Well, I'm not really interested in reinventing the wheel. Reading through the FM instructions, it doesn't seem like there's a whole lot of room for less boost if there's too much. The wastegate actuator can be shimmed a little bit. I can certainly reduce the timing. Otherwise, there's just not much in the way of tuning options if it doesn't work out. Not sure if the 10.5:1 pistons are a terrible idea or not?
Berck said:Well, I'm not really interested in reinventing the wheel. Reading through the FM instructions, it doesn't seem like there's a whole lot of room for less boost if there's too much. The wastegate actuator can be shimmed a little bit. I can certainly reduce the timing. Otherwise, there's just not much in the way of tuning options if it doesn't work out. Not sure if the 10.5:1 pistons are a terrible idea or not?
You can swap the wastegate actuator for one with a lighter-weight spring in it that holds less boost, but I don't know if anyone makes one less than the 8-ish that the standard actuators normally run.
If you are concerned about the combustion chamber volume after machining and the effect of that on the compression ratio, you could measure the chambers and calculate the actual CR with the various offerings on the market.
Standalone isnt *that* hard if you end up with no other good options.
Paul_VR6 (Forum Supporter) said:Standalone isnt *that* hard if you end up with no other good options.
There's that. I'm wondering what the total effort lost on trying the 1.8 ECU swap first, and *then* going to the standalone ends up being when it doesn't work. Stuff like the TPS wiring has to get added anyway, but AFM/MAF wiring, EGR wiring and stuff that I'd need to sort for the stock ECU won't be necessary.
People complaining that they've got too much boost for available fuel on the Voodoo box with just an aftermarket exhaust isn't promising for a non-stock high-flow, high compression setup. If high compression on the Voodoo box isn't likely to work, I should probably make the decision to either go with 9:1 pistons or just straight to a standalone rather than waste my time with a unicorn install that's doomed.
If those are the choices, trying to decide between stock ECU reliability/driveability and standalone power/responsiveness is a tough choice.
Its always a bit of a tradeoff. Extreme cold start is the hardest to dial. Usually customers removing idle valves, bigger cams, bigger injectors, e85 all make it a little tougher. 3 season cars aren't too bad.
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