Need some help with hydraulic throwout bearing

I have a LQ4(long crank) mated to an SM465. I am using a Speedway 3/4 clutch master cylinder and a speedway hydraulic throwout bearing, these are supposed to work as a kit and are supposed to work with an SM465. I have everything hooked up and bled, the pedal feels good and the cluth is working but it is not disengaging all the way. I can see that the friction surface is off of the flywheel but it is still in contact with the pressure plate so I think i need get more travel out of my TOB. I have spent several weekends bleeding and adjusting but I cannot enough travel and after a lot of research I am pretty sure I have everything set right. 

I am trying to find a 7/8 clutch master with 1 3/8"(ish) stroke but I am not having much luck. Any suggestions?

How much free play you you have when the clutch is engaged? How much of your travel it taken up by top pedal?

if you have enough free play, you could make a longer pin to go between the slave and the clutch fork. 

I've also seen similar behavior if the disk is facing the wrong way. 

Clutch disk installed correctly?

Are you 1000% sure you have a long crank LQ4? Those are a lot more rare than the LS swap Facebook groups would have you believe. 
 

Afco is my go to for master cylinders. I have their 7/8" on my truck but unsure of the stroke on it. 

If you have an annular slave cylinder, it must be shimmed out correctly on the transmission.  Kinda fiddly since you have to take into account that the diaphragm fingers will move towards the transmission as the clutch wears, so what may seem perfect when new can hold the clutch slightly disengaged when worn.  (Kind of like adjusting manual linkage)

The REAL fiddly part is getting the slave cylinder to pedal geometry right.  I only did one hydraulic conversion and I think I went through two bad iterations before I got a good one.  Brush up on your trigonometry and your unit circle theory.

Another thing that can cause this problem is a bent clutch disk.  It doesn't take much to cause disengagement issues.  If you are seeing the pressure plate pull off of the disk, you in all likelihood HAVE full disengagement.  The clutch disk isn't going to pull off of the flywheel by itself, but removing clamping pressure will allow it to spin freely (well, vice versa).  If you are seeing the clutch disk pulling away from the flywheel, you most likely have a bent disk.

Without the pedal pressed, how much space do you have from the slave to the pressure plate fingers?

Wouldn't it be easier to size the master a hair bigger and use a pedal stop over trying to track down a master with a specific throw?

Pete. (l33t FS) said:

 

Another thing that can cause this problem is a bent clutch disk.  It doesn't take much to cause disengagement issues.  If you are seeing the pressure plate pull off of the disk, you in all likelihood HAVE full disengagement.  The clutch disk isn't going to pull off of the flywheel by itself, but removing clamping pressure will allow it to spin freely (well, vice versa).  If you are seeing the clutch disk pulling away from the flywheel, you most likely have a bent disk.

Or, as someone else suggested the disc is in backwards.If you can see a gap and the clutch is still engaged somewhere then you've likely got a mechanical issue not a hydraulic one.

Guessing this is a new install.  If used, I would have guessed some of the friction material broke off the disc and has everything jammed up.   

Careful with master cylinder sizing... you can end up with a 200 lb. clutch pedal.   

Two things i learned on the way to the circus.