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ssswitch
ssswitch New Reader
2/3/14 11:19 p.m.

No side effects to pulling the ABS fuse - on most cars it will just light the ABS light up solid. Wheel speed sensors are pretty basic and shared among a lot of the cars - Opposed Forces will help you figure out the part number and interchange, if you don't know about that site's existence yet. I'd just junkyard this stuff, assuming it's not the more common issue of the tone wheels being damaged.

Buy that 1st gen; this is how Subarus get into you. You buy one, then you buy more, then you're suddenly that guy with seventeen SVXes on your property trying to figure out how to adapt a Japanese Liberty RS rear subframe to an '87 EJ207-swapped XT Turbo.

Early closed-deck EJ22 turbos like the first gen Legacy SS are basically invincible, I have seen some severely uninformed people beat on those things with mods upon mods upon hacks and the engines just don't seem to die like their later cousins would've. Overheating is the only thing that really does them in.

RoughandReady
RoughandReady New Reader
2/4/14 12:31 a.m.
Travis_K wrote: Its actually kinda dangerous driving with one bad abs sensor. My dads had a wheel bearing disintegrate and the CV joint kinda ate the abs sensor wire, and without pulling the fuse it would get confused and trigger the abs if you even touched the brakes at all.

That's what I've got going. 2/3 times I hit the brakes the ABS kicks in.

ssswitch wrote: No side effects to pulling the ABS fuse - on most cars it will just light the ABS light up solid. Wheel speed sensors are pretty basic and shared among a lot of the cars - Opposed Forces will help you figure out the part number and interchange, if you don't know about that site's existence yet. I'd just junkyard this stuff, assuming it's not the more common issue of the tone wheels being damaged. Buy that 1st gen; this is how Subarus get into you. You buy one, then you buy more, then you're suddenly that guy with seventeen SVXes on your property trying to figure out how to adapt a Japanese Liberty RS rear subframe to an '87 EJ207-swapped XT Turbo. Early closed-deck EJ22 turbos like the first gen Legacy SS are basically invincible, I have seen some severely uninformed people beat on those things with mods upon mods upon hacks and the engines just don't seem to die like their later cousins would've. Overheating is the only thing that really does them in.

ABS computer didn't flash me anything about the tone wheel, not that I really trust it. I couldn't get the 1st gen for the price I wanted. Seller claimed "collectible." Sureeeee. I'm holding out for a blown up Impreza wagon.

NGTD
NGTD SuperDork
2/4/14 11:55 a.m.
RoughandReady wrote: In reply to NGTD: No horrid side effects besides lacking the ABS I've never had?

Guys do it all the time for navigational rallies. ABS actually compromises braking in snow or gravel, as the build-up of snow or gravel in front of a locked wheel will actually shorten stopping distances.

ABS Idiot light comes on - you can always pull that too, as long as it is not the same light as the brake emergency light.

RoughandReady
RoughandReady New Reader
2/4/14 9:51 p.m.

In reply to NGTD:

Erm....ABS fuse or ABS solenoid fuse?

RoughandReady
RoughandReady New Reader
2/4/14 10:02 p.m.

Okay. Found a clean 97 Impreza Outback Sport. Rust free, looks okay. Few dents and what not. $650. Seller says the center diff is binding, popping and jerking around curves. Says I might be able to remove the rear driveshaft and drive it home. What do y'all think? 650 is a good deal, but I can't really afford the 50 mile tow.

NGTD
NGTD SuperDork
2/4/14 10:47 p.m.
RoughandReady wrote: Okay. Found a clean 97 Impreza Outback Sport. Rust free, looks okay. Few dents and what not. $650. Seller says the center diff is binding, popping and jerking around curves. Says I might be able to remove the rear driveshaft and drive it home. What do y'all think? 650 is a good deal, but I can't really afford the 50 mile tow.

Manual or auto?

NGTD
NGTD SuperDork
2/4/14 10:48 p.m.
RoughandReady wrote: In reply to NGTD: Erm....ABS fuse or ABS solenoid fuse?

ABS fuse

RoughandReady
RoughandReady New Reader
2/4/14 10:55 p.m.

In reply to NGTD:

Auto. Plan would be to just pitch the tranny and center diff and throw a 5 speed in there. Also a 2.2 yay!

Kenny_McCormic
Kenny_McCormic UberDork
2/4/14 11:25 p.m.

If you plan to junk the existing trans anyhow, I bet it would make a 50 mile drive, stick to dirt or straight roads if possible. There's also driving it with two tires on the gravel shoulder if its really bad.

fornetti14
fornetti14 GRM+ Memberand HalfDork
2/5/14 5:38 a.m.
RoughandReady wrote: Okay. Found a clean 97 Impreza Outback Sport. Rust free, looks okay. Few dents and what not. $650. Seller says the center diff is binding, popping and jerking around curves. Says I might be able to remove the rear driveshaft and drive it home. What do y'all think? 650 is a good deal, but I can't really afford the 50 mile tow.

Remove the rear drive shaft and you will not be able to drive it home. You'll lose all the fluid out the tail shaft of the tranny.

The_Jed
The_Jed SuperDork
2/5/14 6:12 a.m.
RoughandReady wrote: Do these Suabrus have rev limiters?

Yep, 6,500 rpm.

RoughandReady
RoughandReady New Reader
2/5/14 4:02 p.m.
The_Jed wrote:
RoughandReady wrote: Do these Suabrus have rev limiters?
Yep, 6,500 rpm.

Hm. I'll have to look into that. Sometimes it feels like it's hitting a rev limit or maybe fuel cut at like 4.5-5k. I don't take it that high much at all, but it wasn't happy the times that I did.

I need to get a scan tool on it. Maybe that'll tell me something. At least why the CEL is on.

Sadly, I've been so busy getting parts out that I've only had time to give the Subi a good was and get that damn Harley sticker off of it. After the was I noticed that the front bumper cover is primer gray. I think the was was at least a $1.75 improvement.

While I'm here, I just want to thank all of you for you advice and the knowledge you've shared with me. Also the warm welcome to the forum. This is probably the best forum I've been on.

Travis_K
Travis_K UltraDork
2/5/14 4:46 p.m.

Is the speed sensor working? My dads has gone through several, and it will cause the same low rpm rev limiter effect if it fails.

RoughandReady
RoughandReady Reader
2/5/14 4:47 p.m.
Travis_K wrote: Is the speed sensor working? My dads has gone through several, and it will cause the same low rpm rev limiter effect if it fails.

Sounds like the culprit to me.

Travis_K
Travis_K UltraDork
2/5/14 4:53 p.m.

Does the speedometer work? If not that's probably it, even if it does work it still could be. Check and see if the sensor is seized too (as in gotten stuck and partly unscrewed itself and wrapped the wires around it).

RoughandReady
RoughandReady Reader
2/5/14 4:55 p.m.
Travis_K wrote: Does the speedometer work? If not that's probably it, even if it does work it still could be. Check and see if the sensor is seized too (as in gotten stuck and partly unscrewed itself and wrapped the wires around it).

It does not work. Really sounds like the culprit now!

RoughandReady
RoughandReady Reader
2/5/14 5:03 p.m.

Jeez, speed sensor is $94. Some of the parts on this car are so expensive. I'll have to go hunting, looks like the manual trans sensor is different from the automatic.

ssswitch
ssswitch New Reader
2/5/14 7:20 p.m.

At least they're shared across basically all Subarus so junkyard hunting is likely to be profitable (focus on cars with a digital odometer). I don't even think the final drive ratio matters; it just picks up a little gear inside the trans.

Be careful when you take it out. Sometimes they're (inexplicably) Loctited in there and then the hammer will have to come out (in a tactical way, try not to break the little gear inside the trans).

Seconding the 4-4.5k is probably limp mode, and the automatic transmission torque bind failure on the 97 OBS (like the one in my avatar, RIP) is probably one of the duty solenoids which is a common failure. There is an FWD fuse on autos but I have no experience with what situations that's supposed to be used for.

VSS removal help: http://www.rs25.com/forums/f8/t140073-speed-sensor-removal.html

Solenoid replacement: http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2501432

RoughandReady
RoughandReady Reader
2/5/14 10:32 p.m.

In reply to ssswitch:

I have a mechanical odo, so should I still look for a digital odo car? My odo doesn't work either, is that run by the very same speed sensor.

ssswitch
ssswitch New Reader
2/6/14 9:29 a.m.

I think only Imprezas with digital odometers have a VSS, but the Legacy has always been a little special (I had a 98 Outback box with a VSS that had a mechanical odometer, I think). The odometer would almost certainly be driven off the same sensor/cable.

On the Impreza they use a speedo cable on the dial odometers but I would imagine that'd be obvious for you to figure out (bright red thick 2-part speedo cable in the middle of the engine bay snaking to the firewall). Regardless, look for cars with a digital odometer to be sure that they contain a VSS.

Hopefully I'm right about only some of the cars having Loctite on the speed sensor because I had to break mine with a hammer.

RoughandReady
RoughandReady Reader
2/11/14 4:18 p.m.

Okay, two questions.

  1. I called up my buddy about the speed sensor in the transmission. He said he's got a blown up 5 speed out of a 93 Legacy chilling in his shop. He said it's got two sensors on it, and they're mine if they'll work for me. He'll give them to me for the low low price of "fo free," so I'm wondering if the 93 speed sensor will swap over to my 95 fine. Not sure, because his was probably OBDI and mine is OBDII.

  2. I finally got a chance between work and snow to go look at the 92 Loyale that I asked everyone about many moons ago. It's sitting with a blown up rear diff. Surprisingly, the damn thing is rust free. It's got a few dents, but it's pretty straight. Engine appears to leak quite a bit of oil (there was like none in it when he cranked it up) and the clutch feels weird (3/4 of the clutch pedal throw is free play, like 3 inches of free play and 1 inch of engaging the clutch). All in all I thought it looked okay, and we shook hands on $300. I'm going to pick it up Friday.

So it runs, tranny seems to shift okay, the rear diff is bad, but not locked up (Grinds a lot). The seller showed me that he can put it in 2WD by pulling a fuse in the engine bay. So do ya'll think I can just drive it home in 2WD? Or should I pull the rear driveshaft or something and drive it home in 2WD? I don't care if the diff blows up on the way home. Seems that replacements abound. There's a Brat and a Leone at the PNP, I think this Loyale has the same R160.

MrChaos
MrChaos GRM+ Memberand New Reader
2/13/14 1:33 p.m.

In reply to RoughandReady:

depends on how far you are going and I wouldnt with the roads around here like they are right now.

RoughandReady
RoughandReady Reader
2/13/14 5:31 p.m.

In reply to MrChaos:

Yeah, not really wanting to do anything until things are at least a little clear. I was out and about today and it was pretty sketchy.

I'm not sure I'll be getting it anyway now. The seller called me today and said be got an offer over the phone for $400 from someone who hasn't seen the car. The seller was beating around the bush about me sort of "upping my bid." I don't play those bullE36 M3 games. The cars been for sale for nearly two months, and the guy wants be to believe people are beating down his door to buy it. Kept talking about all the calls he's gotten when I looked at the car. Yeah...that's why you jumped at $300.

MrChaos
MrChaos GRM+ Memberand New Reader
2/14/14 12:53 p.m.

In reply to RoughandReady:

Tell me about Loyales as a winter beater/rallyx car/autox car? There are a few on cl and I might want one.

RoughandReady
RoughandReady Reader
2/15/14 7:15 p.m.

In reply to MrChaos:

I've never owned one. They just seem quirky, cheap, and fun. I had a thread on here asking about them. Consensus was "SLOWWW."

We should get together an Asheville Area Cars & Coffee or something.

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