My turn- recommend me a truck

My daily driver F250 bit the dust today.  A guy cut in front of me to make a left into an Asian Massage parlor, and I T-boned him at 40 mph. 

Yep, you read that right. Totaled my truck.

Help me find another....

I don’t need diesel, but I do need towing capacity. Let’s say 10,000 lbs. 

I also care A LOT about dependability. I will give up lots of performance and creature comforts for a truck that is never in the shop. 

Having said that, I am beginning to care more about the interior and creature comforts than I ever did before. I drive a lot- my truck is to me like your office is to you. Part of me wants a newer truck- leather, nav, quiet interior. But I HATE the electronic nannies and complexity. 

Don’t need 4x4 (but everyone likes it, right?)

I need a back seat, but I don’t want to drive a freight train. A crew cab long bed is too long. I’ll take an extended cab long bed, or a crew cab short bed. 

Ive been driving a 3/4 ton truck forever, but might consider a 1/2 ton. 

Im not a Dodge guy, but I am working for a Dodge dealer. He would cut me a good deal. 

Part of me wants to go back to my old GMT800- that was a good balance of reliability, decent interior, towing capacity, and comfort. I loved the full rubber floor in the base model (carpet isn’t great)  But they are getting old.

Still love my 7.3, but it’s a noisy interior.

I need a lesson in some of the newer engines- when do I cross the line to too many electronic doodads to meet my reliability issues?

Price?  I will max out at about $25K, but I’d feel better about $15 or less.  I may live in this thing, but it’s still a work truck.

Edumacate me please!

...and by all means, post links!

I'm no expert, but I think 10k towing capability dictates 3/4 ton or better?

I find some humor along with sadness knowing that your truck had nearly 500k miles but the thing that took it off the road was a collision, not mechanical failure. 

I would not be worried about most modern electronics within the engine itself.  Trucks are huge money makers, so they generally get well tested to make sure that nothing electronic breaks.  And, IMHO, that does cover any OEM.  (that does not count for the AFM system on GM vehicles, that sucks, and is under a class action lawsuit)

As for the interior tech, my personal experience would suggest that you at least get something with good bluetooth- so that you can use your phone for nav and streaming music.  That will cover most of what the expensive things offer, and you already own it.

For the truck, I would suggest trying them.  Don't just get it based on what people say- this is your work truck, and your butt is sitting in the seat, so it should be comfortable; your arms and fingers, so everything should be easy to reach to YOU; your eyes- so the view must be good to you (both out and back to the truck).  

I'm thankful that many here love the turbo DI truck we make, but get what you want.

I have nothing to add regarding a recommendation on a  truck. Sorry to hear about the accident.  Please ensure that you get checked out!

In reply to RealMiniNoMore :

I think newer 1/2 tons can get close. 

(Plus, I’m probably exaggerating. I’d probably do OK with 8K)

6.0 liter diesel bulletproofed by Bill.

https://youtu.be/gwzJzxuksHM

Strike_Zero said:

I have nothing to add regarding a recommendation on a  truck. Sorry to hear about the accident.  Please ensure that you get checked out!

Thank you. 

I’m battered and bruised. I did get checked out, and the Doc says I’ll be OK, but it will hurt worse tomorrow. 

I didn’t like it when the EMT told me my blood pressure was 220/ 190. 

Tundra 

mine is rated to tow 10,100 lb. I have towed 8600 lb for almost 30k miles 

you can get 8 feet bed with double cab or 5.5feet bed with crew cab.

interior quality and reliability is excellent

A 401 CJ said:

6.0 liter diesel bulletproofed by Bill.

 

https://youtu.be/gwzJzxuksHM

That’s nice, but I gotta rule out duallies. 

Lots of GMT800s around here that are still in great shape, although the later diesel ones (LLY and LBZ) are commanding a premium over the early GMT900s because of the relative lack of emissions equipment.

In reply to mr2s2000elise :

How old is your Tundra?

In reply to SVreX :

I suspect approach this different than you.  I look down the road as far as I can predict.  So I will ask you, how long do you expect  do you expect you will have the need for such a truck?  

If it’s much over a decade you might do the math involved new versus used.  

New depreciates more but might cost you less over a longer period.  Interest tends to be less or nothing.  Insurance can be lower especially with the newer safety systems such as active cruise control ( automatic braking) blind spot detectors. Back up camera’s. 

Profit for the dealer on new is around 20% and most dealers will often sell for that discount and sometimes actually below costs. 

Used on the other hand is the profit maker for dealers. Profits can  exceed 30%   Because dealers set the market private parties price theirs accordingly.  

If we assume  a life of 250,000 miles, buying at 100,000 miles or there abouts means half of its life is over, the lowest maintenance half.   Does it make sense then to pay more than half price for one?  Shouldn’t the used price be less than 1/2? Significantly less? 

 Please excuse my rough numbers. Let us say a new one lists for $50,000  minus 20% means the selling price will be $40,000. With 10% down  zero interest that’s $500 a month. 

A used one likely with 100,000 miles might sell in the $25,000   Neighborhood.  Assume 8%  interest plus higher insurance and delayed maintenance  Isn’t that nearly $500 a month?   

A decade or so from now aren’t you likely to be back on the market with a used one? And only half way to replacement with a new one.  

I guess that means no new leather seats...

pimpm3 said:

I guess that means no new leather seats...

Probably. Don’t jump ahead yet. Insurance had not yet totaled it (but I’m pretty sure they will). 

Ill let you know in a couple days. 

In reply to frenchyd :

Point taken. I am not ruling out new. I am ruling out a truck that costs over $50K and is loaded with so many electronic nannies that I can’t do basic maintenance. 

The average repair on a newer truck is over $1000. Don’t forget to include that in your math. 

If I go new, it won’t be a 3/4 ton truck. 

In reply to SVreX :

Both of my new trucks  have to this point been absolutely trouble free.  My old truck  ran 20 years  371,000 virtually trouble free miles until the rust worm  made it time to be replaced.  

The new truck has only 28,000 miles and again zero troubles.   The new one gets better fuel mileage by at least 30%  unless I use E85 which is about 60 cents a gallon less but gets about 10% worse fuel mileage. 

Regarding future troubles I discussed the potential for that last month with my service manager while I was waiting for a free oil change. 

According to him reliability on this model promises to exceed  anything previous. But then it’s a traditional V8 (with overhead cams.). 

Regarding electronic systems. They are far more reliable than they once were. 

In General GM and Ford seem to both be very reliable. My daughters own new ones and they and their husbands own new with so far total reliability. 

I would see what kind of deal the dealer you are working with can get you on a Tradesman package with a hemi.  Its a lot of bang for the buck.  In the 90s it would have been a fully loaded truck since they have AC/Power windows/Power Locks/Cruise.  Since they are still making the previous generation as the "Classic" I have seen some pretty good deals.  Current work truck packages are pretty nice compared to even 10 years ago. Ours has worked well for us.

 A new crew cab for under 27k .  Regular cab under 22k.  I bet your guy could do you even better.  

SVreX said:

 I may live in this thing, but it’s still a work truck.

 

I was going to buy a Chevrolet WT but instead ended up with the LS version and carpets.  I do a lot of traveling including some down time - I have easily taken a 15 minute nap to take the edge off.

Somedays I think about getting one of those Beauville vans to lay out and sleep or camp.

In reply to logdog :

Both Ford and GM sell “work Trucks” in primarily white. With rubber floor matts but still decently equipped. 

I love my 2013 k3500 with the duramax/Allison combo.  It’s a beast towing and the integrated exhaust brake has been awesone down steep grades.  I know you don’t want I dually,  but I have driven the 2500 version and it’s a great truck too.  I came close to buying one over my dually,  but prefer the extra little bit of stability.  I paid 34k and it had 33k miles on it.  This truck replaced my 2002 k3500,  which I also loved,  but had an appetite for injectors.  I did replace my black cloth seats with leather because my little white dog loves to ride and had fur all over the black cloth pretty much immediately.

Mine is the LS trim and has the rubber floor,  but still has power windows, locks,  Cruise,  and keyless entry.  Basically in between the WT and LT.

Here it is pulling Ferguson home from Houston:

2011+ F150 3.5 Ecoboost would seem to fit your needs. We'll within your price range and rated to tow 10K lbs.

Mileage drops significantly when towing but they're solid trucks in the experience of my roommate who drove the piss out of his for 147k miles till he hit a camry and dropped it on the frame and totalled it 6.5 years into ownership... 

Why not just look for the same truck you used to own, but maybe some old man special creampuff with 100k miles on it?  

Autotempest nationwide search FTW.  We just found a GMT400 Suburban for our family hauler down in Arkansas, had it shipped to Maryland.  Shipping was $750 door to door.  Truck is rust free and you could eat off the undercarriage.  

Here:

https://www.cars.com/vehicledetail/detail/766712930/overview/?aff=stemp2&CMP=stemp2