On the quality of comparative brands of replacement suspension and steering components

I love thread titles that read well.

So I tore into the front suspension on the project truck (1972 GMC longbed V8), and I need stuff. At a minimum I need:

Upper and lower balljoints on both sides
Dampers
Inner and outer tie rod ends (and probably sleeves)
Steering int shaft

I have not decided if I need/want to replace the cross shafts yet. I know it will need rotors eventually, but let's leave that alone for now.

No dinero aqui, comprehende? I also don't want to buy crap. I typically stay with AC Delco or Moog in a situation like this (GM vehicle, important suspension stuff that can kill you). My Rockauto cart (which is cheaper than the Amazon cart sans shipping, so it's very close) is too pricey for me right now. What brands are OK? What brands are crap that will kill me and my loved ones?

Here are my picks so far:

MOOG Part # ES403L
MOOG Part # ES415RL
MOOG Part # ES2004S
MOOG Part # K6117T
MOOG Part # K6124
KYB Part # KG5409

What say the hive mind?

I came to suggest Moog, you already checked that box.

I used Mevotech and Deeza parts from Rockauto. I was quite happy with the quality of both brands.

Not much advantage to Moog these days. I've stopped using them and use Mevotech now. As a bonus, they seem to use the same part numbers, so that's fun.

And they're way cheaper. No inordinate failures across 5 different cars in 5 years.

I have had 2 moog ball joints get sloppy last year on teh race car. Cheap ones that came off were good for 2 years.

I vote NOT moog right now (also, they didn't include the hardware like the description says should be with it).

Rob R.

If you want OE quality, buy them at the GM dealer, although I'd bet they aren't the same as the ones installed at the factory.

15 years ago, I was in a small shop near a taxi outfit. They had to have the cars inspected annually, and most of the Impalas/Caprices they ran would get about 300,000 km out of the original ball joints, if they were serviced regularly. After the first change, they wore out every year. Moog, or Sealed Power, or whatever. Didn't matter.

I run moog. Has always lasted longer than cheap parts house crap. Never ran mevotech though. Moog has always been cheap enough on rock auto (20-30 a piece) in everything Ive needed for me not to want to experiment to save 10 to 15 dollars.

I had Deeza balljoints on a Miata fail after 1 track day. Went with Mazda after that.

I've been hearing mixed stuff on Moog lately too(and had a set of control arm vertical bushings I bought in 2010 separate in 2 years), but I don't hear anyone suggesting better stuff. Of course, nobody knows how to run a grease gun these days, and most Moog stuff has zerks. I don't think anything RA will sell you is going to suddenly snap and kill you though.

1/2 ton 2WD right? If so, email incoming soon...

Moog often has zerks. Whether or not the balljoint that takes the zerk actually has a hole, or the hole is actually tapped for said zerk, has been an entirely different matter in the last couple years. Garaithon on here and I saw with our own eyes three bad Moog balljoints in a row for his PT Cruiser. Really annoying.

In reply to Javelin:

You got it. Moog is not required, but non-crap is. I suspect you know better than me.

In reply to Swank Force One:

wow

You probably won't see this brand on rockauto, but I've had good luck with them:

http://www.sankei-555.co.jp/

GameboyRMH wrote: You probably won't see this brand on rockauto, but I've had good luck with them: http://www.sankei-555.co.jp/

Where be to buy?

I find their stuff at little independent parts stores, they make steering and suspension parts.

555 is available at NAPA's nationwide under the Altrom line. Unfortunately, only for import brands. VERY high quality. Their US Rep is hilarious, and very knowledgeable.

Ok, essentially moog, which I cannot afford, is no longer the gold standard and the only reputable company is not available for my car. The cheap Rockauto stuff is "ok" but not much else.

I am pretty sure that I canno afford the GM dealer approach. Did I miss anything?

Nope. Welcome to servicing cars made over a decade ago!

Dirty secret: I'm to the point where i just put the cheapest E36 M3 on the MX6 and replace it every two years whether it needs it or not. Tie rods and loaded control arms every two years.

To Mevotech's credit, nothing has failed spectacularly. The boots are usually bad after two years, but the joints are still good, no extra play. My car is REALLY hard on that stuff due to some really atrocious geometry angles from me lowering it MUCH too far.

Don't care. Looks cool.