Somebeach (Forum Supporter)
Somebeach (Forum Supporter) Dork
12/22/24 6:16 p.m.

I've gone down a bit of a rabbit hole here, and I searched past GRM posts and have found bits and pieces on ev swaps using a Nissan leaf for a donor car, but not one thread that tries to bring all the info together. So that is what I am trying to do here.

 

As I see it there are two main options to get all the components working outside the leaf.

1. Use the stock leaf parts, and keep all the modules and control units needed to make it work. 
 

2. Use an aftermarket controller to run the required systems. 


 

 

Somebeach (Forum Supporter)
Somebeach (Forum Supporter) Dork
12/22/24 6:26 p.m.

1. Using stock leaf components

This video lays out the minimal amount of "stuff" you would need to keep wired up to retain a running drivetrain.

 

It is for a 2012, most of what I have seen says to use a 2013-2017 leaf. Mostly due to the pre 2013 batteries degrading at a faster/higher rate. And the 2018+ donor leafs being a higher purchase price due to being newer. 

Here is a quote from another forum:

The minimum we have found that works is:

Complete motor stack without AC (harness unmodified) including the park lock actuator.
Main ECU (VCM)
BCM
IPDM
J1772 inlet
Chademo inlet
Water pump
Coolant temperature sensor
Brake pedal switches (not the brake pot)
Accelerator HEPA
Start button and encoder
Two key sensors (both dash area, one above hvac and one in centre console)
Telematics module
Key security module (the bit welded to the dash crossmember)
Two original relay boxes from the engine bay harness
Repackaged HV battery with standard BMS
Heavily modified dash harness (with interior fusebox)
Body harness stripped down to just HV battery comms connector
The key
Prndl (gear selector)
Prndl light
Binnacle lower part

2. It seems there are several options for an aftermarket type controller to be able to set up the leaf drivetrain in another vehicle.

Resolve-ev VCU controller looks like it costs a little under $1,000 and you can buy a wiring harness for it for an extra $700.

https://www.evswapconversions.com/store/p/resolve-ev-vcu-controller
 

 

Zombieverter VCU- potentially cheaper, maybe more difficult to use than the resolve, also may offer more functionality. 

https://www.evbmw.com/index.php/evbmw-webshop/vcu-boards

 

 

 

There are also several options for mating up the motor for the leaf to some different transmission or even some blank options to brew your own adapter:

https://bratindustries.net/shop/

 

 

More power

https://openinverter.org/wiki/Nissan_Leaf_Gen2_Board

I don't really understand how it works, but you can replace a computer board and increase the power beyond the stock 80kw. (up to140kw (or more?))

 

Battery box measurements:


 

Some starting info on inverter swap for more power:

 

wheelsmithy (Joe-with-an-L)
wheelsmithy (Joe-with-an-L) GRM+ Memberand PowerDork
12/22/24 8:45 p.m.

I have interest in all this.

Somebeach (Forum Supporter)
Somebeach (Forum Supporter) Dork
12/22/24 9:01 p.m.

In reply to wheelsmithy (Joe-with-an-L) :

Please feel free to add info or correct as needed, I will try to update the first couple of posts as I learn more to have a easier to use resource.

 

Oapfu
Oapfu GRM+ Memberand HalfDork
1/28/25 6:32 p.m.
Somebeach (Forum Supporter) said:

More power

https://openinverter.org/wiki/Nissan_Leaf_Gen2_Board

I don't really understand how it works, but you can replace a computer board and increase the power beyond the stock 80kw. (up to140kw (or more?))

Questionable ICE analogy: with fuel injection, you have the injectors themselves and you have an ECU controlling the injectors.  The injectors may be physically capable of flowing enough fuel to make XXXhp at 100% duty cycle.  For 'reasons', say the factory ECU never runs the injectors above 85% duty cycle (or whatever).  Some ECUs can be reprogrammed or tuned using software, but other ECUs are locked and you cannot do that.  If you replace a locked factory ECU with an aftermarket ECU, then you can get more power while keeping the original injectors.

The inverter has a sorta-similar arrangement: half of the inverter does the actual power switching to generate the 3-phase AC for the motor, and the other half controls the 'switches'.  There are physical limits on how much current or power the 'switches' can handle before the magic smoke escapes.  Not surprisingly, factory controls are always set with a limit well below that.

The Leaf batteries do not have active cooling.  In order to protect the batteries, the earlier Leaf inverter controls were set with an especially restrictive limit on current, resulting in the 80kW and 250-280Nm output.  As the batteries improved and had larger capacity, later Leafs came with less restrictive inverters.  A newer inverter can be swapped into an older Leaf for more power relatively easily (requires changing some wiring, a coolant hose, firmware, and an electronic adapter thingy).  Yes, it does 'abuse' the older batteries, but probably not thermal runaway event level of abuse.  The next limit on power is a fuse in the battery pack.  24kWh batteries max out at 90kW, beyond that you need to upgrade to a 40kWh battery.

The OpenInverter board replaces the entire "control" half of the Leaf inverter and therefore removes the factory limit on current.  The OI board also adds input/output functions, so it is a VCU as well.

In addition to Resolve and Zombieverter, Thunderstruck/ Dilithium also has a VCU for the Leaf. https://www.thunderstruck-ev.com/dilithium-vcu.html

TLDR on VCUs: make sure to look at total system cost and features/functions, not just the cost of the VCU box itself.

 

The 2011-2012 Leaf looks the same as the 2013-2017 but uses a completely different motor+inverter.

The 2011-2012 motor does have some advantages, and definitely can be used as a donor, but overall I agree that the short answer seems to be "just look for a 2013+".

It's not only the batteries (and you can use other batteries anyway).  More transmission and CV adapters are available for the 2013+.  The Resolve VCU, OI board, and inverter swaps won't work on the 2011-2012.  It is possible to mount the 2013+ inverter beside the motor rather than on top (although the 2011-2012 has a factory cable to make it easier).

 

Indy - Guy
Indy - Guy UltimaDork
1/28/25 8:52 p.m.

In reply to Oapfu :

Awesome information. yes

Thanks.  I keep a casual eye open for one of those at the salvage auction, maybe for a future swap or donor.  What would be a high end of the $$ range and still be "worth it" for one?

jfryjfry
jfryjfry UltraDork
1/28/25 9:37 p.m.

Is there any cost-effective way to add an effective battery cooling system?

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