No it's not just you....they have tanked over the past few years. Really nice ones can be had all day long for under 6k and tastefully modded high hp ones for under 10k. They are a real bargain imo.
No it's not just you....they have tanked over the past few years. Really nice ones can be had all day long for under 6k and tastefully modded high hp ones for under 10k. They are a real bargain imo.
They certainly aren't that cheap here....
Edit: I just realized your in Canada. No idea on the market there.
There is a nice local (Nashville) one for sale. Black on black for 5500 and that's the asking price.
I bought my 87 with less than 100k miles, everything working (including AC), nicely modded, with a lot of recent service records, and koni yellows for $6600. The guy wanted 10k.
I tried to trade an '86 911 for a 944T a couple of years ago. The 944T was in really great shape. The guy was asking $12,500, but had no interest in a trade. I ended up selling the 911 for $12K.
Good thing because here it is, still unsold, down to $8,500 asking.
Like I needed another car to look for on craiglist.... thanks a lot. :)
Yeah, prices are through the floor. I wasn't too happy to see one pop up locally on craigslist black on black '87 Turbo for a $5k asking price. By the time I'm done with my car I'll probably be there.
September 27 Spent a little more time on the car tonight - pulled the stereo and finished doing the wiring properly since I got the correct size butt connectors. There's still something funky and I get some intermittent static/crap in the speakers; I need to check the wiring at the speakers and make sure I have the polarity correct also.
I also installed a good used hatch seal so I can hopefully stop sucking exhaust. I had to cut the wiring to the rear wiper - deleted anyway - and the 3rd brake light, which I still need to reconnect since I couldn't dig far enough down to find any place to disconnect it and I didn't want to cut the hatch seal. I then had to readjust the hatch pins to get a good seal without being too tight.
Next up will be to pull and clean/repair the headlight motor so it stops cycling constantly when the headlights turn off. I also really need to get the front wheels either repaired or replaced to kill the rest of the vibration, and the torque tube needs to be swapped out. I'm not looking forward to pulling the exhaust and rear suspension for that job; I may farm that out to a shop.
(Half an hour of reading later) How in the hell did I miss this thread until now?! Car looks great, looking forward to seeing more!
Nice build thread. Almost motivates me to pull the head on my 944S...
Keep it up
Time for another update. After sitting out in the rain for a week there was 1/4" of standing water in the rear footwell :( The sunroof drains are clear so new sunroof seals were ordered, should be in next week. Until then it will live in the garage.
The headlights wouldn't ever park properly since I got the car - the would just go up and down endlessly until I put the parking lights back on when they got to the bottom. So I pulled the motor and checked and cleaned the disc on the transmission that has contacts and interrupts to stop the motor at the appropriate places. Reinstalled the motor and no change 
So I thought about it for a while and looked at how the circuit works. There's a relay on the motor that runs the flow of current and I figured maybe it's just switching slowly. I had a spare relay in the garage from the aftermarket alarm I had yanked out so I swapped that in. Presto - everything works as intended!
And another update! Cruise control is fixed thanks to some scavenged wiring and a $3 soldering iron from HF. The cruise operation is different than anything I've ever experienced - when I disengage the clutch the cruise cuts out but (and here's the weird part) when the clutch is re-engaged the cruise resumes the same speed. It's getting there - I really need to get the front wheels straightened to take the shake out of the wheel.
pigeon wrote: And another update! Cruise control is fixed thanks to some scavenged wiring and a $3 soldering iron from HF. The cruise operation is different than anything I've ever experienced - when I disengage the clutch the cruise cuts out but (and here's the weird part) when the clutch is re-engaged the cruise resumes the same speed. It's getting there - I really need to get the front wheels straightened to take the shake out of the wheel.
Since by depressing the clutch you are disengaging the motor from the drive line. If it did not do this you would have a motor going to red-line very fast. I have always woried about this as if the sensor that detects the clutch being pressed ever fails it could be a bad thing.
Your continued posting about your car is making me miss my 86 951 so much more. I really like my 924s but the body style of the 951 / S2 is so much better. Not to mention the performance!!
In reply to dean1484:
What surprised me was that the cruise reengages when the clutch is released - that's different than any other manual trans car I've ever driven. Usually the cruise is just cut off and needs to be manually "resumed"; this does it automatically.
this thread is simultaneously making me want to buy and making me want to avoid like the plague a few 914s that are available for cheap in my area.
Keep up the good work!
You know you want to!!! 
Porsches are not cheep. It just comes down to when do you want to spend your money.
October 16, 2010
Received some parts from Pelican today to hopefully stop my 944 from turning into a bathtub Porsche. New sunroof seal installed onto the sunroof panel. The old one was pretty badly compressed especially compared to the new one. At one point some PO had used something to build up around the interior rear corners of the sunroof panel so the fit isn't perfect there but it should be OK. I also replaced the broken wind deflector hinge, on a 944 the front of the sunroof panel mounts to the wind deflector.
With the new seal the sunroof is a very tight fit into the opening, especially at driver's rear. There's still a gap at the passenger rear; I'll have to pull the sunroof back out and reinstall again tomorrow to try to get the fit better. I also bought a new body seal for the sunroof but it's really just a trim piece around the hole, and I'll hold off installing it until I replace the headliner this winter.
I also installed the $2 rubber plug into the front of the cam tower.
Lastly, I decided that after a couple months ownership and having done some basic maintenance I probably should take a look at the air cleaner. I found a K&N along with this:
Looks like a mouse called that area home for quite a while. That might explain why the car was running so rich. The K&N though totally stuffed full of fuzz, hair, etc. still apparently did it's job as the airbox below it was clean as a whistle. We will see after the filter gets oiled and reinstalled tomorrow how it runs. I'll also have to use zip ties to close the airbox up as 3 of the holes for the 4 bolts that keep it closed are stripped and the hole on the cover is broken around the 4th. 
that was just extra filter substrate provided by the local wild life in appreciation of such an outstanding automobile :)
I need to find my spare sunroof hinges as well, those things are always imploding....
looking good !
So the stupid sunroof still leaks at the passenger rear; I adjusted the lift arm down a couple mm and it looks like a much better seal now even though the panel is still not centered in the opening. I'll douse it again with water tomorrow night and see of its sealed.
With a clean and freshly oiled K&N the car idles nicely now; it used to hunt up and down. Part throttle response and off boost behavior is much better too.
Next project is to get the distributor off and make sure the front cam gear isn't loose. It makes a hell of a racket there on startup and at idle, and I've read of the bolt holding that gear backing off causing damage to the snout and keyway at the front of the cam. That must be where Mazda got the design for the Miata short nose crank 
Of course to check it I need to pull the distributor cap and then the rotor; the securing bolt lives inside the shaft behind there. Nothing is easy.
October 19
New to me parts showed up today and promptly got installed. New unbroken passenger side dash trim with working clock, and new trim around the HVAC controls that's not cracked. Little things make a big difference in how things look. Makes me want to yank the dash out to fill the cracks and either paint and flock it or wrap it in alcantara right now instead of over the winter.
I also finally received my M8x1.5 tap so I can fix the boogered hub thread and screw in the last CV retaining bolt along with the moon plate that finally showed up last week. I'll save that job for the weekend - I can tell I lack the patience right now and would probably irretrievably screw it all up and have to redo that entire wheel bearing.
Great thread, keep it up until your trough.
In reply to pigeon:
how about a dash cap? Those things look decent for not much money.
The only bad thing about this thread is that it makes want to prowl craigslist for a 944. 
I'm really glad to have a blow-by-blow account of the problems encountered. That may help temper my enthusiasm. Thank you again!
Otto_Maddox wrote: In reply to pigeon: how about a dash cap? Those things look decent for not much money.
I thought about that but I haven't seen a decent one for <$100. I'd really like the experience of pulling the dash and doing it myself and I think it'll look better too. I've had just about everything out of the dash a couple times now so pulling the dash itself shouldn't be that big a deal. It will be another project that my son and maybe even my daughter can help with, which is another reason I bought this project.
October 23
Today I successfully tapped the boogered up hole in the passenger rear hub to accept the 6th and final CV/axle bolt. My first time tapping anything - I'm happiest that I didn't completely screw it up. I had to completely pull the axle but 5 of the 6 CV bolts on the trans side had loosened a bit also so (a) no biggie and (2) probably a good thing anyway. I'll have to retighten the driver's side ones at some point, and I may get into one of ideola's Stage8 locking bolt group buys eventually.
I scored a pair of (hopefully unbent) front wheels off craigslist out of Houston on the last day craigslook was operating to replace the 2 bent wheels currently on the car. The 2 replacements shipped to my door are about what having one straightened would have cost, so I'm happy. They will arrive on Monday, and I will get the tires swapped over this week. Then I can figure out if some of the looseness I feel in the steering was due to the constant shaking or if the inner or outer tie rods are shot.
Of course the new used clock I received has the light bulb burned out. Stupid me didn't check it before I installed that passenger dash trim. I think I'll just live with that as there's a clock on the stereo and the wiring connector on the hazard switch is messed up - with my luck it would break the new trim panel if I tried to pull it out.
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