Need Some Advice: Subaru Brake Job Nightmare.

So yesterday I decided to finally to the brakes on my 95 Legacy, which ended up being a rusty, 4 hour nightmare.

After getting everything ready, I put the new rotors and pads on. Even with the pistons fully depressed, I had trouble getting the new pads over the new rotors. On one of the back corners, I had to grind down one of the pads on the pavement to get it to slide over the rotor.

When I was done, I took it for a test drive. It stops perfectly. The problem: the pads are rubbing pretty bad on the rotor, and getting pretty hot. They're rubbing badly enough that the car won't coast down a hill from dead stop, I have to give it gas.

I don't have the money to replace the calipers, if they're at fault. My first though was to put the old, thinner rotors back on, but they're reaaaally bad.

What should I do, GRM?

I'm thinking it's most likely a problem with the calipers...if you're sure you got the right pads and rotors. if the old pads still have some meat on them, drive on those until you can afford new calipers.

Edit: And do avoid driving the car as-is, it would suck to warp your brand new rotors, and you have the perfect setup to do that.

In reply to GameboyRMH:

I've got it parked until I figure this out. The old pads have no meat left, at least on the outside pad of end caliper. Looks like no one has done the brakes in ten years. I had to beat the rear pads out with a hammer and file down the bulging rust on the tabs of the caliper just to get the new pads in.

Basically I'd rather put the old rotors in over the old pads. The front rotors aren't that bad, but the rears are kind of scary looking. Though, I'm unsure if my rear brakes were even working before.

Go back to square one. Redo.

So the wear isn't even on the pads? That points to an issue with the calipers. Sorry.

In reply to turboswede:

E36 M3...

Yeah, on each corner, the outside pad was worn to the metal and the inside pad was 1/2 worn.

Bleh....and it stops so nicely.

This probably doesn't need to be said but I'll say it anyway. Check to see if the calipers are sliding on the pins. That's what centers the calipers on the rotors for even pad wear. Also, some pads have slots or tangs or something that means they have to line up with a groove/slot in the piston caliper. Unfamiliar with Subaru brakes and don't know if they have it. Did learn the hard way that Integra rear have this.

The calipers are not returning after the brakes are released. That's why the outboard pads are worn. You may be able to replace the slides, not sure on these particular calipers. In some cases, remove the bushings, clean them up really well and reinstall them with caliper grease.

In reply to DrBoost:

Rockauto has listings for the pins and guides, so I assume they can be replaced. They do not move easily at all. Al least not with my bare hands. Everything is very rusty.

yep, guide pins are jacked. got oxy-acetylene?

RoughandReady wrote: In reply to DrBoost: Rockauto has listings for the pins and guides, so I assume they can be replaced. They do not move easily at all. Al least not with my bare hands. Everything is very rusty.

they should move VERY easily … either some type of "sandpaper" and smooth them slick, and coat them with caliper grease, or replace

Common problem. Make sure both slides move easily. They can be replaced separately. To be honest, when I've run into the problem I just get a reman caliper with bracket, then just use the bracket and return the new caliper, with old bracket as core. The slides can get so gummed up, it takes a lot of effort get them back to normal. Next important thing, make sure the the thin metal brackets the bad sits in are in good shape. They are cheap, go with new. Next, I've found that you on occasion have to sand the paint off the ears of the brake pad.

I'm broke as E36 M3 this week and just need the car operational. I'm going to try and pull the pins, clean, lube, and reassemble. How much of a bitch is it to get the pins out?

RoughandReady wrote: I'm broke as E36 M3 this week and just need the car operational. I'm going to try and pull the pins, clean, lube, and reassemble. How much of a bitch is it to get the pins out?

Depends.....if they move, it's easy. If they don't move, well it sucks.

Subaru uses the caliper bolts as the sliders, pop the caliper off, pop the boots off, apply hammer, clean, grease, reassemble.

I've seen a bunch of aftermarket pads fit too tightly in the slides and bind. I recommend grinding them down till they move freely and lubricating with brake specific grease.

Thanks for the advice from everyone. I got the calipers apart today (after much hammering), 3 were rusted solid. Everything is greased up and working better. I'm still getting some rub from the right rear, but it doesn't smell and it isn't getting hot. Mostly rubs around corners, not sure what that's about. Probably failing/aging struts or bushings.

If it's rubbing around corners, that sounds like wheel bearings.

Just buy some caliper rebuild kits. Doing calipers (especially the single-piston type) is pretty easy. All you really need is some compressed air, some brake fluid, and some brake lube. Drain the calipers, pop out the pistons, check for rust/corrosion. If there is a lot, get rebuilt calipers (or new pistons). If there's not much, clean it all up with some scotch-brite pads, put in new seals and boots, and reassemble (make sure everything is clean with no debris). Caliper rebuild kits are probably just a couple bucks on rockauto.

In reply to turboswede:

That makes sense. My wheel bearings make a ton of noise. Next on the list, as soon as I can find a press to use.

To Irish:

The main problem with my calipers is how rusty they are. The pistons work fine. I would opt to replace over rebuilding, if I had the money at the moment. Maybe a rebuild would be better if I had a sandblaster.