No good deed goes unpunished - Saab C900 timing chain content

Trying to get my C900 back together after burning an exhaust valve. Timing chain was stretched beyond spec, so it seemed like the time to do it. Head is reassembled, so I figured I'd roll in the new chain before the head went back on. Got the chain in without issues, right up until I went to attach the master link. This is not a clip style part, but one that requires (apparently) enormous force to press the end plate on. Well, you can guess what happened next - in an effort to exert said enormous force, the awkward arrangement of tools I was using slipped, and the end plate seems to have disappeared, probably swallowed up by the various folds of sheetmetal that make up the lower part of the engine bay. I was working to the side of and below the level of the block, so I don't think it went down the timing chain well or otherwise into the engine.

Even if I can find this thing, I don't know how to properly attach it to the chain. I'm wondering if it's just easier to replace it with a clip-type master link - ebay has some Chineseum version for cheap enough. What do we think? Use the original, assuming I find it? If so, how? Or just go with the easier clip-type and call it done?

I suspect you'll have to use a chain riveting tool like you would with a motorcycle chain, like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004MS9VTW?tag=duckduckgo-ffsb-20&linkCode=osi&th=1&psc=1

I don't think using a clip-type chain link is that good an idea. If the clip fails is Sayonara engine most likely.

In reply to BoxheadTim :

Well, that seems like it would work. That said, the clip type seem to reasonably well-designed (the decent ones, anyway), so I don't expect that the clip would be particularly prone to failure. This is the type I'm referring to.

That's the clip type I was thinking of - pretty typical motorcycle chain clip, actually.

I don't recall exactly what I did with mine (900 turbo) but I don't remember it being too hard to put the link together. Just slightly annoying to tap on it to peen it out to hold the link. 

Doing some more research on this and, while I can't find direct evidence of failure of the clip type in this application, I also can't find any recommendations for using it. Given the consequences of failure and relative lack of accessibility, I suppose it's not the best idea. So if I rule that out, I'm back to the problem of the missing end plate. Unless it turns up under my pillow tomorrow morning, I'm thinking I'll have to carefully remove one of the plates from the old chain (by grinding off the ends of the pins and driving them out) and use that, as the link itself doesn't seem to be available separately.

As far as the tool options, some seem to be suggesting using two hammers, one as an anvil and one to seat the plate and then peen the ends. I'll probably try that first before I spring for the motorcycle chain tool.

Where are you located? I have one of the motorcycle chain tools you'd be more than welcome to borrow, but shipping it back and forth would be a good portion of just buying one, so... your call.

02Pilot said:

As far as the tool options, some seem to be suggesting using two hammers, one as an anvil and one to seat the plate and then peen the ends. I'll probably try that first before I spring for the motorcycle chain tool.

That sounds about like what I did. 

In reply to dculberson :

Thanks. I'm in NY (state, not city). I appreciate the offer, but as you say, the shipping makes it less than ideal. Going to try the hammer method first, then make decisions as necessary.

If you buy a tool, but the Japanese DID one

D.I.D. chain riveting tool

I have installed plenty of motorcycle chains and this one is the best in my opinion. 

Looks like shipping my tool would be about $8 each way. I paid $50 for the tool but it's $42 on Amazon now. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004MS9VTW

Assuming you can find the plate (keep looking with a magnet and light!), maybe freeze the chain, heat the plate to get it together? Does it have to be dome in situ?

It has to be done in situ; otherwise I'd have to pull the engine, and that's not happening. I was into every nook and cranny with a light and a magnet yesterday and I couldn't find it. I'll give it another look today, but I think it's gone. I should be able to harvest a plate from the old chain without too much difficulty. If the hammer method doesn't work, I'll see if I can figure out to heat the plate and position it without melting off my fingertips.

In reply to 02Pilot :

Limit your plate heat to about 300F. I know this seems low, but some of the alloys used in these applications get sticky between there and the 700 or so that causes loss of strength. It is so small and hard to handle even cold I am dubious of the value

Minor success, but major failure still possible (likely?). Went back out to the car this morning armed with a variety of flashlights and probes, and finally managed to locate the missing plate wedged between two power steering hoses, just above the lower control arm mount. Tried the hammer method without success - it's just too unstable without a way to hold the chain in place. So, new plan: get the head on, then use the cam sprockets to hold the chain while I fix the link in place. That's the theory, anyway. I'll still try the hammers before acquiring more tools.

dculberson, even with the shipping being less than expected, I think that if I need the tool I should probably buy one. If nothing else, I'd hate to break yours while wrangling with this thing.

In reply to 02Pilot :

I'm right there with you on the tool. In fact I haven't used mine for like 5 years but am still hesitant to let it go. I like having tools on hand. :)