It's gonna become my new DD after i find out why it quit running ( i suspect fuel pump) and resolve the electrical drain (I believe to be the alternator) even better.... the price $300!!!!! 102,500 original miles :-D
Man, Mazda/Ford really got their use out of that engine in the late '80s/early '90s.
Sweet Probe. I reckon that's actually a better looking car than the MX6. Very retro-futuristic.
I reckon that's actually a better looking car than the MX6.
I spy in my crystal ball this being the minority opinion.
Congrats on purchase, let us know when you find the problem and test out tha boost.
Ooh pop up headlights hatchback goodness! An '89? I prefer that front end than the later first gens... nice find. Here in CA, Every now and then 1st gen Probe GTs pops out on CL... rarely MX6s and 626 GTs.
Vigo wrote:I reckon that's actually a better looking car than the MX6.I spy in my crystal ball this being the minority opinion.
My magic 8 ball says the OP is correct and you sir are seriously wrong.
Can you get an LSD ofr these things or are they just an inside tire destroying device when boost is added?
Nice find on that 89 GT, makes me miss the one I had, it was a fun car.
Adrian, mine didn't have too much issue with inside tire spin. It could do it pretty easy if you wanted, but it didn't do it all the time. I had more issue with wheel hop in a straight line, but the shocks & suspension were worn on mine (180,000+ miles on them).
You can ask Slefain how much fun it was, I got it from him.
Jeez, you did better than me! I got my 88 mx6 GT for the princely sum of 400$, though yours is in better shape. Mine ran tho. As far as that electrical issue, check out the door switches as well. That seems to be the culprit in my car.
Adrian_Thompson wrote:Vigo wrote:My magic 8 ball says the OP is correct and you sir are seriously wrong. Can you get an LSD ofr these things or are they just an inside tire destroying device when boost is added?I reckon that's actually a better looking car than the MX6.I spy in my crystal ball this being the minority opinion.
MFactory makes one for a reasonable price.
Once boost is upped.... how do you tell which tire is the inside tire when you're going in a straight line? 2nd gear traction doesn't really happen.
z31maniac wrote:ZOO wrote: I think that engine can be fitted to a Miata . . .You have my interest.
Anywhere an F2T fits, an FE3 fits. (Strong as hell 2.0 DOHC)
Soo... vice versa.
FE3 swaps have been done in Miatas.
I'm always looking for a solid miata with a blown motor. Huge flares would be required to get enough rubber under the car to actually get my motor to hook, but i'm ok with that.
pinchvalve wrote: $300. I just spent more than that on a lawnmower. And it doesn't have a turbo...yet.
I just spent more than that on shocks I could've had another 80's mobile
92CelicaHalfTrac wrote:z31maniac wrote:Anywhere an F2T fits, an FE3 fits. (Strong as hell 2.0 DOHC) Soo... vice versa. FE3 swaps have been done in Miatas. I'm always looking for a solid miata with a blown motor. Huge flares would be required to get enough rubber under the car to actually get my motor to hook, but i'm ok with that.ZOO wrote: I think that engine can be fitted to a Miata . . .You have my interest.
iirc, the issue with putting an F2T into a RWD arrangement is with the location of the distributor, which usually interferes with the firewall. so if you were to put an f2t into a miata, you'd have to run some sort of standalone spark management that didn't use the disty.
otoh, i hear the FE3 loves boost and loves to rev.
92CelicaHalfTrac wrote: I'm always looking for a solid miata with a blown motor. Huge flares would be required to get enough rubber under the car to actually get my motor to hook, but i'm ok with that.
http://akroncanton.craigslist.org/cto/2697114192.html
He has another ad for the same car for $1300, claims no rust.
Strizzo wrote:92CelicaHalfTrac wrote:iirc, the issue with putting an F2T into a RWD arrangement is with the location of the distributor, which usually interferes with the firewall. so if you were to put an f2t into a miata, you'd have to run some sort of standalone spark management that didn't use the disty. otoh, i hear the FE3 loves boost and loves to rev.z31maniac wrote:Anywhere an F2T fits, an FE3 fits. (Strong as hell 2.0 DOHC) Soo... vice versa. FE3 swaps have been done in Miatas. I'm always looking for a solid miata with a blown motor. Huge flares would be required to get enough rubber under the car to actually get my motor to hook, but i'm ok with that.ZOO wrote: I think that engine can be fitted to a Miata . . .You have my interest.
Or just cut a hole in the firewall for the disty.
Or swap to a Bongo head, which is a 12v head set up for RWD already that bolts on.
Or run a B2200 8v head which will still make plenty of power to spin the Miata into any given ditch.
But yes.. FE3 is awesome.
I think I'd rather solve the dizzy / firewall issue with EDIS and a bandsaw.
How much power can Mazda RWD manual transmissions from the proper era handle before they pop? Can the trans out of an FD RX-7 go behind an F2T easily-ish?
pres589 wrote: I think I'd rather solve the dizzy / firewall issue with EDIS and a bandsaw. How much power can Mazda RWD manual transmissions from the proper era handle before they pop? Can the trans out of an FD RX-7 go behind an F2T easily-ish?
Don't know about FD RX7, but from what i understand, the B2200 trans and FC TII trans are fairly stout.
I would ASSume that where an FC trans goes, an FD trans would go, but i'm not real versed on the rotary world.
92CelicaHalfTrac wrote:pres589 wrote: I think I'd rather solve the dizzy / firewall issue with EDIS and a bandsaw. How much power can Mazda RWD manual transmissions from the proper era handle before they pop? Can the trans out of an FD RX-7 go behind an F2T easily-ish?Don't know about FD RX7, but from what i understand, the B2200 trans and FC TII trans are fairly stout. I would ASSume that where an FC trans goes, an FD trans would go, but i'm not real versed on the rotary world.
Nope! An FD trans is a little weird from what I understand. They use a "backward" clutch <- my term.
However, the FC TII transmission is the same gearbox as the FD transmission (with some ratios changed I think).
What I mean is that the FD and TII trans are the same strength. You CAN blow them up but it is not like they are glass. I would say better than a T5 non-WC.
pres589 wrote: I think I'd rather solve the dizzy / firewall issue with EDIS and a bandsaw. How much power can Mazda RWD manual transmissions from the proper era handle before they pop? Can the trans out of an FD RX-7 go behind an F2T easily-ish?
They can handle a butt load of hp! However, I am not sure if too many people have actually tried to put a bunhc of torque through them (ya know, with the rotary).
I have "heard" of people running upwards of 450 hp and not hurting them.
The 20B people use the stock TII tranny in some cases.
My answer is: 400 hp and 275 lb*ft of torque reliably.
This is out of my ass based on my experience with this tranny and what I have heard.
YMMV
wvumtnbkr wrote:pres589 wrote: I think I'd rather solve the dizzy / firewall issue with EDIS and a bandsaw. How much power can Mazda RWD manual transmissions from the proper era handle before they pop? Can the trans out of an FD RX-7 go behind an F2T easily-ish?They can handle a butt load of hp! However, I am not sure if too many people have actually tried to put a bunhc of torque through them (ya know, with the rotary). I have "heard" of people running upwards of 450 hp and not hurting them. The 20B people use the stock TII tranny in some cases. My answer is: 400 hp and 275 lb*ft of torque reliably. This is out of my ass based on my experience with this tranny and what I have heard. YMMV
Yep, that's the great unknown, kindof. There's a couple STRONG F2T B2200 trucks running around with no reported issues.
Buuuut... an F2T will reverse those power numbers you said up there.
275hp, 400tq.
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