Ok ive got my eyes set on Dunlop Star Specs....alot of people in STX class are running them as well as on the RSX forums...man i wish the suspension wasnt so E36 M3ty. I believe the Type R DC5 suspension is almost the same. This sucks..but ive seen RSXs shine as track cars...could autocross be a weakness but track driving be a strength for this platform?
I'm not the Type R expert … but I'm thinking you might be wrong in this case … if I'm not mistaken the Type R is a double wishbone set up similar to my DC4 Integra LS (5 lug v. 4 lug)
the RSX was the successor to the Integra and that was when they berkeleyed up the suspension on all Honda's … 
Bobzilla wrote: I remember how Realtime got their RSX's to turn. Their "secret" to making the rear suspension work was to not let it work. IIRC, they were running 1500lb rear springs at one point. It's a terrible design and about 3 steps backward from the fantastic Integra chassis. With that said..... stop wasting money on parts. Buy a single, decent set of tires and wear them out. Most local regions offer some form of novice schools, novice programs to help guide people etc. What you need is seat time and instruction, then you can decide if the car is right or wrong for what you want.
not often I agree with Bob 
…
but what he said … and as you get better with what the car can give you, THEN you should start with the mods … doing one at a time and learning how it works, before adding the next mod …
good luck … have fun … listen to the hot shoes at your local a-x club, ride with them, get them to ride with you, go to every school (novice or otherwise) you can, go to every a-x you can …
and the Star Specs would be all you need for all your learning
Go back to my post. Realtime actually switched BACK to the Integra because the RSX was so bad. Then they jumped to the TSX because hte platform was so much better even thoughit was a heavier, 4dr car. Realtime is the factory backed road racing team.
wbjones wrote: I'm not the Type R expert … but I'm thinking you might be wrong in this case … if I'm not mistaken the Type R is a double wishbone set up similar to my DC4 Integra LS (5 lug v. 4 lug) the RSX was the successor to the Integra and that was when they berkeleyed up the suspension on all Honda's …
Integra type-R was awesome. That was the last(and only) pirate car brought to the US. All DC5 (ricer speak for RSX) were the super E36 M3ty macstrut-ish front and crap-tastic multilink rear. I will never understand how Honda could go from the fantastic chassis of the Integra to the RSX.
Now, if I remember this correctly, lowering hte RSX is what leads to serious rear geometry issues. Anything more than an inch or so really puts the rear into some weird angles. So keeping it close to stock ride height will help. Stuff rear springs will help as well. It will ride like crap on the street, but it should help turn.
But again.... buy some RS-3/Rival/Star Spec/R1R's and wear them out. THEN worry about the car.
INITIALDC5 wrote: And everyone always recommends the 24mm swaybar with this car as almost a prerequisite.
Since you've already made significant suspension changes...If you feel it's going to be important based on the recommendations of people more intimately familiar with the chassis, which bringing it up again seems to imply, don't let us stop you. Yes the idea is to learn how to control the car first, then learn how changes affect the car. But the reality is that nobody ever recommends buying the more understeery base suspension version of a car to learn to autox with it first, then upgrading it with all of the factory less understeery (sport package) components only after you've got 'enough' experience. So based on the comments I'm seeing about the rear suspension design it may likely be beneficial, or at least shouldn't be detrimental, to your long term setup goals. But don't be surprised if you aren't able to capitalize on much of any improvement that it does provide yet either.
A couple of other things to consider for after you wear out your first set of performance rubber, is that I know my friends who ran an RSX-S for a few years were adamant about running an LSD and reverse staggered (wider front than rear) tires.
Yeah doing the swaybar isn't going to throw you off the path of success but the emphasis should be on seat time.
Driven5 wrote:INITIALDC5 wrote: And everyone always recommends the 24mm swaybar with this car as almost a prerequisite.Since you've already made significant suspension changes...If you feel it's going to be important based on the recommendations of people more intimately familiar with the chassis, which bringing it up again seems to imply, don't let us stop you. Yes the idea is to learn how to control the car first, then learn how changes affect the car. But the reality is that nobody ever recommends buying the more understeery base suspension version of a car to learn to autox with it first, then upgrading it with all of the factory less understeery (sport package) components only after you've got 'enough' experience. So based on the comments I'm seeing about the rear suspension design it may likely be beneficial, or at least shouldn't be detrimental, to your long term setup goals. But don't be surprised if you aren't able to capitalize on much of any improvement that it does provide yet either. A couple of other things to consider for after you wear out your first set of performance rubber, is that I know my friends who ran an RSX-S for a few years were adamant about running an LSD and reverse staggered (wider front than rear) tires.
biggest problem (and I'm not saying don't do the mods… I started a-x with the mods already done to the Integra … coil overs, CAI, header, and rear bar) is you won't know which if any are helping … that's the advantage of doing one mod at a time
at one time adding a LSD was legal in STX is it still ?
ok cool sounds good. get some nice rubber and hit the track. Then mod one at a time as I learn the vehicle and what I do/don't like or do/don't need.....the bushings and sway bar were already in the plans and in theory should only help the RSX become a better autox car so im not too worried about adding those things. as far as lowering goes I wont be lowering the car very much at all if any. im literally gonna have the BC coils installed and take it to a race prep facility when I get back and have them set up my suspension. leave it to the experts
Responses to above;
InitialDC5, I forgot that the oem lcas can take the em2 (7th gen Civics besides EP3s) front bar, which is 15.9mm and I highly recommend it. Sorry that I missed that. It does not fit the R bar.
You should lower 3/4" to get to the best stock height, same as the R.
I don't know about DC5 being a ricer term but in reality it is the chassis code for the Acura RSX base, Type S, 4th gen Euro and JDM Honda Integra Type Rs, and some others around the world. Just as the the EK is the 6th gen civic chassis, SW20 the 2nd gen MR2, etc..
I believe RealTime ran 3,000 rears at one point and other teams played with up to 4,000lbs.
Full track cars generally run 1,600 lb. fronts and up. The less it moves, the better. So, big rear springs, big bar, and solid sphericals for the bottom of the coilovers to help with a binding issue are pretty key for a serious track car. Oh, RealTime actually won three races and took 2nd overall in Touring Car but 2nd doesn't cut it with those boys. The EPs did ok in BTCC so it depends on the level of racing. A well dialed in DC5 is a lot of fun on track. And there are several guys that win their class championships against decent competition.
The DC5 Type R is not a double wishbone set up. If it was I would have it on mine for sure!
The DC5 has basically the same chassis and suspension as the EP;
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rRq_F1e4Dgc&list=PLAd_vkm8EULxNk1At6t51vMBlf7sOSGRN&index=8
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2D-D4zskY9I&list=PLAd_vkm8EULxNk1At6t51vMBlf7sOSGRN
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KoxSkSqAVrQ
my bad … even though I've driven Honda's since 1976, I never really learned the DC(x) names or the EX/EF/etc … names for the cars
I did learn that my Integra was a DC4 as opposed to most of them on the road … LOL
the term DC5 type R had me thinking of "THE TYPE R" … i.e. the Integra Type R …not remembering that it was a DC2
neither did I remember the DC5 type R being available in this country … if it was, I wasn't paying attention 
In reply to wbjones:
No, it wasn't available in this country. We got stuck with the RSX S and Civic Si. And the DC5 R is called a Honda Integra Type R over there and they also have the CTR/Civic Type R.
yeah … I knew the RSX S and the Civic Si
I do remember reading … Honda Tuning maybe.. about the Civic Type R's
and to the OP … if you're going ahead with the rear sway bar, I'd check with RSX folk to see if the larger bar (it's not that much larger than OEM) needs the rear cross member bracing …
and you've mentioned both track and a-x .. which will it be mostly ? and will it still be a streetable vehicle ?
Yes this will be my daily driver. - so all the rsx guys recommend the 24mm progress bar that comes with the brace..ill just get that one - the spherical bushings also look like the way to go. If im gonna pay to put them in then i dont want to have to visit that area twice bur ive already bought the Energy Suspension Polyurethane ones -this car will be my daily and will mostly see autocross for practice but whenever i have time i want to do as many track days as possible. Thats really where i want to head with this car =the track
Hasbro wrote: Responses to above; - InitialDC5, I forgot that the oem lcas can take the em2 (7th gen Civics besides EP3s) front bar, which is 15.9mm and I highly recommend it. Sorry that I missed that. It does not fit the R bar. - You should lower 3/4" to get to the best stock height, same as the R. - I don't know about DC5 being a ricer term but in reality it is the chassis code for the Acura RSX base, Type S, 4th gen Euro and JDM Honda Integra Type Rs, and some others around the world. Just as the the EK is the 6th gen civic chassis, SW20 the 2nd gen MR2, etc.. - I believe RealTime ran 3,000 rears at one point and other teams played with up to 4,000lbs.
I looked up the EM2 front sway bar and its actually BIGGER than the stock RSX front sway bar so that would only do me a disservice in being that it would only add MORE understeer...maybe you were referring to a different make swaybar?
That's right, it was over 2500lb springs. Been a while since I talked about these.
Setting up a car to be a good track car and a good autocross car require a bit of different setups. To make an autocross car turn, it needs to be pretty loose. That helps it quickly change directions for hte 20-30 hard transitions you'll encounter in that 50-60second run. A car that loose, on a track becomes a bit of a liability. You're only making 10-12 turns in a 90 second to 2 minute lap. Stable at high speeds becomes more important than fast transitions.
Again..... leave the car be. Spend the money on entry fees and tires and find out what it is you want to do and how the car acts. THEN worry about spending bucks on "setup".
I really feel like 90% of what is being said is flying over your head at about 35k feet.
The next event you go to get someone else with experience to drive your car and ride along. Go for ride alongs in other cars if possible and watch the driver. Take any driving classes that are offered. Talk to the other RSX owners and see what they did when the car was stock. Above all fix the loose nut behind the wheel. It's not your car. It's you. And how do I know this? Because I know it's not my car. It's ME...
INITIALDC5 wrote: Yes this will be my daily driver. - so all the rsx guys recommend the 24mm progress bar that comes with the brace..ill just get that one - the spherical bushings also look like the way to go. If im gonna pay to put them in then i dont want to have to visit that area twice bur ive already bought the Energy Suspension Polyurethane ones -this car will be my daily and will mostly see autocross for practice but whenever i have time i want to do as many track days as possible. Thats really where i want to head with this car =the track
cool about the track stuff … as much as I enjoy autocross, PDX/HPDE/TT is even more fun
things to keep in mind … you probably don't want to track the car on the tires you'll drive on the street (at least eventually) that'll mean you'll need some way to transport your track tires, jack, tools … etc
and a really good rule of thumb is that you shouldn't go on track with something you can't afford to leave there … if you have to have this for you DD then taking it on track can have huge consequences
noddaz wrote: The next event you go to get someone else with experience to drive your car and ride along. Go for ride alongs in other cars if possible and watch the driver. Take any driving classes that are offered. Talk to the other RSX owners and see what they did when the car was stock. Above all fix the loose nut behind the wheel. It's not your car. It's you. And how do I know this? Because I know it's not my car. It's ME...
Amen! I'm starting my 9th year auto-x'ing now. Been to 3 Solo Nationals. Done a dozen national tours. hundreds of local events. I got a full time co-driver with experience to help me go faster this year because I'm not getting all I can out of the car.
Last fall we have out annual "swap and drive" event where everyone swaps cars on the same course and has a great time. I made 4 runs in the Forte to get my best time, and then posted it on the dash. I was beat b 2.7 seconds by one of our hot shoes, by 2.1 seconds by a couple people that put a few runs on it to get the time down.
Doing the math.... that 2.1 seconds per day would have put me in the trophies at last Years Nationals in STF (technical, one out of the podium at 4th).... WITH A BROKEN STRUT.
wbjones wrote: at one time adding a LSD was legal in STX is it still ?
Yes it is, for 2wd cars. However, STX rules changed to a specific list of cars a couple of years ago. That bumped the FX16 to FSP. But an LSD is really awesome! 
INITIALDC5 wrote: so Ive run a total of 2 autocross events and each time I had MASSIVE MASSIVE understeer...but I was also on mismatched tires no where near performance compounds and I was on terrible Raceland suspension (a decision I will forever regret) as well as my lower control arm bushing on the driver side was worn and torn. Did I mention my tires were awful? lol so I was extremely unprepared but I vowed that the next time I came out id be ready....so 7 months later here I am halfway through a tour overseas with the Army and I've ordered quite a bit of parts. Ill also be raising my hp from a solid 205ish whp to around 230whp with some bolt-ons and dyno tuning.
Replace the tires with a matched set. Performance tires are nice but I've had a wicked good time on all seasons - 2 seasons ago I placed 2nd in class behind a car on r comps. Fix the bushings, attend events. Racelands are "Ok" if you raise it up a bit, get it off the bumpstops, certainly better than a blown suspension. I wouldn't spend another nickle on car modifications solely for autocross, especially since it's really easy to go from "ST" to "SM".
INITIALDC5 wrote: I looked up the EM2 front sway bar and its actually BIGGER than the stock RSX front sway bar so that would only do me a disservice in being that it would only add MORE understeer...maybe you were referring to a different make swaybar?
I should have been more specific; 03-05 15.9mm EM2 front sway bar, part # 51300-S5D-A02.
The main problem with Racelands is the spring rates of 310/420, which exacerbate the rear end problems. Stock DC5 is 278/458 progressive.
While I've mentioned lots of modifications to get the facts straight, I do concur with everyone else re. getting out there and driving first. But you should at least consider getting back to stock, which isn't horrible. Do you still have the stock dampers?
Besides getting some cheap used oem stuff, the cheapest and best balanced system would be A-Spec dampers and springs which are available from Curry Acura for $650 shipped. That's cheaper than the stock system and are the same parts as the HFP and Type R, are 3/4" lower than the S, a little firmer and a nice ride. Decent tires, 15.9mm/24 bars, camber parts, alignment, and Bob's your uncle.
trucke wrote:wbjones wrote: at one time adding a LSD was legal in STX is it still ?Yes it is, for 2wd cars. However, STX rules changed to a specific list of cars a couple of years ago. That bumped the FX16 to FSP. But an LSD is really awesome!
only if you have enough HP to be able to use it … in my case, other than the start I've never had wheel spin at an a-x … and for sure never on the track
wbjones wrote:trucke wrote:only if you have enough HP to be able to use itwbjones wrote: at one time adding a LSD was legal in STX is it still ?Yes it is, for 2wd cars. However, STX rules changed to a specific list of cars a couple of years ago. That bumped the FX16 to FSP. But an LSD is really awesome!
Amen, wbj, I have 9 1/2" tread RA1s, 17lbs/whp, and it's pretty hairy by the time the front starts to slip. I figure 100 more lbs. off the front and 10 or 15 more hp (14.4lbs/whp) and it'll be time for an lsd. The nice thing about finally being in a rainy location is that I can take it beyond the limit at safer speeds.
To really get where you want to be, have a hot shoe drive it and show you, and do the auto-x schools. My boy did it and dropped at least a couple seconds a lap. And then he beat my by over 2 sec in my own car. Dang kids.
Somebody mentioned massive, massive understeer, in a fwd car, and I know my car ('12 Focus) had it really, really bad. I mean, really bad. Except it was me, not the car.
For fun, I added a rear bar to help reduce said massive understeer. It didn't. Same as before. .
The loose nut behind the wheel needs a lot of work.
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