I know it's better to drain the oil when warm, at least that's the "conventional wisdom".
But what if the car hasn't been started/ran in a few weeks? Is it better to start the car warm it up and wait a bit for it to settle back in the pan, or just go ahead and drain it while at room temp (should be about 75 today).
I'm sure in reality it's not a huge different either way, just curious what you guys think and why.
I'd go either way. Timewise, You could warm it up to get it to drain nicely, or you could just leave the drain plug out for the same lenght of time, and wind up with the a similar result.
I would run the engine up to temperature for two reasons:
With todays muti viscosity oils , it really does not make a huge difference. With warming the oil, you will need to wait up to 15 minutes for all of the oil to drain back.
If the oil is at operating temperature, it is HOT and realy smarts when it hits unprotected skin.
Also, since the car isn't my daily driver....hell it's still on jackstands from installing the Frog Arms yesterday.........I can pull the plug and let it drain for however long I feel like.
propane torch
+
Oil Pan
=
Hot Oil/Profit! 
In reply to iceracer:
That's how I've always done it. I don't like getting burned. Any contaminants that would be suspended in the oil, are suspended when it's all at the bottom of the pan.
Also, many of your premium oil filters come "pre-lubed" as far as the gasket is concerned. I still oil mine though.
So sounds like there is no reason to open the garage up to run the car for 15-20 minutes just to drain the oil.
i always do an oil change after going for a 10 mile or longer drive.. the oil runs out so much better, and the hot oil only burns for a second ad you pull the drain plug out of the way. just don't drop the drain plug in the drain pan if you don't have a magnet to fish it out, because that hot oil is no fun when you have to stick your whole hand in it for 5 or more seconds to find it...
To me it doesn't matter, JUST CHANGE YOUR DAMN OIL!!!! 
Yeah, I'm going to change the oil and not the filter. The oil in there only has about 400 miles on it, but half of those were at the track. And it's just standard Castrol GTX, no fancy synthetics.
By the end of the 2nd day, still holding good/ok oil pressure when warm, but noticeably less than when the oil was new. So figured wouldn't be a bad idea.
Rmember: It was hot when it all drained into the pan. Just pull the plug. But always change the filter.
Woody wrote: Rmember: It was hot when it all drained into the pan. Just pull the plug. But *always* change the filter.
What would be the problem with leaving the filter on with a short service interval?
I've got another filter already sitting in the garage, so it's not a big deal, just curious about your thoughts on it. As I do plan on using the same GTX 10w-30 as is in the car now.
filters are cheap, change it
^Money is not the issue.
What I'm asking is, if the oil/filter is usually good to 3k miles, why is just changing the oil with less than 400 miles necessitate a filter change.
In reply to z31maniac:
It wouldn't have had enough time to get dirty with less than 400 miles. It wouldn't be an issue I wouldn't think.
I am not BoostedBrian wrote: In reply to z31maniac: It wouldn't have had enough time to get dirty with less than 400 miles. It wouldn't be an issue I wouldn't think.
Unless the old oil/sediment has opened up the filter bypass valve, making that old filter simply a reservoir. You don't know what kind of deposits that last 400 miles stirred up, why find out the hard way? Also, using the same logic of all the particulate settling in the oil pan, guess where else it will settle? The filter. Which will go right back into your engine with be new oil...
I'd just put a new $3 filter on, but hey, it's your $1k engine...if money isn't the issue, why the hell are you even thinking about it? I tend to sway towards the non-destructive option, given a choice.
It frustrates me how cheap-for-being-cheap's-sake some people are...then claim "money isn't the issue." Can't have it both ways 
Woody wrote: Rmember: It was hot when it all drained into the pan. Just pull the plug. But *always* change the filter.
Yeah, the "drain it when it's hot" only makes sense if you're using 70 straight-weight sludge where you need to cut it with scissors.
Although, I don't change my filter every time. For one, it's a PITA because of where the filter is. For two, I generally don't have oiling system problems. For mainly, my oil service interval is when the oil is 1qt overfull due to fuel dilution. This generally takes about 1000-1500miles. The oil's not dirty, it's just fuel contaminated.
Actually, I've been kinda bad. My car went 2500mi so far on its current oil. The oil is really far up the dipstick now, and leaks out of the front crank seal when I brake.
(I think my VW is 10k on its current oil filter. I add a quart every 300 miles or so, then I drive it until the oil light comes on when turning, then I add three quarts. It's like changing the oil without pulling the drain plug, right?)
Knurled wrote: Although, I don't change my filter every time. For one, it's a PITA because of where the filter is. For two, I generally don't have oiling system problems. For mainly, my oil service interval is when the oil is 1qt overfull due to fuel dilution. This generally takes about 1000-1500miles. The oil's not dirty, it's just fuel contaminated. Actually, I've been kinda bad. My car went 2500mi so far on its current oil. The oil is really far up the dipstick now, and leaks out of the front crank seal when I brake. (I think my VW is 10k on its current oil filter. I add a quart every 300 miles or so, then I drive it until the oil light comes on when turning, then I add three quarts. It's like changing the oil without pulling the drain plug, right?)
I randomly cut open used filters to see what kind of material/ debris is caught in the pleats, more so after a HPDE.
I'd have oil analysis done every 10K or so also. For less than $30 it's cheap insurance.
.... or am I being anal
Sorry, should point out, two different cars.
The VW is a transportation appliance that is getting a new engine Real Soon Now, so I'm just sort of seeing what I can get away with. It's unencumbered by compression or valve stem seals. I feed it whatever the cheapest oil is at the gas station, or sometimes ATF. Sometimes the oil drained out of the other car, if I have a container for it.
The other car is rotary powered and the engine is about 3800mi old. It gets fed 15W50 synthetic from NAPA or Agip, depending on how much I have stocked up from either. Very tight side seal clearances, but it still dilutes the oil like crazy. Wants to idle and light cruise at 11-12:1, and it misfires half the time besides. The EPA has pictures of my car on their Wanted list....
Now. How many people use compressed air to blow the oil out of the oil passages and oil cooler, if they have one? Anybody besides me?
SlickDizzy wrote:
Ha ha ha ha - this cracked me up.
SlickDizzy wrote: Unless the old oil/sediment has opened up the filter bypass valve, making that old filter simply a reservoir. You don't know what kind of deposits that last 400 miles stirred up, why find out the hard way? Also, using the same logic of all the particulate settling in the oil pan, guess where else it will settle? The filter. Which will go right back into your engine with be new oil... I'd just put a new $3 filter on, but hey, it's your $1k engine...if money isn't the issue, why the hell are you even thinking about it? I tend to sway towards the non-destructive option, given a choice. It frustrates me how cheap-for-being-cheap's-sake some people are...then claim "money isn't the issue." Can't have it both ways
Love it when people willfully misunderstand a question so they can have a snarky reply.
It's not about being cheap-for-cheap's sake, you must have me confused with other people who post on this board. I abhor that attitude and the self-righteousness that tends to accompany it.
If you'll notice I said I was curious.
Me thinks you need to pour yourself a drink and relax.
I like my oil change interval. My car burns about 1qt every 600-700 miles. Cheap oil, a Good oversize filter, change it every 5K, and top it off as needed, sometimes with a new/used mix if I'm really low.
z31maniac wrote:SlickDizzy wrote: Unless the old oil/sediment has opened up the filter bypass valve, making that old filter simply a reservoir. You don't know what kind of deposits that last 400 miles stirred up, why find out the hard way? Also, using the same logic of all the particulate settling in the oil pan, guess where else it will settle? The filter. Which will go right back into your engine with be new oil... I'd just put a new $3 filter on, but hey, it's your $1k engine...if money isn't the issue, why the hell are you even thinking about it? I tend to sway towards the non-destructive option, given a choice. It frustrates me how cheap-for-being-cheap's-sake some people are...then claim "money isn't the issue." Can't have it both waysLove it when people willfully misunderstand a question so they can have a snarky reply. Me thinks you need to pour yourself a drink and relax.
Ugh, I need to stop posting from work; no offense or judgment was meant. I would just go ahead and change the filter, though. But, it's your pair of dice to roll.
Believe me, I DO need to relax with a drink, but I'm only six hours into this eight-and-half-hour shift...
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