I am looking to buy a dd under 7k that will meet the following
Stick shift, fun to drive, rwd, easy and cheap to work on, will stand up to occasional autox/tracking
Was thinking of Miata, 240sx s13/14, e30, e36(seemed harder to work on), possibly rx7, any others you can think of
The car must pass CA smog, so the 240sx has to have a stock KA
What do you guys think would make the best dd/occasional track car under 7k?
You could have a darn nice NA Miata for $7k, and still have money leftover for mods and a second set of wheels/tires.
In reply to petegossett:
Thats what I was thinking, I can find decent 94's for around 3500
Since you don't have to worry about road salt, the options are many.
Drive several of each car to get a better idea of what you like. Miata's are the easiest to get parts for and the newer end of the group. Emissions may be easier to pass vs an 80's car with lots of miles.
If you don't need luggage capacity or a back seat, Miata is the answer.
How tall are you? Which of these do you fit in with a helmet?
You mention tracking. Will your local track rules allow for a convertible?
In reply to JohnRW1621:
Im 5'8" so Ill be fine in a miata, my local track only requres a 5 point harness for a vert so ill be ok
what about a e36 328i or m3? Ill be spending more upfront but Ill get a much better car, however, Im just worried about maintenance and ease of working on it
halokilller wrote: In reply to JohnRW1621: Im 5'8" so Ill be fine in a miata, my local track only requres a 5 point harness for a vert so ill be ok
You now know the answer. Everything else will be chatter.
I cannot tell you about the newest BMWs.. but the E36 is a fairly easy car to work on. Most everything is logically laid out and easy to get at.
Keeping in mind that this will be my daily driver, how does the miata compare to the e36?
Miata
BMW of some sort might not be bad but many are beat in that price range and will need updates.
halokilller wrote: In reply to JohnRW1621: Im 5'8" so Ill be fine in a miata, my local track only requres a 5 point harness for a vert so ill be ok
I presume you need a rollbar first. Requiring a 5-point harness seems a bit odd. A 3-point belt won't stick your head up any higher than a 5-point. The real danger is to your hands/arms unless you get arm restraints or a hard top.
halokilller wrote: Keeping in mind that this will be my daily driver, how does the miata compare to the e36?
Cons: Less space. Overall lower performance in raw times. It will require a few simple upgrades/modifications to get it on track (rollbar, shocks/springs, hardtop or 5-point harness and arm restraints if the running body requires them) where the M3 is ready out of the box with just a tune up and fluid change.
Pros: You will find a nicer example for lower price. It will be more reliable. Lower operating costs. Modifications, upgrades, and spare parts will be more readily available and less expensive. It will have a certain gleeful fun factor that few other cars manage.
$7k will get you a fairly high mileage E36 M3 and you will need to be careful in hunting to find one that has been properly cared for. You probably won't have money left over for modifications. You can find a fairly good 1.8L Miata with a LSD and maybe even a rollbar and suspension already done for you for $3k-$5k. It will take less hunting and have a less questionable history. The remaining $2k-$3k can be spent on solid upgrades and a spare set of wheels for your track rubber. I would hunt for a '94-'97 car with LSD and either a rollbar or a hard top for about $4k.
If you get an E36 M3, you need to know that the cooling system has been taken care of already, or plan to do that first thing. If I was looking for a decently cared for but not cream puff E36 M3, I'd expect to pay $8k-$10k.
I would say my e36 M3 is easier to work on than my e30. You can undo the whole front clip quite easily and most of the engine is exposed. I would not rule them out.
I would look at all the cars you mentioned and see which is the best you can find for $5k, then have $2k for upgrades.
J
For something with good fuel economy and handling, don't forget the 7th Gen Celica. Add a moroso oil pan to be safe and you get a much more fuel economic choice that is pretty fun to drive and still competitive to autocross.
In reply to bmw88rider:
Thanks for the suggestion, but rwd only
Beer Baron wrote: If you don't need luggage capacity or a back seat, Miata is the answer.
And if you do have a need for luggage capacity, a Miata with a hitch-mounted cargo box is the awnser.
halokilller wrote: Keeping in mind that this will be my daily driver, how does the miata compare to the e36?
As a DD, the Miata should be more reliable. Not only are they (generally) more robust, but if you do need a part, odds are you can find it very easily (and close to your location) and at a very reasonable price. Also, you have to remember that the US E36 M3 "only" had 240hp. If you don't think a Miata has enough oomph, you could always go for a turbocharged miata or for $7,000, you could get an S2000. In terms of comfort, I think that is mostly dependent on what suspension and seats are in/on the car.
Mmadness wrote: ...or for $7,000, you could get an S2000.
Not without major issues, you cant.
Any reason Mustangs aren't on the list?
Although as an E36 328i owner myself, they're a pretty reasonable choice. Not particularly tough to work on other than the starter, which Alldata lists as a 1.6 hour job, but I have no idea how you're supposed to change it that fast.
You should be able to get into an E46 for that kind of money.
As long as you never, ever need to take more than one other person or something bigger than the size of a decent sized duffle bag with you, Miata is clearly your answer. Lack of room in the trunk and, to a certain extent, the passenger compartment, are the only real drawbacks. Parts a cheap and plentiful. Get one with at least a 15 inch wheel and there are tons of cheap and effective tire options. Huge aftermarket for a car that, perhaps ironically, needs little.
Here's the cliff notes from my own experience: Find a rust free example, totally rust free. Anything that's starting to rust is going to be more trouble than its worth. Get one that already has a rollbar (a real rollbar, not a "style bar"). It only seems to add a couple hundred to the used car price and will cost you about $600 and a day or two of tough work if you have to add it later. It might be worth the slight price premium to buy a well documented example from an enthusiast. You'll probably pay more than the price premium in differed maintenance if you buy an example with an unknown history. Oh, and $7k or less will buy you a really nice example.
Beer Baron wrote:Mmadness wrote: ...or for $7,000, you could get an S2000.Not without major issues, you cant.
After looking around, you're right, I need to recalibrate my used car (price radar). I know you could get a nice AP1 S2000 for $6,500 over the winter. This would normally call for a "to damn high" (party) meme, but I'm on my iPad so I can't.
Buy my E36 328i? Seriously though, that sounds like the best option for your specific parameters.
You'll need to log in to post.
