In reply to The Hoff:
Anti-seize is conductive and makes heat transfer better imho.
A little duct tape wrapped backwards (sticky out) around the head of the screwdriver will help it grab if needed.
Amazing how many loose spark plugs I have found in over 50 years of wrenching, including my recently purchased NB. Attended a spark plug seminar by Champion engineers about 25 years ago. They showed results of under torquing or loose plugs. They also stressed cleaning plug area before removing them, inspecting threads and seat area and using a good torque wrench.
outasite wrote: Amazing how many loose spark plugs I have found in over 50 years of wrenching, including my recently purchased NB. Attended a spark plug seminar by Champion engineers about 25 years ago. They showed results of under torquing or loose plugs. They also stressed cleaning plug area before removing them, inspecting threads and seat area and using a good torque wrench.
What's the recommended cleaning method BTW? I saw somethinf about compressed air.
In reply to Coldsnap:
I just use a quick shot of air to blow away anything that may fall into the hole.
I have always put antiseize on plugs and never had a problem. I have had trouble getting out plugs without antiseize so I figure it's cheap insurance to not have problems pulling them out of a head.
This is as easy as it gets. The piece in there should (and sounds like it does) just unthread easily.
Get it out, (if a finger will fit in there that might be enough!) put a new one in and move on!
I wish my stuff would break like that :)
Btw, a 1/2 turn on a snug item is a lot of torque, even with a crush washer. Not that it's too much, but it's a lot
kb58 wrote:spitfirebill wrote: Good luck with the EZ out. I don't think I've ever gotten anything out using one.I have
I have too. I did a tune up on an F150 with a 5.4 last year. 150k miles, and the rear 4 plugs had never been replaced. All 4 of those broke much like the OP's did, with the porcelain coming out. It was a long afternoon, but I got all 4 out with an EZ-out and breaker bar. That Volvo head looks a lot easier to work around than the back end of a 5.4 mod motor valley.
I also have never used a torque wrench on plugs, and always use antiseize, even when the manufacturer recommends against it, and never had a problem from it.
In reply to Coldsnap:
Did I read correctly that you got it to turn a bit already? I'd bet the EZ out will spin it out quickly from this point.
I've probably changed over a hundred of those NGK plugs. Always used a torque wrench, never have had a problem. I've always threaded them down by hand first.
I thread down by hand first untill seated. I have never used a torque wrench. I also always use antiseize. And never had a problem.
GRM to the rescue. Brett_Murphy was able to get the thread out with ease. I got lucky! Whew, car is running again and I've learned a lot of new things.
The best lessons are the ones that start with a string of profanity.
Congratulations on getting it out.
In reply to kb58:
Or what size torque wrench? A 1/2 or 3/8 drive torque wrench won't do 6 ft-lbs with any accuracy.
Congrats. I like to tell my customers that anything can be fixed. Glad it wasn't as bad as you thought.
The recovery went about as well as it could have. It did rain on us a little bit, but given how muggy it was today, we probably would've sweated as much as we got rained on. Great meeting you, Coldsnap.
Contrary to the thread title, I think you and Brett_Murphy have done an awesome thing.
My young eurotrash sparkplug experience involved a Peugeot 505GL, original plugs, a breaker bar, and two helicoils. When I was done, I had two new sparkplugs left over.
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