As for suspension, no bandaids or cheap stuff. Stay stock until you can afford what you want.
Header and tune isn't necessary, although the header + E85 tune will net ~30whp and get rid of the torque dip.
If I were you?
Oil cooler Pads/fluid 200TW tires
Done.
(For now at least.)
I agree, which is why I think I'm going to hold off on any suspension items outside of the alignment (so I don't chew up the tires).
But I do need a set of summer wheels since I need to keep the stockers with the all seasons (doesn't seem to make sense to pay 80 bucks to switch tires twice a year when i can get a cheap set of wheels for 300 bucks).
And the header & tune.. well who doesn't want more power? 
I'm currently setting up my brz for C-street autocross, first things on my list having done two events bone stock, is tires and an alignment. I found a set of stock wheels for $100 and picked up some 225/45 r-s4's. Plans for the future will be bigger front sway bar as needed and potentially some koni yellows. The car really performs well in stock form, just lacks in the grip department (damn you prius tires)
I can't imagine an FR-S feeling like it needs better suspension on track, at least not without super stick tires. The car has barely any body roll as it is.
Does the car have an oil temp gauge? If not, oil cooler might be worthwhile since you have no idea what the temps really are.
Don't buy cheap wheels/small tires. That's just a waste of cash. I wouldn't bother with a header/tune.
Spend the money on suspension, brakes and good wheels/tires
Most brake upgrades I've ever done (Stoptech BBK's) have dropped unsprung weight had the proper caliper piston sizing to not throw off bias at all. Most "kits" or BBK's sold are built with that in mind. If you're just grabbing used stuff off random cars and kludging it together you'll have problems.
I would be amazed if a stock engined BR-Z "needs" a BBK - You don't drive a Miata fast by charging into the corners and then smashing the chicken pedal. I would assume it's the same in the frisbie twins. Good pads and good fluid shouldn't fade on stock power levels at most of the tracks I'm aware of (unless this is a known weak point?).
If you want upgrades - go to town - who doesn't love tinkering (that's where a lot of people find the most joy) and I'm not implying the car might not "feel" more engaging with certain upgrades - I'm just answering to the direct question: "FT-86 Track Prep"
If you want to reliably learn your car and (more importantly) your limits - keep it box stock with good pads/fluid/alignment - spend all the money you can on seat time and schools and you'll run circles around everyone else. Track days/HPDE's don't have a class to meet or a trophy at the end of the day. It's about having fun and finding speed.
At Sonoma ~2 minutes is when you are "fast" on the classic configuration.
BBK is not needed, but will save you money in the long term if you track a lot. The ESSEX AP Racing Sprint kit weighs 10lbs less a corner compared to stock....I would wait for the new AP Racing Radi-CAL caliper based kit they are designing though, especially if you need to save up funds..probably going to be a near $2.2k kit.
What is really needed up front on an FR-S that is to see regular track duty is:
This car runs way friggen hot, the engine bay is fully enclosed, aero plates close off the bottom. Easy to see 230F daily commuting...I even had it hit over 240F on some canyon roads, which is when a computer failure started manifesting itself and the car went into limp mode. The clutch fluid needs to be bled twice as often as the brake fluid it seems...transmission gets HOT! Maybe if you are in a cold climate you can get away without an oil cooler, but the oil pressure runs on the low side with this car. You can chance not running an oil cooler...everybody I know who tracks says get on ASAP if it sees regular track duty. It's all about the oil pressure.
Being I'm about to get back on track soon since it's finally fully paid off, I'm about to make my own heat-exchanger based cooler (Laminova C43 core, 182mm length). That should keep the temperature in check enough and has better daily driver benefits along with having a very low pressure drop.
The weak point of a stock 86 is the brake system... better pads suited for track and fluid will help it out, and adding brake cooling would be a good idea as well, but not totally necessary.
215/45-17 track orientated tires will be PLENTY of grip. An 86 is pretty light on its feet and doesn't really need big fat tires...big fat tires can be hard to get up to temp on a stock 86 and will really wreck the unsprung weight. A little more camber wouldn't hurt either, will need to get some camber bolts for that...camber is 0 and not adjustable stock.
That's all I would focus on for now, stock suspension doesn't need to be touched at all unless it is worn out enough and in need of replacement. Toyota/Subaru made an excellent chassis with an excellent suspension stock... it's not a stock miata. My plans once the stock suspension show it needs changing is just for strut and spring replacement, most likely Bilstein B06's and Racecomp Engineering Tarmac springs along with camber bolts.
One thing you might want to look into is how to do the 'pedal dance' or at a minimum, keep the systems 'off' by holding the button down until both the traction and stability indicators are lit ('off'). The systems are never off though with the button press and can re-engage. And 'Sport' mode is garbage on track when you have sticky rubber - will become very annoying, cutting power on you and the ABS system freaking out and pulsating the brake pedal for no good reason. When on track, keep the systems 'off' by either full button press or 'pedal dance' ('pedal dance' is the REAL off setting, and also disables EBFD which is kept on with full button depress.)
One last miscellaneous thing I would highly recommend is solid Delrin steering rack bushings. The stock steering has a weird change/hesitation as you load up the suspension around mid turn in on sticky tires... the stock bushing are frankly garbage specced and allow slop and play and the rack to physically move around quite a bit. What is amazing is how good the stock car feels with those stock soft bushings that have way too much play. With solid bushings the slop and play is eliminated and everthing is very linear in response when turning the wheel, not linear'ish to logarithmic...and you get improved feel. Not an expensive mod either.
Vracer111 wrote: I'm about to make my own heat-exchanger based cooler (Laminova C43 core, 182mm length). That should keep the temperature in check enough and has better daily driver benefits along with having a very low pressure drop.
I like this idea. There's pretty much no downside to an oil / water heat exchanger provided you've got enough radiator capacity to keep coolant temps in check. I've actually got one of that same size Laminova units sitting on my desk waiting for me to put it in the Jeep.
https://jacksonracing.com/product/fr-sbrz-dual-radiatoroil-cooler/
I've got one of these new in the box since I'm taking my BRZ back to stock.
Thanks for the advice, everyone.
Z31 - how much do you want for it?
^Responded to your message with an email, sorry for the late reply.
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