opinions on fram oil filters

what is it about oil filters that makes car guys argue so damn much and even resurrect 2 year old threads to continue the argument?

that being said, i've had engines that had bad lifter ticks for many miles over many oil change intervals when they were running the cheap Fram filters from WalMart that didn't have lifter ticks after putting a Wix/NAPA Gold filter on with the next oil change.. i witnessed a 5psi increase in oil pressure on my 70 Nova when going from a Fram HP filter to a regular NAPA Gold filter, and the oil stayed cleaner looking longer, too.. other than needing to get a car running at 3am when WalMart is the only place to get a filter, i can think of no good reason to ever run a Fram filter in anything.. same with air filters- compare a Fram air filter to a Wix air filter for the same application and you will wonder why anyone ever runs the Fram except to save some weight..

novaderrik wrote: what is it about oil filters that makes car guys argue so damn much and even resurrect 2 year old threads to continue the argument?

Based on your post, you seem qualified to tell us

i switched to Fram and my mileage immediately dropped from 25 to 15, my sex life became non-existant, and I was audited by the IRS.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kX0xrqvlsNI

I do 10k OCI with Mobil1 and an OEM Toyota filter. The difference between $4 and $6 isn't worth it to risk cheaping on the filter every 10 months.

Just satsify your own mind guys.

Go buy a Fram.

Then go buy the same filter from Wix, AC Delco, Purolator, any of the quality brands.

Cut them both open and see how you feel.

I avoid Fram filters on my customers cars, sometimes it's all I can get since Fram is the only one that still lists some applications.

Shawn

a401cj wrote: i switched to Fram and my mileage immediately dropped from 25 to 15, my sex life became non-existant, and I was audited by the IRS. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kX0xrqvlsNI

That's not the filter's fault, it's because you drive an AMC

I used to buy Fram filters because I didn't know any better. I buy mostly Purolator now. Honestly, my cars never blew up because I ran Fram filters, and they don't seem to run any different with Purolator filters. I think rather than filter brand, regular oil and filter changes might be the key here, no?

on my Integra and Honda I generally run an OEM filter

the Impreza gets Wix... Gates (when I can find them) NAPA (gold or silver) ///whatever is on sale at O'Reilly's / Advance when bundled with 5qts of extended life oil... ( as long as that bundle isn't Fram)

I haven't read any of this thread except for the first few posts because this topic pops up every so often usually along with Mobil 1 motor oil. Likely a good amount of folks (like me) have used Fram filters for years and never had any problems and some will post that theirs or a friends or a friend of a friend used Fram filters and their entire engine exploded ect. because of it. Ditto Mobil 1. Then someone will show results from tests proving that they perform at the bottom level of filters and so on. Always Fram and Mobil 1. Hmmmmm.

See you in a few months for the next posting on Fram filters,

1988RedT2 wrote: I used to buy Fram filters because I didn't know any better. I buy mostly Purolator now. Honestly, my cars never blew up because I ran Fram filters, and they don't seem to run any different with Purolator filters. I think rather than filter brand, regular oil and filter changes might be the key here, no?

no, that is not the key here..

i've personally owned cars that had higher oil pressure and less weird ticking noises after changing the oil with the same brand and using a Wix/NAPA Gold filter in place of the Fram that was used up to that point. this is a fresh oil to fresh oil comparison, not old oil to new oil.

after seeing this on a few different cars was when i decided to stop buying Fram filters when i'm in Wal Mart at 3am and just wait for NAPA to open up the next day and spend an extra dollar or two.. but i still get the oil at Wal Mart at 3am because Mobil 1 is Mobil1 and Delo is Delo and Rotella T is Rotella T no matter where you get it, so i might as well save a few bucks..

When you're in WallyWorld at 3am, or any other time, look at their house brand "Supertech" filters, which are made by Champion Laboratories (also makes K&N, Mobil1, some AC, some Bosch, STP among others)... They are cheaper than Fram, and are pretty decent quality.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=337041

RUN AWAY FROM STP FILTERS!!!!

I have had nothing but troubles with them on my 924s. They were on sale a while back and I got three of them for $10. Resulted in very poor oil pressure after a very short period of time due to the internals of the filter failing. The final straw was when all of a sudden I was getting a horrible humming rattling sound coming from my accusump and my oil pressure was very low at idle. Being the typical owner of an old porsche I immediately suspected

A. #2 rod bearings

B. Somthing in the head / timing belt / water pump.

Turned out that the STP filter I had had literally imploded and was trying to suck its self out of the housing. Further inspection found that the rattling noise that was in sync with my rpms was the drain back valve rattling around in the filter.

That was / is the last time I will use an STP filter.

For the Porsche I have resorted to the Mahle filers as I can not find a parts store that sells any other brand for them locally.

Any vehicle of mine that has a Fram oil filter on it, gets the filter changed as soon as possible. Never had a bad experience, but don't wanna take a chance. I owned a Tacoma that had a Fram on it, and when I changed the oil, the filter felt like it weighed twice as much as it did new. When I went to drain the filter, no oil came out. So either the filter trapped the oil, or it had been way too long between intervals for that truck.

I've used STP filters on cars before with no problems. But they cars have mostly been domestic. On a foreign car, I'd use a Bosch filter.

My filters of choice nowadays are K+N, and Bosch, although my Neon has a "Mopar" filter that I grabbed at Walmart and my gf's car has a Mobil-1 on it cuz it was on sale with the oil at the local parts house.

I have used Fram filters in the past with no problems, but Ive read about Fram filters on Miatas and I'll never use one on mine. I use only K&N or OEM Mazda filters. Frams are really not the best filters out there. There's no anti drain back valve and I'm not gonna take any chances with my car. yeah, I may spend a little more, but I'd rather have the peace of mind.

dean1484 wrote: For the Porsche I have resorted to the Mahle filers as I can not find a parts store that sells any other brand for them locally.

most don't stock, but all NAPA's can get in a short time, the Mahle, Mann, and Bosch oil filters for 924's.

I get them on line when ordering other things. The NAPA in my area seems to be very expensive.

dean1484 wrote: The NAPA in my area seems to be very expensive.

They are supposed to be. Given each one is a "franchise". But I suspect that because you are not XYZ repair facility, your store owner says to the general public you are going to pay the maximum allowable. My NAPA store here sells to me parts at nearly the best price possible. It is still a little bit more then the fast food auto parts places, but I know I won't have to worry about replacing it in 6mo either.

As to the original question, if I can't get it in OEM flavor, my Dakota and F250, or NAPA Gold/ACD, wife's Av and MIL's Imp (run the same filter on both even though the books say different), I don't run anything else. Now if a friend wants an oil change done, I tell them OEM or Purolator.

dean1484 wrote: I get them on line when ordering other things. The NAPA in my area seems to be very expensive.

they gotta see your face a lot before they start giving you good deals.. i've also found that NAPA employees tend to give you good deals when you buy a lot of parts from them for oddball cars...

I don't use fram but my dad used to on his toyota's. He's never had much issues but than again he never pushes his cars hard and religiously changes the oil every 3k miles. I personally won't use them anymore because of the small amount of filtering material it has and it ability not to increase oil pressure like other filters. But if you change your oil regularly and treat your car as an appliance than I don't see it hurting much.

I personally will use OEM (insert manufacturer), NAPA, K&N or Bosch filters. It helps when you can buy the filters in a bundle. It's cheaper in the long run.

My beef with FRAM is that up until 7 or so years ago the filter they made for VW's (rabbits, golfs, jettas..ect) did not have a check valve. Not that it was a crappy check valve that didn't work well or anything it simply didn't exist. A FRAM equipped VW would have an alarming lifter rattle for the first few minutes on cold starts.

FRAM chose to ignore a pretty major specification in filter design. What else would they ignore?

When I was signing papers to buy a new 1.8T Jetta wagon in 2003 I was bored and flipping through paperwork and on one of the warranty papers was mention that use of a FRAM filter would void the factory warranty. That is pretty condemning stuff.

I hadn't bought a FRAM since 92 or so until I added the filter relocation bits that required a FRAM HP1 "Race" filter. I felt dirty exchanging cash for something that color orange. It has had no issues though.

Fram race filters are Fram filters are supposed to be made. But even then, I went to NAPA and got their version of the HP6....

Anyone every have a Fram filter that the seal split in half after it was installed? It's a smooth cut like a second seal on the seal and it's thin. I checked the seal on the old filter I just took off. It's on the old filter. I double checked the filter base on the car before I installed this one. It's like the seal was double cut at the factory. The bad filter doesn't have enough ring to seal without the second ring. This is defenently a factory issue.

Necrothread again! I used to run Frams but after the BITOG comparo I switched to Bosch (made by Champion Labs). Sure they are more expensive but ya know what? If it's a difference between paying another $3 for an oil filter or spending a minimum $2k for engine repairs that $3 seems dirt cheap. I have been known to use the Wally World Super Tech oil, it seems to be just fine.

The Jensen gets a Wix or K&N because of the superior quality oil drainback valve. That's very important on those because of how high on the engine the oil pump is mounted. No drainback valve = nasty knocks when starting. It also gets Castrol 20W50 because of its ZDDP content.

I'm of the opinion that Fram's bad reputation on the internets is probably somewhat justified, but not to the extent that some people take it. I mean, millions of people who don't read automotive forums still use the things every year without a problem. Having said that, I don't run them, simply because I usually have 3-4 other brands to choose from at any given store, so why take the "chance" even if it's a tiny, miniscule chance, as I think it is. My preferred brand is usually just the OEM for whatever car it is, followed by Wix or Bosch or Purolator or whatever.

Lately, I've taken to ordering filters in bulk online. I just got a batch of them for the truck and the Taurus on eBay. About the same price as the store, but it saves me a bunch of trips, I figure, and I always have one when I need it.

novaderrik wrote: they gotta see your face a lot before they start giving you good deals.. i've also found that NAPA employees tend to give you good deals when you buy a lot of parts from them for oddball cars...

Not to add to the necro of this thread.. but the napa near me offers discounts for cars over 25 years old..