So I was going through RPO codes last night. I have the F41 pack, which is a nice bonus, but I also noticed the gearing. I don't remember the exact number, but I know it wat 2:2-something . Have you ever seen gearing this long before?
So I was going through RPO codes last night. I have the F41 pack, which is a nice bonus, but I also noticed the gearing. I don't remember the exact number, but I know it wat 2:2-something . Have you ever seen gearing this long before?
G_Body_Man wrote: So I was going through RPO codes last night. I have the F41 pack, which is a nice bonus, but I also noticed the gearing. I don't remember the exact number, but I know it wat 2:2-something . Have you ever seen gearing this long before?
Yes.
Not quite that bad but a DD truck I had from a while back had 2.73 rear gears. Sure quiets things down on the highway, but yeah, you're going to want to change that.
Look on the bright side. You can make a big upgrade for cheap by throwing a set of gears and install kit at the ten bolt.
I had a '70 impala with a 2.31 or 2.27 or some such. Acceleration from a stop in a 4500 lb car was, uh, compromised but it was a blast on the interstate. With your foot on the floor the old TH350 would shift 2nd - 3rd at 100MPH on the nose every time.
I think the lowest they had was 2.41. You can't just change the gears usually, because the carrier is different, so couple that with a 9" upgrade. Find that welding-buddy that's helping you with the frame and you can do both in a weekend. A 3.23 or 3.73 sounds about right for your goals.
tuna55 wrote: I think the lowest they had was 2.41. You can't just change the gears usually, because the carrier is different, so couple that with a 9" upgrade. Find that welding-buddy that's helping you with the frame and you can do both in a weekend. A 3.23 or 3.73 sounds about right for your goals.
Speaking of welding buddies, what happened to Zomby Woof? He put out an offer to help me fix my frame rail.
Some 4th gen f bodies came with 2.73 gears in the touring editions. But I agree with tuna, I think 3.73 would be optimal for you. But the 9" robs more power and cost more than a 12 bolt since its heavier. Unless you can find a good used one. On the other hand the 9" is stronger.
Bearded.Bird wrote: Some 4th gen f bodies came with 2.73 gears in the touring editions. But I agree with tuna, I think 3.73 would be optimal for you. But the 9" robs more power and cost more than a 12 bolt since its heavier. Unless you can find a good used one. On the other hand the 9" is stronger.
I saw a test in HRM or CC that dynod the 12 bolt versus the 9" and the results were way close.
Plus, the 12 bolt stinks. C clip axles are bad things.
In reply to G_Body_Man:
Yep. They have bolt-in housings that use your o.e. suspension pickup points.
IIRC, the Fox body 'stang GTs had 2.73 stock. When I bought my FFR Cobra it had them in it. Couldn't use 5th below 70mph. Switched to 3.73 and it was an entirely different car.
I am encouraged that someone so young would even ask such a question. You are truly one of us. Good for you.
I think...
My 67 Mustang had/has a 2.47 from a Lincoln Versallies along with a top loader 4-speed. As mentioned above, take-off was a challange at times...smoke the one tire or the clutch. Above legal speeds it was a nice cruiser though an really helped gas mileage. Without O/D and a ~3400-3600# car, I think you'd be happy in the 3.23-3.50 range +/- depending on what you want to give up (acceleration or gas mileage/comfotable cruising). IMHO 3.73 without O/D might take the highway enjoyment out too much, but I'm Older than I once was .
Woody wrote: I am encouraged that someone so young would even ask such a question. You are truly one of us. Good for you. I think...
hear hear!
Always good to see another good one coming into the fold.
I feel really sorry for your eventual wife.
Sooo, the easy button is a rearend out of a monte SS. They are usually a ratio in the 3.xx range AND have a LSD.
They are not hard to swap in (should literally bolt in with no changes). You will need to correct your speedo to make it accurate.
They can be had for around $200-$250.00 for the complete rearend.
Downsides:
Still a not very strong C clip rearend with drum brakes
Not a 9 Inch (9 inchers are cheap, reliable, and have a bazillion options)
Upsides:
No modifications needed.
Easy to find.
http://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/pts/4971278768.html ( A little more than I would pay, but that was 2 minutes of looking.)
I have a 3.23 Posi G body rear with reinforced diff cover sitting in my shop. If you were near me I would say make me an offer.
My D-Mod X1/9 had a 4.91:1. It was some sort of custom made Colotti box. You were usually in 3rd gear before the first cone. It was a bit buzzy on the street of course.
tuna55 wrote:Woody wrote: I am encouraged that someone so young would even ask such a question. You are truly one of us. Good for you. I think...hear hear! Always good to see another good one coming into the fold. I feel really sorry for your eventual wife.
Wife? What's that Seriously, though. I'll probably be that crazy guy with a garage AND basement full of car parts for projects I don't have yet.
wvumtnbkr wrote: Sooo, the easy button is a rearend out of a monte SS. They are usually a ratio in the 3.xx range AND have a LSD. They are not hard to swap in (should literally bolt in with no changes). You will need to correct your speedo to make it accurate. They can be had for around $200-$250.00 for the complete rearend. Downsides: Still a not very strong C clip rearend with drum brakes Not a 9 Inch (9 inchers are cheap, reliable, and have a bazillion options) Upsides: No modifications needed. Easy to find. http://pittsburgh.craigslist.org/pts/4971278768.html ( A little more than I would pay, but that was 2 minutes of looking.)
I don't have enough money for a 9", so either MCSS or 8.5 rear end for me.
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