Berk it dude. Plasti-Dip.
Berk it dude. Plasti-Dip.
Appleseed wrote: In reply to Cotton: Dang. How often are you painting your cars?
Looking back I've averaged two a year for the past few years, which doesn't sound like a lot, but cleaning out a bay then building up and tearing down a temp paint booth each time gets old and time consuming. Right now I have four I'd like to paint. If I had a real booth I'd probably prep and paint one every month or two, but trying to do that in a temp booth, with my current layout, is just way too much of a pain in the ass.
In reply to TeamEvil:
Your clearcoat activator helps determine your dry time. For instance normally you want to use a fast activator in colder temps, but you might want to use a medium, or mixture of medium and fast to get the right mix for your conditions and needs. You can mix up a small temp batch and spray a test panel to try and get it right.
Screw spraying.
In reply to ddavidv:
It works. Enjoy sanding.
TeamEvil wrote: You guys seem to have some knowledge of painting cars, and more importantly paint cars at home. Can anyone suggest a base/clear system that would allow for a nice slow base coat to be layed down? One where the metallic paint can be put down nice and thick and allow for enough time between base and clear to sand out any debris that might have fallen into the wet paint? A system that provides a clear that remains wet enough that the first area painted will still be wet enough to accept a partial over-spray when the painter returns to it after doing the rest of the car. So MANY of the current clear coats set up and dry SO quickly, that when the spray "cycle" is completed, the first section painted is nearly dry to the touch. If anyone knows of an amateur-friendly paint system, PLEASE post the name/manufacturer. Something that goes down slow and easy and welcomes touch-up during the initial painting process would be terrific ! Thanks—
Most paints that I have used or looked into have a generous "Open" time where they will accept new coats. 24 hours seem to be where the limits are for many paints.
Ooh, ooh. Pick me! I worked at a body shop for a few years, and prepped my E30, then had them spray it.
I'd suggest doing it yourself or finding a friend of a friend of a friend that owns a shop. Or, if you're out of options, Maaco can do a great job.
NOHOME wrote:TeamEvil wrote: You guys seem to have some knowledge of painting cars, and more importantly paint cars at home. Can anyone suggest a base/clear system that would allow for a nice slow base coat to be layed down? One where the metallic paint can be put down nice and thick and allow for enough time between base and clear to sand out any debris that might have fallen into the wet paint? A system that provides a clear that remains wet enough that the first area painted will still be wet enough to accept a partial over-spray when the painter returns to it after doing the rest of the car. So MANY of the current clear coats set up and dry SO quickly, that when the spray "cycle" is completed, the first section painted is nearly dry to the touch. If anyone knows of an amateur-friendly paint system, PLEASE post the name/manufacturer. Something that goes down slow and easy and welcomes touch-up during the initial painting process would be terrific ! Thanks—Most paints that I have used or looked into have a generous "Open" time where they will accept new coats. 24 hours seem to be where the limits are for many paints.
I thought he was talking about an issue where, by the time you're finishing up a coat, the overspray doesn't melt into the rest and creates a dull finish. I've ran into that before with large cars, like my 4 door 72 LTD, when I was right on the edge of the clear activators temp range. I mixed in some of the next level up activator, which took care of the issue.
"I thought he was talking about an issue where, by the time you're finishing up a coat, the overspray doesn't melt into the rest and creates a dull finish."
Exactly. Between the orange peal resulting from having to heavy coat the flats, and the dry powdery effect resulting from not making it round the car in time to blend the paint into itself plus the wrong clear coat meant for spot repair rather than shooting the whole car, the resulting finished job was spotty, blotchy, and inconsistent. Wet sanding the finished results cause some sand through and made things worse when re-clear coating.
Looking for a more forgiving system or a few tips to make the newer paint systems work better for home use.
Hoping for so empirical knowledge. Someone who's go through these problems and come out the other end with a solution.
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