Need Porsche 944 education.

I'm thinking about 944's. I'm a little leary because although the cars are cheap enough its the cost of Porsche parts that worries me. Do you have to still purchase parts from a Porsche dealer or are there other alternatives?

I need to educate myself about 944's as to the best/worst versions, etc and to resources, parts repros, etc, etc. I'm not in any great rush so I really want to educated about 944's before pulling the trigger.

Any links or suggestions would be most appreciated.

Pelicanparts has a lot of the consumables and I'm sure there are other sources, too.

IMHO the "best" version if you want to go NA is the S2 (or a 968) - displacement bumped up to 3L with a 16V head, with the second best version being the rare-ish 2.7L 8V. The 2.5L ones aren't what you'd call torquey (in both 8V and 16V guises) and make the car feel a little gutless unless you rev it.

The 16V system is a bit weird with the timing belt driving one cam and a short chain driving the other one - IIRC there can be issues with the chain tensioners that can lead to broken chains or chains that skip a tooth, both resulting in expensive valve salad.

The other expensive job is a clutch replacement due to the mountain of work involved so unless you don't mind spending a weekend under the car to replace a clutch, I would try to buy one that already has had the clutch replaced.

Parts prices in general aren't GM-cheap but they're noticeably cheaper than parts for a 911.

Not too long ago I picked up a cheap 944 so I've been where you are. When I needed a couple o-rings I picked them up from a dealer. They were expensive but for something little like an o-ring I'd rather have an oem part.

I know of two online sites for buying new/used/aftermarket 944 parts with decent prices:

944 online http://www.944online.com/cgi-bin/ASI_Store.cgi?Entrance

and Pelican parts http://www.pelicanparts.com/index.htm

I was lucky enough to get a parts car from the same owner so I've been cannibalizing it for a lot of parts I need.

I called local junkyards and none of them claimed to have porsches lying around. For perspective, I live in the Midwest. Other areas may have loads of junked porsches for all I know.

I'm thinking you can also find some parts on craigslist from guys parting out 944s.

The actual parts replacement cost of my N/A 86 944 8V have been less than my 91 Miata was. There are multiple places to buy parts from, and most are available at NAPA, etc. The 8V cars are likely what's in your price range. I recommend the 85.5-89 versions as they have the nicer interior, power steering, and the aluminum suspension. It was less than $200 for metal racing balljoints and another $200 to have a shop install both sides, so don't let the "OMG non-replaceable!!!!" stories scare you off. My car has 227K miles on it and runs great. I have full service records from 91-today at Porsche shops, try and find the same.

Also, the option codes (located on a sticker under the hatch carpet) are important. M030 is the adjustable Sport Suspension. Mine has the M220 Limited Slip (which makes a huge difference in grip), M383/387 Sport Seats (worth about $1000 on their own), and the M451 non-adjustable Sport Suspension. The options can really change the whole character of the car. We looked at 85.5-88 2.5L 944's for months and test drove a few. The luxuried-up one feel like pigs compared to one with all the Sports stuff.

Don't forget the sister car to the 944, the 924S.

Essentially a 944 narrow body.

Lots of parts available, many are available in the aftermarket. Lots of them racing in ITS (SCCA) or Spec944 (NASA) so many of the common issues have been well documented by now.

There are several 944 specific forums around and of course the local PCA chapter is likely to have some current or former 944 owners in it.

GRM even did a comparison article on the 924/944 series a while back. Some good basic buyer's guide information there.

Btw, the aluminum control arms are probe to cracking if the car has been lowered excessively. Some of the racer replace there aluminum arms with the steel versions to gain reliability. Geometry is the same and the arms are A1 Rabbit pieces.

The limited slip tends to cause understeer in racing conditions and is only really needed if you're running a v8 or a built turbo motor as the 50/50 balance means the rear tires are pretty well planted most of the time.

Original 924 tends to be the most pure driving experience (manual steering, lots of noise/vibration, least weight) and the cars got heavier from there as more and more luxury was added. A 924 chassis combined with an S2 drivetrain and Turbo brakes would be a killer car.

For autocross I maintain that the LSD is a huge advantage for the 944. I've driven open rear 944's and autocross corners are far more likely to cause wheelspin issues, even on good tires.

STAY AWAY FROM THE 2.7. It was a one year only engine and parts are very expensive.

If you have the money, get an S2 or a 968. (Porsches ALWAYS get better with age). If you have even more scratch, go for the 89 Turbo S. It is seriously the BEST Porsche of the 80s...

I've ridden in well set-up 944's at PCA events and they handle amazingly well. There was a 944 Turbo that the old chief driving instructor drove and he and I got into some great on track dices. I had to resort to voodoo to finally beat him. You can see the voodoo in action here:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5tXClMuePc0

Maroon92 wrote: STAY AWAY FROM THE 2.7. It was a one year only engine and parts are very expensive. If you have the money, get an S2 or a 968. (Porsches ALWAYS get better with age). If you have even more scratch, go for the 89 Turbo S. It is seriously the BEST Porsche of the 80s...

Agreed, except the difference in price between the Turbo S and my car is a zero at the end...

Steel arms are early geometry and are NOT interchangable with the late aluminum arms from '87 on.

Expensive jobs are timing belt/water pump (it needs to be done every 30k), clutch and oil pan.

These are solid cars IF they've been maintained and complete wallet busters if they haven't and you're paying someone to do the work.

I've owned two a '88 Turbo S and my current '89 Turbo now with LS1.

They're great cars with lots of parts and knowledge out there. They drive like a much more modern car.

Javelin wrote: For autocross I maintain that the LSD is a *huge* advantage for the 944. I've driven open rear 944's and autocross corners are far more likely to cause wheelspin issues, even on good tires.

Quick question, how were they setup?

docwyte said: (it needs to be done every 30k)

Once more for emphasis!

docwyte wrote: Steel arms are early geometry and are NOT interchangable with the late aluminum arms from '87 on.

Good point, I meant to specify that earlier, but was replying from my phone and it is easy to lose track where you are in a thought.

docwyte wrote: Steel arms are early geometry and are NOT interchangable with the late aluminum arms from '87 on.

Truth. You can only back-date to steel arms on the non-ABS 85.5 and 86 944's.

docwyte wrote: Expensive jobs are timing belt/water pump (it needs to be done every 30k), clutch and oil pan.

+1. If you don't have receipts for timing belts, it is a timebomb. That said, they are not really that difficult to DIY if you have some patience and some tools. I am actually planning on dropping the engine in mine to do the timing belt, water pump, oil pan gasket, all seals, and a clutch at the same time.

turboswede wrote:

Javelin wrote: For autocross I maintain that the LSD is a *huge* advantage for the 944. I've driven open rear 944's and autocross corners are far more likely to cause wheelspin issues, even on good tires.

Quick question, how were they setup?

All were 100% factory stock. I imagine you can tune the wheelspin out of a modified open diff car, but I also think the same car would still be faster with the LSD. Again, this is autocrossing, not track days...

There are lots of 944s out there that have been neglected/trashed one way or another. Mine was "cheap" but I wound up putting 2x the purchase cost into it to get it into trackable shape (haven't done safety stuff like harnesses/roll bar/seats yet). Still a pretty good deal, though if I had fit in a Miata that probably would've been slightly less expensive to get on track.

A pretty capable momentum car on track; rarer than a Miata and with light prep handles about as well as a lightly prepped Miata. Consumables seem be be reasonably priced; about the same as a Miata.

Timing belt every 30-40K water pump every other timing belt change.

I have an 87 924s and it is a hogpog of early and late pieces.

One thing I have always stressed to people is that you don't need the big brake upgrade. Get good pads and make sure they brakes are working properly and you will have all the brakes you need. Handling and braking is where these cars shine. My 924s is my DD (yes even in the winter with snow and it has been a great car. IT is heavy compared to the Honda's and down on power as well making it not as competitive as it once was. Still it is one of the best all around sports cars you can get for the money.

Clarks Garage is another resource. Not as lively as Pelican's board but there is a really good brain trust there as well.