Paint questions? Help needed

So I am working on painting my motorcycle. Long story short I am doing full color change from red to yellow. I am borrowing a buddies compressor and HVLP, but he is unavailable for me to ask questions, so here goes.

Questions:

1. I have sanded all the plastic parts down with 400 grit. I also have 800 and 1500. Do I need to sand down with the 800 and 1500 prior to primer and paint?

2. What do I wipe the parts down with prior to primer? Acetone?

3. If going to yellow does the primer need to be white?

4. Gas tank is metal, and unblemished except for sticker residue, do I need to sand the tank with 400, 800, and 1500?

5. I'm not going for perfect, just better than pink, paint recommendations?

6. And last one but anyone on here a automotive painter and want to hook a GRM brother up? I have all the parts off and can ship. PM me if interested.

7. Thanks

400 is OK, but 600 would be better. Wipe down with prep sol or whatever your paint place sells. Don't use acetone. That stuff eats thru everything. I've had good luck with the paint NAPA sells. Just make sure the primer, paint are compatible. My race car is yellow and I've always used grey primer under the paint with no problems.

If its high build primer, then no, because you're sanding most of it off. If its just primer to give the paint something to bond to, and there are no low spots to be filled, then use the 800.

Your plastic parts should be primed with a plastic primer. NAPA should have it in a spray bomb for convenience. As was stated, 600 grit unless you are using a high build primer. Allow plenty of flash time between coats. One of the biggest causes of paint issues is not enough flash time.

Here is my recipe:

down to bare metal (plastic)

Epoxy prime- then scuff with scotchbrite pad (brown)

Any filler work that needs to be done gets done on top of the epoxy primer. Flatten/shape the filler with 40 grit and finish with 80 grit. I am for 3 go-rounds with the filler to get it right.

high fill spray on polyester primer (featherfill)-sand this to 280 grit to level and a final coat with 400 to smooth.

Sealer coat of primer. Sand with 400 to flatten and remove scratches and finish with 600 wet

Wipe down with wax and grease remover.

Be paranoid about dust at this point. Tack rags are your friend. Better to vacuum than blow dust at this stage.

Spray color

Tack rag between coats

Clear.

Color sand.

Understand that coarse paper makes things flat. Fine paper makes things smooth. Change paper often; worn out coarse paper just smooths out the surface of the waves, does not take the tops off. I have seen a lot of shiny paint jobs that wave as I walk by.

Never sand by bare hand, always use a block. I like the durablocks and have like 20 shapes and sizes.

Squirting the paint on is the easy part. It is actually hard to berkeley this part up and if you do you just scuff and re-shoot.

Did I mention that painting is a E36 M3-load of work that requires a lot of patience and money?

Thanks guys. Looks like I will be back to sanding again tonight. I think I am getting sanding elbow...

NOHOME- so tank to bare metal too? If so is sand/media blasting the best method to strip the tank?

I got one quote to prime and paint all the parts for $350 is that about average?

octavious wrote: Thanks guys. Looks like I will be back to sanding again tonight. I think I am getting sanding elbow... NOHOME- so tank to bare metal too? If so is sand/media blasting the best method to strip the tank? I got one quote to prime and paint all the parts for $350 is that about average?

What I describe is my ideal process for a car restoration that you want to have around for decades. Body-shop work is aimed at the five year or less market.

Sand it as far down as you feel comfortable. I like to know what I am building on. Some people feel that factory paint&primer is a good base as long as it is scuffed down smooth and clean before building back up.

$350 is not a bad price when you look at the work and materials that are involved. I bet what they will do is scuff the thing, shoot paint on it and be done. May or may not prime. I mean, how good does this have to be and how long does it have to last? If less than five years, then shoot and go is the answer.