In reply to 03Panther :
I think that the battery on concrete thing is from when batteries had some sort of asphalt type case, way back in the day and may have had some legitimacy then. Not so for the past several decades with plastic battery exteriors.
M2Pilot said:In reply to 03Panther :
I think that the battery on concrete thing is from when batteries had some sort of asphalt type case, way back in the day and may have had some legitimacy then. Not so for the past several decades with plastic battery exteriors.
That is correct, which is why I compared it to the the "gearbox to save brakes" as not wrong advice, just outdated.
Although your partially right... it was the wood base, not the sealant that was slightly related to asphalt.
Setting liquid acid car battery with a wooden battery on concrete, would leach the acid through the wood, much faster than sitting it on dirt or metal. "Killing" the battery faster. I'm old. Grew up around a LOT of stuff made long before I was born, and still have some of it. Even I have never seen a wood base car battery, in the wild!
03Panther said:In reply to 68TR250 :
I was an old man of 27 before I got the chance to do that. But I learned to drive a 3 on the tree in a 64 falcon (non sync 1st/rev) , then later in a 76 F250 300 6cyl. The robust trans in the 250 was synchronized in all three, but was smoother to rev match, up or down, without the clutch. So the 10/13 speeds in semis, was not a hugh learning curve for me
"So the 10/13 speeds in semis, was not a huge learning curve for me"
When the engine fan came on mid shift, it always threw me.
A friend had a job in college working at a quick-change oil place. They told him to fill the oil filters for the turbo cars but for non-turbo cars to put them on dry
In reply to jfryjfry :
I was told that too in the mid 90s. We basically were told to treat anything with a turbo as a delicate flower that could explode at any time from lack of oil.
Appleseed said:20W-50 in everything. Because its race oil. I'm glad I never followed that, even 30 years ago. The FR-S would be very, very unhappy.
As would my BMW Z4MC which requires 10/60 synthetic.
03Panther said:That is correct, which is why I compared it to the the "gearbox to save brakes" as not wrong advice, just outdated.
So I'm going to be pedantic and or ornery.
I've owned, driven and raced several cars with four wheel drum brakes. Making minor adjustments by "gearing down" and or staying in a lower gear using the gearbox to slow the car doesn't really save much wear and tear. It may well stave off brake fade for a longer period but that's something different.
Having had a complete system failure I can tell you gearing down doesn't do near as much to actual slow the car as people think.
My original post noted my idiot brother (he was a lovely guy but he was an idiot) used it to save brakes from wearing out. The advice is not relevant to passenger cars. Cars of old may have tolerated the treatment but it to my mind doesn't make it valid.
Tom1200 said:So I'm going to be pedantic and or ornery.
I've owned, driven and raced several cars with four wheel drum brakes. Making minor adjustments by "gearing down" and or staying in a lower gear using the gearbox to slow the car doesn't really save much wear and tear. It may well stave off brake fade for a longer period but that's something different.
Having had a complete system failure I can tell you gearing down doesn't do near as much to actual slow the car as people think.
My original post noted my idiot brother (he was a lovely guy but he was an idiot) used it to save brakes from wearing out. The advice is not relevant to passenger cars. Cars of old may have tolerated the treatment but it to my mind doesn't make it valid.
Effectiveness of it varies widely between cars. Some produce a significant amount of engine braking, others produce very little, especially if you don't rev it to the moon on downshifts.
In reply to rslifkin :
Totally understood.
My vintage motocross bike would fade the front brake in two laps; the routine was use the front brake for two laps, slide the bike the next two (2-strokes don't offer a whole lot of engine braking) and then use the front brake the last two laps.
When my Baja Bug had a master cylinder failure; the furious downshifting scrubbed all of 10mph before I swung off the road into the desert.
jfryjfry said:A friend had a job in college working at a quick-change oil place. They told him to fill the oil filters for the turbo cars but for non-turbo cars to put them on dry
Does adding oil to the filter benefit over time. I've been told to do it but is that a thing too?
I had a friend not take me up on trying a trick I told him about years ago. In the late '80s I had an old beater that burned enough oil to leave a visible smoke screen behind me when I gunned it. I was due for an inspection and knew it wouldn't pass,so I bought into the hype of the Slick 50 ads on TV at the time showing them running an engine empty of oil after a Slick 50 treatment. I ran Slick 50 in mine, drained all the oil, took it to the inspection station that passed it and gave me my sticker, then drove a mile or two down the road to refill it with oil. Sometimes ya gotta do what ya gotta do to get by. My friend elected not to duplicate my efforts on his car that also burned oil. But hey, mine passed, and his didn't.
Datsun240ZGuy said:jfryjfry said:A friend had a job in college working at a quick-change oil place. They told him to fill the oil filters for the turbo cars but for non-turbo cars to put them on dry
Does adding oil to the filter benefit over time. I've been told to do it but is that a thing too?
It's supposed to reduce the time it takes to pressurize the oil system since the pump has to fill the filter before it goes through the engine.
j_tso said:Datsun240ZGuy said:jfryjfry said:A friend had a job in college working at a quick-change oil place. They told him to fill the oil filters for the turbo cars but for non-turbo cars to put them on dry
Does adding oil to the filter benefit over time. I've been told to do it but is that a thing too?
It's supposed to reduce the time it takes to pressurize the oil system since the pump has to fill the filter before it goes through the engine.
That's why I do it. Changed oil on my stock 1990 Miata yesterday, the filter got filled first.
get a subscription to GRM; it's only $30 a year (they don't talk about the constant reminder that i should be at the track, the threads tempting to buy other cars, tools, the modifications I should be doing, etc. )
:)
In reply to Tom1200 :
You have misread my side. Go back to my first statement about the ' 30s.
After I made that post, folks that didn't read it, side tracked to if you can shift without a clutch.
In reply to Keith Tanner :
I have always filled filters. Including engine where the filter opening is down!
Bit messy, but the midea holds enough oil to be worth it, in my mind Does it help enough to be worth it? No clue. But using the oil pump to fill the filter before it starts doing its job, just doesn't seem like a good thing!
Also, why I would not trust 99% of the folks at a oil change place, to work on my lawnmower!
I only prefill oil filters on new engines, unless it's not possible to do so.
I have zero concern about the two or three seconds it takes for oil pressure to build. The engine's not under any load at idle. The oil pressure isn't to force the bearings away from each other, that happens all by itself just from the hydrodynamic forces inherent to a journal bearing. The oil pressure is to flow oil through the bearings to keep them cool.
Here's hoping the discussion evolves into air bearings.....
03Panther said:In reply to Tom1200 :
You have misread my side. Go back to my first statement about the ' 30s.
After I made that post, folks that didn't read it, side tracked to if you can shift without a clutch.
Actaully I caught the part about the 30s. They did indeed have terrible brakes but the issue on those is one of brake fade more so than the brakes wearing out. I drove a 40s Buick once and what an eye opener that was..................braking involved planning in modern traffic.
I am aware that in cars from the teens and early twenties, gearing down does as much as the brakes do. The brakes fade very quickly and as many of them have rear wheel brakes they aren't especially effective.
I suspect this is where the gearing down comes from.
Your point was not entirely missed on me, I did say I was being pedantic, but for me the actually of that being a thing is 100 years old.
In reply to Pete. (l33t FS) :
I view prefilling the filter as one of those things that certainly can't hurt and can only help. I'm not working flat rate on my cars, so I can afford to take the time. Not sure I'd want to do it on an engine where the filter opening is on the bottom though.
In reply to Tom1200 :
I've experienced random brake lockup on 4 wheel drum cars from the 60s. Servo type shoes work very nonlinear and things get weird when they get wet or it's humid.
4" wide bias plies didn't help 
Keith Tanner said:In reply to Pete. (l33t FS) :
I view prefilling the filter as one of those things that certainly can't hurt and can only help. I'm not working flat rate on my cars, so I can afford to take the time. Not sure I'd want to do it on an engine where the filter opening is on the bottom though.
I don't begrudge the effort, don't get me wrong. Some people do, because technically you're going to be putting unfiltered oil through the engine. (This argument amuses me greatly)
Pete. (l33t FS) said:In reply to Tom1200 :
I've experienced random brake lockup on 4 wheel drum cars from the 60s. Servo type shoes work very nonlinear and things get weird when they get wet or it's humid.
4" wide bias plies didn't help
Hey hey I won't have you besmirch skinny bias ply tires on my watch.
They are fantastic; you can set up huge slip angles and get glorious 4 wheel drifts out of them They also make the ride so that you can feel every imperfection in the road.
I suppose next you'll going on about the extra grip and predictability of radials............as if those are selling points.
Tom1200 said:I suspect this is where the gearing down comes from.
for me the actually of that being a thing is 100 years old.
Since that is what I said, without putting an exact year on it, I'm slightly confused. But, I'm confused A LOT, online 
Keith Tanner said:In reply to Pete. (l33t FS) :
I view prefilling the filter as one of those things that certainly can't hurt and can only help. I'm not working flat rate on my cars, so I can afford to take the time. Not sure I'd want to do it on an engine where the filter opening is on the bottom though.
I still do, as the filter media absorbs a lot. Fill to the top only once, let it settle/soak in, and put a shop towel or two down. Not bad at all.
And , despite being unfiltered oil, hopefully it's always unfiltered brand new oil! 
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