazy for a light and low-powered FWD car with skinny tires and a slow steering ratio...don't try the quickener until you see how much effort it takes though.
Not fwd, but pretty sure at some point the 944 tossed its power steering belt mid run and we barely noticed. Don't remember if we even bothered putting it back on. I'd think if you had a real amount of power you might want it to combat torque steer but for low power and low weight I can't see it really being a problem. Agree with one step at a time but if it's got a slow ratio manual rack it'll probably be pretty low effort to begin with and adding a mild quickener will be fine.
You pretty much just described the car that gets fastest time of the day at North TX Rallycross to a T. I can probably find some pic of Blain's car if desired. It's a red and white civic painted like the divers down flag.
parker
Reader
9/5/21 10:04 a.m.
My Neon used to toss the belt on a regular basis. Plenty of autocross runs and street driving without power steering.
The thing that sucks with a manual rack (as opposed to no power steering) is that the steering is sloooooow, which may be a detriment depending on your region's course designs. 4 turns lock to lock means you may need to turn the wheel four turns in the middle of a corner if you get crossed up or your rear suspension is too stiff and you get kicked around or something.
Sitting a little further from the wheel helps with this, and also helps avoid punching yourself in the junk if your hand slips.
My Golf was mostly as you describe, manual steering, 100hp, slightly heavier. Leverage was never an issue, steering is usually done with fingertip pressure with steering that light. I could drive around the slow steering but it was a compromise that may have hurt me time wise. On the other hand I also only ever broke one axle in the 2 years I ran the car, probably in part to my never using close to full steering lock while under power, because I couldn't.
My current fun car, does have a quickener. On a depowered power rack. It's a riot. You drive with your shoulders, not your hands. But, the bonus is you never have to take your hands off the steering wheel, ever. This is also a benefit when you find yourself having to hold the transmission in gear to keep it from popping out three or four times a run...
Prius electric column quickener is the answer
In reply to Jeff Shaffer :
A smaller wheel will get you quicker steering but require more muscle. A bigger steering wheel will get you slower steering but require less muscle.
Most ratio quickeners I've tried tend to be a little on the sloppy side.
A cheap way to speed up the steering is to shorten the steering arms on the spindles. Be careful about doing that though. If you get it wrong you can can induce bump steer. Although some cars where the geometry is wrong from the factory can benefit. ( certain Renault's for example)
In reply to frenchyd :
Smaller wheels attack the wrong problem.
The problem isn't hand travel, the problem is the arc of rotation. If it were just hand travel, you could have a very slow steering system and a doorknob.
Several of the local two-wheel drive guys who used to run manual steering have now all switched back to power, and every one of them has improved their times since. Especially in rough or rutted conditions, you can get some serious kick back with manual steering. There is literally no comparison with autocross, which generally has a predictable and smooth surface. Ymmv.
