02Pilot said:In reply to OHSCrifle :
My car came with Eibachs. I kept them, though I find they are just marginally too stiff for the street.
So you've done the Eibach, Bilstein, Koni trifecta? LOL that's a sickness.
02Pilot said:In reply to OHSCrifle :
My car came with Eibachs. I kept them, though I find they are just marginally too stiff for the street.
So you've done the Eibach, Bilstein, Koni trifecta? LOL that's a sickness.
OHSCrifle said:02Pilot said:In reply to OHSCrifle :
My car came with Eibachs. I kept them, though I find they are just marginally too stiff for the street.
So you've done the Eibach, Bilstein, Koni trifecta? LOL that's a sickness.
I prefer to think of it as a life choice.
Oil in the valvetronic eccentric shaft sensor.
But look at the bright side: no sludge!
dj06482 (Forum Supporter) said:It's always good to get a PPI (even after a purchase), I used it as a baseline when I bought my E36 (328is) years ago. I was watching that car in the classifieds, I like the color (shallow, I know), and it seemed to be in good shape.
It definitely looks silver but the tow truck driver wrote it up as "light blue" for the car color. Now I'm not sure what color it is. LOL.
I do happen to like light blue cars and in certain light I think this could actually be light blue. This model year had a light blue option but I swear this one is silver. I will have to check the door jamb sticker and see.
AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) said:02Pilot said:When you get tired of the rear end reacting half a second after the front, do yourself a favor and spend $50 on the Whiteline poly rear subframe bushing inserts. The factory bushings were made of pudding. I've done a lot of suspension work on mine, but that was the best bang for the buck.
As for a proper scanner, this is probably the simplest solution. I have an older version, and it covers most everything short of coding.
To OHSCrifle: if they are the same part number as the E92 (2010 328i RWD), i believe i have a set i will send you for free, because someone from this forum sent them to me for free. I never installed them, then sold my E92 a couple weeks ago and these were not included in sale.
They appear to be the same parts. Email sent!
OHSCrifle said:AngryCorvair (Forum Supporter) said:02Pilot said:When you get tired of the rear end reacting half a second after the front, do yourself a favor and spend $50 on the Whiteline poly rear subframe bushing inserts. The factory bushings were made of pudding. I've done a lot of suspension work on mine, but that was the best bang for the buck.
As for a proper scanner, this is probably the simplest solution. I have an older version, and it covers most everything short of coding.
To OHSCrifle: if they are the same part number as the E92 (2010 328i RWD), i believe i have a set i will send you for free, because someone from this forum sent them to me for free. I never installed them, then sold my E92 a couple weeks ago and these were not included in sale.
They appear to be the same parts. Email sent!
The vast majority of the mechanical parts on the E90/E92/E93 and E82 are the same. The rear subframes and their subsequent bushings are identical.
The only rear subframes that different are the M cars (M3 and 1M)- which, the M subframes still bolt in, you just have to use all the M components (control arms, knuckles, etc), IIRC.
All the non-M rear subframes are the same, including the AWD cars. All the non-M cars come with the same "hollow" rear subframe bushings. You can put the solid rubber M3/1M bushings into your non-M rear subframe, but it's a lot of work (subframe removal, push old bushings out, push new bushings in, etc), whereas the inserts are very easy to install, taking very little time. Video on installing inserts:
https://youtu.be/rhXWagJUQO0?si=wpX8qwG1D1R2cjxx
After doing countless hours of research, I've concluded that if I ever remove my rear subframe, I'm not going to bother with M bushings or even poly- I would skip straight to full aluminum "bushings".
In reply to roninsoldier83 :
For a street car?
A bit of a bummer I am sure, but nothing sounds nefarious. Maybe it's just my experience with multiple 100k mile BMW's, but unless the phrase was "not leaking because I just changed it" I would assume that the gaskets will be leaking soon, and there is a difference between a weep and a drip. If I was a mechanic trying to earn my living, I would define a "weep" as "leaking." Sensors and coils and eventually cooling systems are all going to do the same things that happen to all BMW's, but we still love them. What I'm trying to say is don't beat yourself up or be disappointed in the bigger picture. You flew and made it home with no drama. It's a cool car, and one of the last of the serviceable ones. I still think it was a great pickup. I mean, it needed a rollback but it didn't try to kill you.
OHSCrifle said:In reply to roninsoldier83 :
For a street car?
Yes, if I was going through the trouble, I was just go aluminum (likely the 2-piece variety, for ease of install).
A few notes about my rationale:
-The newer F & G series M cars all have solid metal rear subframe mounts.
-I'm 99% sure all of my double wishbone Honda's had/have (including my S2000) direct mounted subframes, with no rubber bushings and they've never bothered me.
-The overwhelming majority of the reviews I've seen on the aluminum bushings for the E90/E82 report little to no change in NVH. I've seen plenty of commenters stating aluminum would be too harsh for a street car, but the folks that actually installed them have claimed the opposite.
In reply to glueguy (Forum Supporter) :
Sometimes I think it's a Stockholm type of deal LOL. But I agree with you. In my experience, things pop up. But once they're good, they're good for a while.
EchoTreeSix said:In reply to glueguy (Forum Supporter) :
Sometimes I think it's a Stockholm type of deal LOL. But I agree with you. In my experience, things pop up. But once they're good, they're good for a while.
Definitely hoping this is the case. Now that it let me down the car will have to earn my trust.🤞🏼
Failed sensors and coils are life with a fifteen year old car. The part that I'm not thrilled with is that since these are known leakers - I asked. I was told "no leaks". I didn't even open the hood and check - I should have but I had already paid a deposit and completed a one way flight.
I was hoping for an epic GRM fly and drive story. It almost was... it just cost 50% more than I expected.
In reply to glueguy (Forum Supporter) :
Agreed. Good comments.
Work completed:
OEM oil filter housing gasket and aluminum (mickey mouse ear) coolant hose flange
OEM valve cover, 6 new NGK spark plugs and OEM coils
OEM crankshaft position sensor
OEM eccentric shaft sensor
Running like a champ again. Paused to come up for air and money.
Needs:
RT engine mount
Refresh suspension
And I'm pretty certain the color is blue not silver but I couldn't find the code on the door jamb. Beautiful color regardless.
In reply to OHSCrifle :
Is the mount broken or are all four of the attaching bolts just broken?
VWAG had no problem with steel bolts for literally decades, from aircooled engine cases to magnesium valve covers on 5v engines, but BMW felt the need to thread everything into a magnesium block with aluminum bolts, so they break. I have used the BMW bolts to replace them. I have seen BMWs come in where someone just replaced them with steel bolts and thus far the world seems to have failed to end.
In reply to Pete. (l33t FS) :
Right side engine mount is described as "totally collapsed" the left side mount looks like it had been replaced.
I feel a lot better with a baseline evaluation by a pro who knows the chassis and engine well. Engine feels much healthier.
Suspension feels tired. I soon may Bring More Wallet and order some new control arms.
I have a set of corteco brand engine mounts I took out of my N54 E90.. If it fits yours can have it for price of shipping if interested. Used for ~40k miles but no tears and looks like new.
OHSCrifle said:And I'm pretty certain the color is blue not silver but I couldn't find the code on the door jamb. Beautiful color regardless.
It's definitely one of the blues. There should be a sticker somewhere under the hood that lists the color. This thread mentions a few places to check:
I know you were asking about how much of a difference the 3-Stage DISA intake manifold makes. I went to the dyno today- I was recently on the dyno last month to do a baseline before installing the 3-Stage DISA intake manifold, the OEM Euro airbox/K&N filter and tuning the car. Nothing else has changed. I have no idea how much this specific tune helped, nor do I have any idea how much of this was from the Euro airbox (I can't imagine it was much- they're both OEM BMW airboxes). Stock exhaust, stock headers, stock everything else (aside from an intake elbow), using OEM BMW parts + a tune.
Today's temps were similar to last month's temps (mid-low 80's, maybe slightly hotter today), both pulls on a Dynojet with the same correction factor/smoothing. Both on 91 octane gas. Same tires. Same oil. Direct apples to apples comparison.
The car picked up an extra 27whp and 32wtq, and it made more power everywhere across the entire rev range! This just verified what I felt almost as soon as I uploaded the new tune.
I used the highest pull from each session to make a direct comparison:
^^^The dips in the torque curve are from the DISA valves opening/closing, really consistent with most of the charts I've seen. Like I said, very worthwhile, noticeable mod. Probably the most noticeable thing I've done to my 128i.
Keep in mind, my 128i is a 6MT (lower drivetrain loss than an auto and a bit lighter). So, my seat of pants feeling might be a bit more pronounced than say, someone in an AWD 328xi wagon with an auto.
What tune did you use? As soon as a car with a 3 stage shows up a the pick & pull I plan on adding it to the e91. I am leaning towards just reflashing the factory 3.0si tune available for free from bimmerlabs. It won't be as good as a tune, but not sure how many of them even make more power than the highest bmw tune
In reply to Caperix :
I ended up going with the Bimmworks tune:
https://shop.bimmworks.com/products/n52b30-remote-tuning
When it was time for me to swap the 3SIM into my E82, the Bimmerlabs website was down... it would appear the site is back up! Oh the irony, it only comes up after I already paid for a tune, lol.
I'm not convinced that the aftermarket tunes make much more power than the OEM Bimmerlabs tune. Bimmworks claims 285bhp, which, that's very optimistic (there are other words I could use) to say the least. I used to ECU tune turbo JDM cars when I was younger and spent quite a bit of time at dynos- you're not getting those types of tuning gains out of a modern NA engine. I could see picking up maybe ~5whp over a good OEM tune- even tougher with an intelligent ECU that has aggressive/dynamic timing control, but much beyond that, I wouldn't believe the hype.
Although I did seem to have much better luck than the guy from Thedrive using an OEM tune:
https://www.thedrive.com/guides-and-gear/project-car-diaries-dyno-testing-my-bmws-junkyard-intake-upgrade
^^^He seemingly believed his low numbers were heat soak related.
For anyone thinking about doing the 3 stage intake, make sure your car (I think they only put these in automatic cars) doesn't actually have an N51 SULEV engine it. If that is the case you already have the 3 stage intake...and a lower compression ratio so there is nothing to gain.
In reply to adam525i :
N51 came in all cars sold in certain states, regardless of transmission; my 6MT M-Sport has one (originally sold in NY).
Drove around ahead of emission test and it passed just fine. Finally a day with no drama. Can finally register on Monday.
Also found a pair of beige sport seats for a good price at a junkyard in Greenville. Gonna ponder that for a bit - they are electric but I'm hoping to find manual sport seats.
I'm on the lookout for a set of beige manual sport seats as well to swap into my e30. The sport seats are nice, the e91 has them, comfortable with adjustable side bolsters.
Any opinions on shock/struts? I'm still undecided if I am going to swap the full m rear with the different rear lower shock mount. The m front is a no brainer to go to. The rear sounds like only better from a bushing vs ball joint change
In reply to Caperix :
I prefer the Koni Sports over the Bilsteins (I've had both).
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