I hope you're not too thirsty....I'm broke
I can't believe he got that much coverage from one quart of paint, regardless of how it was thinned.
4eyes wrote: I can't believe he got that much coverage from one quart of paint, regardless of how it was thinned.
I sprayed two coats on my 720 with less than half a quart. I can believe it.
Grtechguy wrote: I saw that it was a zombie thread, but I want an update of the paint condition
From my Reader's Rides Garage:
Last August
Last November
Paint is still perfect. It sat outside uncovered for about a year, then got a cover on it, it's been in my garage since Christmas getting upgrades and repair work done. Paint is still great, I've scratched it in a few places when I dragged a piece of an engine block across the front bumper, and when I attached some brake lights to the top to drag it on a dolly, but they were quick and easy to touch up...
Looks good! I painted my Jeep with Van Sickle tractor paint last summer. I sprayed mine though. Cost me less than $50.
Yeah I was thinking about this thread the other day when thinking about painting the Olds this summer. I am almost thinking I may just do the roll on method like this car was done to help keep things down in budget range. Heck I already have a bunch of rollers around here.
I am trying to decide though should I go with the regular original method in rustoleum paint, tractor paint (I have a JD supply here so maybe some Blitz Black?) or try and find some marine paint. I know I want to just go ahead and go black for this car. Interior will be black and grey and once the car makes its appearance at the challenge it will be getting reworked a bit.
I don't think rolling a matte finish really works out because you can't sand and polish out imperfections like you can a gloss. Blitz Black is probably not a good idea. Anyone else tried it?
Raze wrote: Yeah, after rolling this paint and how well it turned out it makes me wonder what it would look like sprayed on, I've seen rustoleum and tremclad jobs sprayed and they look sweet, but this stuff is different so it really makes one wonder...
Just remember you'll lose about 30% when you spray.
Anybody know if you use a wagner power sprayer to apply the paint, does it need to be thinned down even more?
If you are willing to spend some more cash ($400ish) and put in more time and effort you can end up with an even nicer paint job. But for a track rat the above method can't be beat.
Nice DIY writeup with pictures. http://www.alfabb.com/bb/forums/spider-1966-up/185546-paint-your-car-yourself-yes-you-can.html
midknight wrote: Anybody know if you use a wagner power sprayer to apply the paint, does it need to be thinned down even more?
Per used a cheap HVLP painter to spray the primer on his 2002.
http://classicmotorsports.net/project-cars/1972-26-2002tii/primer-2002/
I've wondered if that would be good for spraying a track-rat... or my ratty truck that really needs paint.
midknight wrote: Anybody know if you use a wagner power sprayer to apply the paint, does it need to be thinned down even more?
Dr. Hess used a Harbor Freight gun ($16.00 when on sale, IIRC) to spray rustoleum for his locost
He explained his technique here
rebelgtp wrote: Yeah I was thinking about this thread the other day when thinking about painting the Olds this summer. I am almost thinking I may just do the roll on method like this car was done to help keep things down in budget range. Heck I already have a bunch of rollers around here. I am trying to decide though should I go with the regular original method in rustoleum paint, tractor paint (I have a JD supply here so maybe some Blitz Black?) or try and find some marine paint. I know I want to just go ahead and go black for this car. Interior will be black and grey and once the car makes its appearance at the challenge it will be getting reworked a bit.
I've heard the rust-o black is not a great color to work with. From what I've seen and heard it's the one color they have that tends to fade in the sunlight no matter what you do to buff or fix it. I was thinking about going that color on my beater as well but I haven't heard of anyone using a different brand of black so I'm still a bit skeptical it would turn out well.
I always wondered if it would be possible to mix a little flake into that stuff.
The e30 needs some paint, but it has such a beautiful subtle flake that I would miss.
I think this is a fairly well done how-to on roll on paint jobs
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_qPJTTRWttQ
Zomby woof wrote: I think this is a fairly well done how to on roll on paint jobs http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_qPJTTRWttQ
Thanks, that is wonderful
JoeyM wrote:Zomby woof wrote: I think this is a fairly well done how to on roll on paint jobs http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_qPJTTRWttQThanks, that is wonderful
Yea, really good. Nice find, Zomby.
Anyone know if there are any mixing charts so that you can blend colors to come even closer to an original color?
Red + a table spoon of yellow, a little blue, and maybe a shot of silver?
I thought it was well done. Simple and to the point.
This resource might also help
http://rolledon.forummotion.com/
fastEddie wrote: To the OP, what kind of wheel prep was done before spraying them?
If that was at me, then I removed the wheel weights and just cleaned the wheels with dish soap, water, and a bristle brush. Let them dry for about 6 hours in the sun, then I used 180grit sandpaper to scuff up all the clear coat on the aluminum rims. I wiped them down with some paper towels and water, then followed up with some rubbing alcohol. I used some painter's tape and slipped it in under the lip. I didn't use any etching primer, or other prep spray, and just went right at them with Duplicolor wheel paint. 3 coats (2 cans for all 4 wheels) later they were done. It's pretty tough paint but I've found engine block enamel works just as well, is much harder, and is slightly cheaper, that's what I used on my red rims (same ones as the black ones) with my R-comps on them...
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