ok ricey or not

cut hole in hood + add window AC unit = problem solved.

What about putting the monstrous speed6 hood on it? I am not sure if it would fit, but it is ducted to carry enough air to feed an inter-cooler.

This is your daily driver? A fair bit silly if that's the case, if you ask me.

I wouldn't be trying to put a hood scoop on it, would look gawdy on such a nice new car.. why not look into heat barrier solutions, like DEI's gold intake heat reflective wrap, or a phenolic intake spacer/ heat barrier.

http://octanereport.com/tech/2010/04/25/tested-dei-reflect-a-gold-thermal-heat-barrier-tape.html

the intake manifold is plastic.... the intake wrap im not sure will make much of a diff considering overall underhood temps.... new car???? its 8 years old with 150k on it. ... speed6 hood will not fit without speed6 fenders afaik.

What brand is the CAI and how is it routed?

You could build an intake box out of aluminum to insulate the intake from the heat. Even cardboard will work as a temporary solution (I think GRM and/or SCC did this once). It won't do anything to reduce intake outlet temperatures but it could help with intake inlet temperatures. Here's an example of one that would fit the Cobb SRI on my Mazdaspeed3:

http://www.corksport.com/corksport-power-series-cold-air-box-for-the-cobb-sf-system.html

What again are you trying to accomplish? I thought you wanted to reduce intake air temps, but it sounds like you want to reduce engine compartment temperature. While related, these are two different things.
If your intake air temp increases from the inlet to the outlet, then absolutely insulation will help! The only place the intake can pick up heat is from the engine or fan blast. Insulating it from this heat WILL reduce the surface temp of the intake tube, but like I said before, it may or may not have a significant effect on air temps. If it doesn't, then your're wasting your time making changes, if it does, then insulate the tube. If your engine temp guage is normal, then your engine is at a normal temp. This is pretty simple stuff. I'm really not sure what your're expecting to accomplish if not this.

injen. one 70 degree bend and then an 80 down into the fender i believe.... pretty much as direct to the fender as possible. intake inlets are not really a problem...... in the tube the maf sensor is reading only 4 or 5 degrees above ambient..... its the air inside the intake mani that is reading way too high!!!! and is evidenced by the fact that spraying water over the intake mani will make the af mixure go .3 to .4 richer with no change in the readings from the maf sensor temp.

KATYB wrote: injen. one 70 degree bend and then an 80 down into the fender i believe.... pretty much as direct to the fender as possible. intake inlets are not really a problem...... in the tube the maf sensor is reading only 4 or 5 degrees above ambient..... its the air inside the intake mani that is reading way too high!!!! and is evidenced by the fact that spraying water over the intake mani will make the af mixure go .3 to .4 richer with no change in the readings from the maf sensor temp.

Wrap the intake tube with insulation. Problem solved.

does not solve the incredibly hot intake manifold tho. im looking to cool it.

which in theory adding a scoop over it will do especially since it only has about 1/2 to 3/4 inch clearance to the hood or it seems deff less than 1.5 inches..... more air around it should help.

KATYB wrote: does not solve the incredibly hot intake manifold tho. im looking to cool it.

Your orignal post didn't say anything about the intake manifold, only the tube, so that's the question I'm answering. If you can significantly reduce the temp pickup in the tube, it will also benefit the intake manifold, obviously.

Plus eleventy billion on intake wrap! I've owned several cars made much happier in warm weather with nothing more than a $.30 tin foil wrap.

Cone_Junky wrote: In reply to KATYB: Only ricey if it doesn't function

LOOKS ricey, but if it functions, its... OK?

Try and get a nicer scoop on ebay. Bolt it on. Here, lets get you started.

linkarooni

SuperEdit: Or just raise up the back of the hood a little. It will let some heat out.

KATYB wrote: which in theory adding a scoop over it will do especially since it only has about 1/2 to 3/4 inch clearance to the hood or it seems deff less than 1.5 inches..... more air around it should help.

In theory it may do nothing at all. It all depends on the air pressure in your engine compartment and the location of the scoop. You can't just put it somewhere and expect to have air go in it.
Listen, I don't know much about a lot of things, but I do this for a living and I know what I'm talking about. The lab I run is equipped with a wind tunnel large anough for Class 8 trucks. I have a Capacity terminal truck with a Navistar engine in it right now evaluating cooling and air conditioning performance. Do you want help? If so, listen to what I'm saying. What is the air temp in your intake manifold? If you don't know it, you don't know it's abnormal. What symptom is it causing? If none, then you don't have a problem. If there is a symptom, what is it? You need to find the root cause, not stick a hood scoop on it to attempt to cover it up. The heat in the intake tube or manifold comes directly from the engine. If there's a large amount of air temp pickup in the tube, then insulating it will benefit it and the intake manifold to some degree. If the intake is still too hot, then there's a problem with the engine, since that's where the heat comes from. If your engine temp is normal, then you don't have a problem. If you insist on cutting holes, you'll be far ahead cutting a hole for hot air to escape versus an intake scoop. Positive pressure means air wants out, not in.

-1 on the scoop.

like i said i removed the rubber seal at the back of the hood. that left a 1/4 inch gap. if i find a hood scoop it will be one that compliments the look of the vehicle... otherwise ill end up out there with sheet metal and a welder making one that does.

You removed a seal. That doesn't mean you don't have a positive pressure in the engine compartment while moving down the road. In fact, its highly unlikely that you don't.
Do you understand how air flows over your car? I'm not sure how you could without a wind tunnel. The scoop must be placed where it gets ram air or it won't do a thing. Remember that scoops on engines have the suction of the carburetor or throttle body to pull cold air in. You don't have that.
So that's it. I give up. You seem hell bent on putting a scoop on, so go for it.

and again functional scoop on srt8 magnums and chargers.... not pulled by carb and yet there for functioning purposes of cooling the motor...... and figuring out where air is flowing and where its not is not all that difficult to figure out by simply using piece of felt lightly glued on..... positive pressure under the hood is not something i have. not that difficult to use a map sensor and record underhood pressures and find there is negative pressure in the engine compartment however it is positive in the wheel wells and behind the front bumper. and the coolest place in the engine compartment is behind the drivers headlight most likely due to un interupted air flow.. again i generally put alot of math into the things i do on a vehicle before doing them. and alot of research. your right i am not an engineer i dont do school well. so yes placement of scoop would be in the flow of air over the vehicle and funneling directly onto intake manifold, would most likely creat positive pressure in the engine bay which considering is open underniether should not be a problem. im hell bent because everything outside of a intake tube wrap has been changed..... but im skeptical of this making a differency based on research done before in finding out what kind of intake i wanted.... and decided on cai do entirely to how it ran at high rpms where as a short pipe gave great throttle response on the low end due to the placement of the maf sensor. the cai allowed the power to be built later in the rpm band and pull hard all the way to 7000 rpms where as with the short pipe it would drop at 66 or so.... and intake temps were around the same at that time. i have been playing with my air fuel ratio lately and that is when i discovered the strange changes. which then corresponded with installing an air intake sensor in the plenum to see what was going on there. and as the temp rises af ratio goes richer big surprise thinner air. well this is only a problem because i can either tune it to run properly now or i can tune it for winter and just run rich all summer. which is not something i want to do.

Not to change the subject but KATYB is now a HalfDork... congrats

2 piece manifold? Maybe a phenolic spacer? Between the upper and lower. And some coating on the actual manifold to reduce heat conduction.

Why can't the ECU compensate for the difference in temps? The little bit of tuning I've done, looks like you can set A/F and all that against temperature, timing vs temp.

Another thing to consider is the time it takes for the temp to drop after sitting still. You have to also remember that there is a lot of heat coming from the block, and new engines run rather warm. 150 doesn't seem too bad.

it is a 2 piece manifold . upper is phenolic as a whole. ... ecu can not compensate because ecu uses the ait in the maf. i am taking these readings from inside the actual plenum instead. so ecu does not compensate because it is outside of the ecu sensors.

im not concerned about engine running temps. its just that it throws off my tune

To add to the argument, functional hood scoops are simple to make and don't really mean much other than to say you have a functional hood scoop. Makes it sound more hotrod and faster.

Personally, the wrap is cheaper to do than cutting a hole in the hood and doesn't hurt to try it before something is done that is more difficult to reverse. I've had some success with wraps. Besides, they are cheap, simple, easy to do and easy to undo. The real GRM way.

KATYB:

I'm not trying to be argumentative, but Bravenrace is right. I realize a lot of what he is saying is getting lost in the translation in the engineerspeak.

The conditions you are describing regarding the underhood pressures are highly unusual.

Additionally, you are adding some information that is a little difficult to analyze. You are concerned about air temperature, but you have added a temperature sensor inside the intake plenum, which is unusual and difficult for people to relate to. Temperatures are generally referred to as intake air temperatures, or cooling water temperatures. Most tunes are based on these 2, not plenum air temp.

Considering the operating temperature of the engine is between 200F and 250F, 120-150 at the intake plenum doesn't seem very unusual.

If you cut in a hood scoop, you would be asking ambient air of 105 to cool air that is only 120 now. That's only a 15* difference.

Your 200+ engine is sitting in your engine bay and the intake pipe is passing through it. There is nearly a 100 difference between the ambient air and the engine temperature.

Heat moves from warmest to coolest, so it is VERY logical that the intake is absorbing heat from the engine bay. Insulating it will keep it closer to the intake temperature of 105*.

Is there a reason to not try the insulation?

does your intake use any sort of "water heating" for icy conditions. A lot of newer cars have a water line into the intake and TB to keep them from icing up in winter weather. You can unhook and join the line to itself to keep things a bit cooler.