New Suburban already broken

So I just went out about 20 minutes ago to play hockey. I decided to take my new to me 04 Suburban that I just bought yesterday. Well about 20 minutes into my trip the ABS warning light, brake warning light, and service brake system display came up on the multi-function display on the dash. The brakes feel fine, and I made the trip back home no problem, but any ideas what could be amiss? I drove it home yesterday from buying it about an hour, another hour showing it off to a few friends, and a short trip of 8 miles or so round trip to get my son from a friends today before this trip when it lit up like a christmas tree.

I know it is a dumb question but I did remove the burned out high-mounted third brake light earlier to test for voltage, and never put it back in place. Could that be a problem? Will a scan tool be able to tell what is wrong? Could the rear axe being recently rebuilt possibly have something to do with it?

How do I head forward with this repair when I just bought it? In MA we have a lemon law even on private sales. If it won't pass an inspection which this won't the seller is liable for it. What should I do?

I would start with replacing that light. With the way the systems are in newer cars the absense of the light even though it was burnt out may be the cause of the problem.

I know that every time I put my 2001 Focus on the dyno the ABS light will come on and stay on for ~3 miles after I get it off the dyno.

The wheel speed sensors in the front hubs pretty commonly go out. That would be my guess.

The "ABS" and "Brake" lights come on periodically in the wife's '01 Burban. It's most likely the ABS module or like Corey said the wheel speed sensors. Ours drives just fine and we aren't concerned about the lights since everything functions as it should.

ABS, traction control... The Jed craves not these things.

I won't be able to get it inspected in MA with these lights on though.

Sounds like a wheel speed sensor problem to me.

If it's the module I'd get the ball rolling on repairs under the Lemon Law.

If I were in your shoes I'd contact whatever authority is in charge of Lemon Law...cases?...and fill them in on the situation. See if you can have it checked out and repaired on the P.O.'s dime since they didn't disclose the problem.

I would start with replacing the light, and then go from there.

16vCorey wrote: The wheel speed sensors in the front hubs pretty commonly go out. That would be my guess.

+1. Below 5-8mph the brakes do NOT work on the effected wheel. What you have to do to fix this is to remove the wheel and rotor, pull the sensor out, file down the rust flat, and reinstall everything back to normal. Lights will go off after you do this.

i'd start by asking the mods to change your thread title to "'04 suburban ABS question" instead of the more inflammatory and GM-hating "New Suburban Already Broken"

Title works. It's a new(to him) Suburban, and it's broke.

It was kind of leading.

keep your eyes on the off-topic section for a new thread titled "Grizz Eats Cock!"

Only for money.

Ranger50 wrote:

16vCorey wrote: The wheel speed sensors in the front hubs pretty commonly go out. That would be my guess.

+1. Below 5-8mph the brakes do NOT work on the effected wheel. What you have to do to fix this is to remove the wheel and rotor, pull the sensor out, file down the rust flat, and reinstall everything back to normal. Lights will go off after you do this.

We see this weekly.

Check your front wheel bearings, it's a sealed bearing and if it gets too much play it will make the ABS light come on. The bearing should have no play at all. The new bearing comes with an ABS sensor.

replace the light.. I had a GM saab that did all sorts of nasty things to the on board diagnostic computer when the 3rd brake light was upgraded with LEDs...

Usually when a braking problem occurs while driving to play hockey it is caused by driving with your skates on. While the skate guards protect the blades and increase the width considerably from the 1/8th of an inch, it just isn't a good idea to try it.

Wait, that wasn't an answer to the question asked, was it?

Mazdax605 wrote: I know it is a dumb question but I did remove the burned out high-mounted third brake light earlier to test for voltage, and never put it back in place. Could that be a problem?

Believe it or not, yes. I don't remember the specifics, but I do remember seeing a GM that would go apeE36 M3 if the third brake light was burned out. I'd think a more modern one wouldn't have this issue, but you never know.

Will a scan tool be able to tell what is wrong? Could the rear axe being recently rebuilt possibly have something to do with it?

A codereader will tell you what the code is. Armed with that knowledge, you can use a scantool to see what the computer is seeing and make a diagnosis, but it won't tell you what is wrong. (Pet peeve: One doesn't just "plug in the thing and it tells you what's wrong")

A question - does the ABS light come on shortly after starting the truck, shortly after moving, or shortly after applying the brakes? Does the ABS ever self-test, and if it does, is THAT the apparent trigger for the light? These things are important, as it identifies if there is a hard wiring or component fault (instant on), a faulty sensor reading (on after moving), a pump assembly fault (on self-test), or the brake light bulb.

Ranger50 wrote: +1. Below 5-8mph the brakes do NOT work on the effected wheel. What you have to do to fix this is to remove the wheel and rotor, pull the sensor out, file down the rust flat, and reinstall everything back to normal. Lights will go off after you do this.

Usually this doesn't cause an ABS light, though, because the computer interprets it as a locking wheel. Usually the only issue is a complete inability to stop.

Usually, you can't get the sensor out, either. For this repair, we ALWAYS put a wheel speed sensor into the estimate. If it comes out, great, but it's not to be expected,

(I love how any statement regarding any kind of diagnosis has to prefaced with "usually" and "generally"... see some WEIRD E36 M3 out there that should not happen, like poor starter grounds on Nissans causing noise in the crank sensor signal which causes the car to crank exactly like it has the timing too far advanced. Or the pushrod Caddy with an oil leak coming from an exhaust manifold bolt.)

AngryCorvair wrote: i'd start by asking the mods to change your thread title to "'04 suburban ABS question" instead of the more inflammatory and GM-hating "New Suburban Already Broken"

I didn't mean it to be GM hating. If that is how you took it then, maybe you have some GM issues. I actually like this new ride so far aside from this issue. It is only my second GM with the first being a 72 Nova. I have no hate for specific brands at this point in my life. If you feel it will help me diagnose it better I guess I could ask the mods, but I think it is a fair thread title.

Knurled wrote:

Mazdax605 wrote: I know it is a dumb question but I did remove the burned out high-mounted third brake light earlier to test for voltage, and never put it back in place. Could that be a problem?

Believe it or not, yes. I don't remember the specifics, but I do remember seeing a GM that would go apeE36 M3 if the third brake light was burned out. I'd think a more modern one wouldn't have this issue, but you never know.

Will a scan tool be able to tell what is wrong? Could the rear axe being recently rebuilt possibly have something to do with it?

A codereader will tell you what the code is. Armed with that knowledge, you can use a scantool to see what the computer is seeing and make a diagnosis, but it won't tell you what is wrong. (Pet peeve: One doesn't just "plug in the thing and it tells you what's wrong") A question - does the ABS light come on shortly after starting the truck, shortly after moving, or shortly after applying the brakes? Does the ABS ever self-test, and if it does, is THAT the apparent trigger for the light? These things are important, as it identifies if there is a hard wiring or component fault (instant on), a faulty sensor reading (on after moving), a pump assembly fault (on self-test), or the brake light bulb.

All I can tell you is I was about 20 minutes into my trip, and probably hadn't used the brakes in about 2-3 minutes when the lights came on. I was on a highway of sorts that had a sped limit of 55, but also a few traffic lights every few miles. The lights didn't come on when I started the truck, but rather well into my trip.

Chris,

get it scanned. You will have to find a shop that has the "really good" scan tool. The basic ones don't do the abs codes.

Your car can pass inspection with the abs light on (I just did it and the guy I use for inspections is a by the book kind of guy.

I am not sure about the brakes light. It may also pass. The check engine and the SRS lights one the big ones that will cause a fail.

Dean

And the ABS can cause a check engine light. BTDT.

What's infuriating is that the ABS can cause the RED (not amber) brake light to come on, on some vehicles. Normally a red brake warning light also causes the ABS to disable (and therefore set the light) but not the reverse. Found that out after doing brake lines on a Dodge van, trying to get the shuttle valve to snap back, because obviously that was the reason for the dashboard Christmas tree, right?

So now I am confused. I got up early this morning, and put the burned out high-mounted brake light back in place, took the truck for a ride and no lights on the dash. Thought well maybe it will come back on again, so I drove over to my friends house that has a really nice professional scan unit. Still no lights. Didn't scan it due to no warning lights. Could it have been that light not being present?